What distance do you zero at?

[Fat NDN]

I am working loads for a friend. A 270 Win and a 30.06. At what distances should I zero at? The 270 I'm using 230gr Hornady SST and on the 30-06
I am using 165gr SST.

[flintlock]

I sight my .243 in 2 1/2 inches high at 100 yards...She is dead on at 250...

[Davemuzz]

What part of the country do you live in and at what distance is a "normal" shot that you will use this gun for shooting game?

Dave

[Zachary]

I am working loads for a friend. A 270 Win and a 30.06. At what distances should I zero at? The 270 I'm using 230gr Hornady SST and on the 30-06
I am using 165gr SST.

I've never seen a 230 grain bullet in a .270 before.  Must be one heck of a bullet.  I reckon you meant 130.

All of my rifles are zeroed at 100 yards, which has me just fine for shots from 50 to 200 yards.  Anyhow, 95% of all my shots are between 50 to 125 yards.

If I ever hunted out west for mule deer, antelope, etc., then I would zero at 200 yards.

Zachary

[Fat NDN]

What part of the country do you live in and at what distance is a "normal" shot that you will use this gun for shooting game?

Dave

I hunt in Arkansas in bean fields where it is not uncommon to have a 300 to 400yd shot, but most are at 100 - 200yds.

[jvs]

Even though most shots in my area rarely exceed 75 yds, I always sight in at 2 inches high at 100 yds for .308 and .30-06.  1 inch high at 100 yds for the .35 Remington.  Dead on for Black Powder.

When I get the 6.5 mag up and running, I will probably sight that in at 2 inches high also.

With a 4 inch kill zone, 2 inchs high and 1 inch high fits nicely at effective distances for the calibers I shoot.

[Davemuzz]

It looks like a 2.5" high sight in at 100 yards for the 270, when using a 130 grain bullet, will get you at zero at 200 yards, and this will drop 33" at 400 yards. I used the balistic calc. on handload.com for this with a MV oc 2850. If these numbers are wrong......someone will surley correct them.

The Hodgdon web site doesn't have a 230 grain bullet load for the 270.

Dave

[Graybeard]

I use one of three sight ins for rifles depending on which rifle and what the expected maximum distance of shot might be.

For the majority of my hunting 100 yards would be a long shot as you just can't see that far in the areas I've hunted most in. I like to be in thick cover. If I know that's the kinda cover I'll be in then my sight in is for dead on at 100 yards. That way I can "thread the needle" if need be at any range I'm likely to see game to get the bullet to where it needs to be.

My other two sight ins are for +1" or +2" at 100 yards. If I feel the max shot distance might stretch to 150-175 yards then I mostly use the +1" which allows dead on holds with rounds like the .270 Winchester to those ranges and if I'm hunting in more open terrain where long shots might be presented I sight in 2" high at 100 yards and use a rangefinder to determine actual distance and hold accordingly.

More game is missed by shooting over than under due to the way folks sight in their rifles. They sight in to be able to hold on way out there at 300-400 yards "just in case" they get a long shot and then forget to hold under when that fast close up shot is presented.

I also keep my scope turned down to 3x or at most 4X for the close shots that don't give a lot of time for thinking but only reacting and then if a longer shot is presented I figure I'll either have time to change it or if needed can just take the shot at that magnification and I have in the past. I think I've actually turned up the scope magnification on perhaps one or two shots in my entire hunting career the rest have been taken at the lower power I leave my scopes set on. I've never felt handicapped by that.

I believe in being prepared for what I expect to be the most likely scenario and adjusting as needed if something different is presented.

[Dave in WV]

I zero my rifles at 50 yards.. That puts me a little high at 100 yards. The ranges are usually short here and sometimes you have to pick a shot through brush.

[High Brass]

One inch high at 100 yards and then check POI at 50 and 200 yards.   This puts me dead on or less than a 1/2" high at 50 and about 2 inches low at 200 with my guns.

[beemanbeme]

Where I hunt it's kinda wooly so I sight in dead on at 100 yards.  And I've re-learned the value of 2.5 and 3x powered scopes. 

[Davemuzz]

I believe in being prepared for what I expect to be the most likely scenario and adjusting as needed if something different is presented.

