What distance do you zero at?

[Coyote Hunter]

I understand the principle, but the problem is that most people will use that to have the exact same poa pretty much everywhere within 300 yards, and then limit their range to that.  Where they should know AT LEAST at 100 yard increments, and realistically at 50 or smaller yard increments the exact drop that they are going to experience with their bullets. 

I agree people should know the trajectory of their bullets, but don't much care one way or another what "most people" do.  They can fail to adjust with a standard-type zero as well as with a MPBR zero - and probably do.

[SHOOTALL]

that's the difference between a rifle shooter and a rifleman ! IMHO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Fat NDN]

Thanks to everyone for the info. I am going to zero the 270 at 250yds. because it has a mildot scope one it and that range
works out good using the mildots at different yardages. The 30-06 I am going to zero at 200yds. On paper it looks good.
But, at the range I may change everything after shooting a few.

[Don Fischer]

I understand the principle, but the problem is that most people will use that to have the exact same poa pretty much everywhere within 300 yards, and then limit their range to that.  Where they should know AT LEAST at 100 yard increments, and realistically at 50 or smaller yard increments the exact drop that they are going to experience with their bullets. 

I'm curious. If you are aiming at the center of the chest of a deer at any range within MPBR and the bullet hits 3" high, do you really believe it will make any difference?

[IOWA DON]

For a deer, antelope or coyote gun I zero for a maximum bullet rise above the line of sight of 2.5 to 3.0 inches. With my 6mm-06 or 7mm STW they are "dead on" at 300 yards and only about 7 inches low at 400 yards. As far as the bullet being not exactly "dead on" at distances other than 300 yards, no problem. I know the trajectories of all my rifles. I knew the trajectory of my 7mm Weatherby I bought when I was 15 years old, which was 43 years ago. Every time I shoot I think about trajectory and wind drift. For rimfire rifles or for my .17 Hornet which I use for much smaller animals, I zero for a maximum rise above the line of sight of 1.0 inch. Again, I think about trajectory and wind every time I shoot. For example, during the past week I shot two squirrels off my bird feeder with my 124 FWB pellet rifle. It is zeroed "dead on" at about 30 yards so is about 3/8th-inch low at 10 yards, the distance to my bird feeder. I did not center the cross hairs on the squirrels' heads. I aimed the cross hairs almost at the top of their heads. I think if one tries to account for trajectory every time he shoots, eventually it will become second nature, even under extreme excitement like when one sees the biggest buck in the county.

[Lead Poison]

I zero all my centerfire deer rifles (7mm-08 up to 7mm Remington Mag) to hit 2" high at 100 yards. I've killed deer out to 250 yards.

[Slamfire]

I use the MPBR sighting with an 8" trajectory pipe. My .270 zeros at 25 and 275 yards. It's 4" low at 325, and anything farther away is aimed at with the bottom post of my duplex reticule. That's figuring a 3100 fps muzzle velocity. For every 200 fps more or less you gain or lose 25 yards. 

[IOWA DON]

An exception to my maximum 2.5 to 3.0 inches higher than line of sight is for my .338-.378. The main crosshairs are zeroed at 300 yards so the maximum rise is about 3.4 inches. That is with a Nosler Accubond bullet at 3,330 fps. The dots below are for 400, 500, 600, 700 and 800 yard points of impact. Premier Reticles modified the Leupold 4.5-14X scope for the range compensating dots according to output from my balistics program. It works real well at long range but the scope must be on 14 power for the reticle to work right.

[vicar paul]

2 inches at 100 metres is fine for my 7-08, 270, and 7 mag. They will all be on at 250 yards, and that's good enough for me, using 140 grain NP's for the 70-8 & 270, 160 grain NP's for the 7 mag...always worked fine for me

Paul