That's always the best "plan of attack". I write the ballistics (the bullet drop) of each of my rifles on a reloading label with a Sharpe marker, and stick it on the rifle stock. (Rain doesn't wash Sharpe ink away). Then I have what yardage the gun is zeroed at, and what the drop is on the bullet out to 400 yards. It's a rare shot where I hunt that I would get a 400 yard shot, but it is possible. (I did have one last season).  Most of my shots are 100 yards and under.

Dave

[corbanzo]

I zero at 150 yards, and that is usually where I target shoot at.  Keeps my shots at further distances better with longer range practice.

[jhm]

Generally sight them in at 100 yds. however I have the ability to go out to 880 yds. just to play around, we watch the deer at up to 1000 yds come into our hunting blinds, however shots are usually in the 150 yd. range.   JIM

[mudstud]

I don't hunt beanfields, but I do hunt in open country, where a 200 yard shot is considered a chump shot!  My typical hunting rifles are 7mmRM's, 7mmWSM's, and 264WM's.  My method is to work up loads etc. at 100 yards, then sight in 2" high at 100 yards, then VERIFY at 250 yards, as I want a 250 yard zero.  That 270 with the 130 gr. SST's should have a trajectory very much like those cartridges I hunt with, and I do recommend a 250 yd. zero for that rifle.  At 400, just lay the crosshairs on the deers back, and squeeze it off!  Voila!  Dead deer!  I very much dislike a zero that shoots very high at closer ranges, but with flat-shooting rounds, a 250 yard zero is very practical.  The 30-06, I don't know about.  I don't shoot the old '06. 

[corbanzo]

The "old" .06 as you say shoots just as fast as your 7mag with the same grain bullet. 

A 250 yard zero with it is very practical. 

[NONYA]

200

[EsoxLucius]

Generally, 3" high at 100 yards yields a 6" diameter maximum point blank range (no more than 3" high or low to that distance) in all of my rifles.

[mudstud]

corbanzo,
No disrespect intended for the 30-06!  It's just that I don't shoot a 30-06.  The 270 Win, on the other hand, I have shot in the past, even tho I am not currently using one.  Also, many of my hunting buddies use the 270, so I am familiar with the capabilities of the 270.  Having said all that, there is no doubt in my mind that a 30-06 with 165 gr. bullets would work fine with a 250 yd. zero.

[SHOOTALL]

have you heard of a point blank sight in ? you sight in so you can hold center for the kill zone of the critter you are hunting . Say a 6 inch circle

[Don Fischer]

have you heard of a point blank sight in ? you sight in so you can hold center for the kill zone of the critter you are hunting . Say a 6 inch circle

I didn't want to mention that. Some people go nuts over MPBR even tho it lets you get all the cartridge has to give up front. I the thick stuff, were I to stay in it, I think I'd go with 100yd also, I don't get in and stay in.

A 270 with the 130gr SST at 3100fps sighted in MPBR with a 6" target will be +2.5 @ 100, +2.3 @ 200, -2.7 @ 300. Zero will be at 259 yds and MRT at 150 yds. Thats 3" hight @ 150 yds.

It looks like a 2.5" high sight in at 100 yards for the 270, when using a 130 grain bullet, will get you at zero at 200 yards, and this will drop 33" at 400 yards. I used the balistic calc. on handload.com for this with a MV oc 2850. If these numbers are wrong......someone will surley correct them.

The Hodgdon web site doesn't have a 230 grain bullet load for the 270.

Dave

At 2850 that data might be right but you'd have to load the 270 down to get it.

[SHOOTALL]

shame !

[Davemuzz]

At 2850 that data might be right but you'd have to load the 270 down to get it.

Yeah....I was just "glean'en" information from the web for the 270. I don't own the round and have never shot it. I figured if I threw out a few numbers, a more knoweldgeable 270 "die-in-the-wool" guy would come along and set it straight.

Dave.

[Rangr44]

I sight in 2" high @ 100yds, with both the .270 & .30-06,  then verify POI @ 50, 200 & 300yds.

The "point-blank range" concept works for me.

That said, most animals I've taken (in about 43 years), have been at an average range of less than 100yds - much less.

[FourBee]

A scoped .270 firing the 130gr. factory load at a MV of 3140fps  zero-d in at 25 yards Point of Aim (POA) will -----
                                 send them 3" high at 100 yards
                                        about 4" high at 200 yards
                                       on the button at 275 yards
                                   and about 2" low at 300 yards.

The .30/06 POI of the 150gr. first crossing the line of aim at 25 yards, is almost 3" high at 100 yards
                                                                                                      a bit over 2" high at 200
                                                                                                      again on the button at 250

[SHOOTALL]

most of mine have been under 50 yards , but many were at running deer and getting it in the center of the scope is much better than trying to hit a hold over or under and keep on target when things get busy !

[corbanzo]

I am not a fan at all of point blank sighting in.  If I have a gun I'm going to hunt with, I want to know exactly where it is going to hit at any range.  If I take a shot, and it is 5" off, then I consider my shooting off, even if it is way out there.  

I wont be aiming just for the "kill zone" on an animal.  I will be aiming for a certain crease on the hair where I prefer to shoot, and at the range I am shooting, I want to know exactly how high or low I need to place my shot.  IF you shoot your hunting rifle as much as you need, and at different ranges, then you will know what those differences are.  

[SHOOTALL]

well if you sight in point blank , which gives the most bullet path in the scope in the kill zone and you see where the bullet hit is for each distance say 100 yd , 150 and so on , AND LEARN your rifle and bullet , if ya do all that then ya should be able to knock a tick off a deer at at any range !
i guess some folks just have to pick the yardage even if it causes them to not get the most out the rifle scope combo ! no one said you couldn't draw down and take fine aim !

[Coyote Hunter]

I am not a fan at all of point blank sighting in.  If I have a gun I'm going to hunt with, I want to know exactly where it is going to hit at any range.  If I take a shot, and it is 5" off, then I consider my shooting off, even if it is way out there. 

I wont be aiming just for the "kill zone" on an animal.  I will be aiming for a certain crease on the hair where I prefer to shoot, and at the range I am shooting, I want to know exactly how high or low I need to place my shot.  IF you shoot your hunting rifle as much as you need, and at different ranges, then you will know what those differences are. 

I don't think you correctly understand how Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR) zeroing works, or at least not how it CAN be done.  I zero all my rifles for MPBR for a 6" diameter target so the bullet is never more that 3" above or below line of sight from the muzzle to MPBR.  If I'm 5" off the target its not because of the zero method.  Further, I know the bullet drops because I verify it out to 400 yards, which is as far as my rangefinder goes.  My range has just been reconfigured and I'll be checking drops out to 600 yards.

MPBR zeroing is no different zeroing for any other range except in the manner in which it is defined.  For example, take a .300 Win Mag with 180g TSX bullets (B.C. .453) at 3038fps (my load).    If you zero for 200 yards the trajectory is something like this:

200 yard zero (+1.5” @ 120 yards,  -3” @ 258 yards)
+1.4” @ 100
+0.0” @ 200
-6.4” @ 300
-18.6” @ 400
-3.6” @ 500

If you zero at 250 yards (+ 2.8” @ 145 yards, -3” @ 298 yards):
250 yard zero
+2.4” @ 100
+2.0” @ 200
-3.3” @ 300
-14.5” @ 400
-32.5” @ 500

And if you zero at 300 yards (+4.5” @ 165 yards, -3” @ 338 yards):
300 yard zero
+3.6” @ 100
+4.3” @ 200
-0.0” @ 300
-10.1” @ 400
-26.9” @ 500

All of these give you a know trajectory, with varying amounts of mid-trajectory bullet rise.  I prefer to use MPBR for a 6” target which means the bullet never rises more than 3”.  That looks like this:

6” MPBR zero (256 yards zero, 301 yard MPBR, +3.0” @ 150 yards, -3.0” @ 301 yards))
+2.6” @ 100
+2.3” @ 200
-2.9” @ 300
-14.0” @ 400
-31.9” @ 500

To zero for MPBR zero range works out to be (256 yards in this example) is no trick, just look at the drop for 100 and 200 yards and adjust the scope accordingly.   With this load, zeroing for 200 yards is just like MPBR zeroing for a 3” diameter target, zeroing for 250 yards is like a 5.6” MPBR zero and  zeroing for 300 yards is like a 9” MPBR zero.

Again, there is no real difference in the two methods.

[corbanzo]

I understand the principle, but the problem is that most people will use that to have the exact same poa pretty much everywhere within 300 yards, and then limit their range to that.  Where they should know AT LEAST at 100 yard increments, and realistically at 50 or smaller yard increments the exact drop that they are going to experience with their bullets.