Author Topic: Another loading procedure question (Read 1090 times)

Kansas Boomer · « **on:** March 22, 2006, 06:23:47 AM »

My cannon (1"bore) uses #11 caps for ignition. There for I can't prick a foil bag of powder, the hole in the nipple is just to small. Will drilling the hole larger cause problems? I put powder down the barrel with a dowel and an open top tray. I always wait at least 5 minutes between shots. This loading procedure has caused no problems. I just HATE it. Every time I do it I can just see that rod exploding out of the bore. I wear heavy gloves, and never get in front of the cannon. Would like to try the foil loading method. Any sugestions? Boomer

Double D · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2006, 07:55:27 AM »

Drill the nipple out for a vent pick.

GGaskill · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2006, 08:58:43 AM »

Drilling a #11 nipple isn't going to leave much of the top to squash the caps against. Maybe replace it with one for a musket cap which is larger and would allow a larger hole while still reliably firing the caps.

Blaster · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2006, 02:55:38 PM »

Quote from: GGaskill

Drilling a #11 nipple isn't going to leave much of the top to squash the caps against. Maybe replace it with one for a musket cap which is larger and would allow a larger hole while still reliably firing the caps.

This is what I did too. A musket cap drilled out to the point where a very stiff copper wire can pierce the foil ctg works out real well. I have been told that a musket cap will also furnish more reliable fire to the powder than the #11's anyhow.
IMHO.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2006, 02:59:57 PM »

Quote from: Kansas Boomer

My cannon (1"bore) uses #11 caps for ignition. There for I can't prick a foil bag of powder, the hole in the nipple is just to small. Will drilling the hole larger cause problems? I put powder down the barrel with a dowel and an open top tray. I always wait at least 5 minutes between shots. This loading procedure has caused no problems. I just HATE it. Every time I do it I can just see that rod exploding out of the bore. I wear heavy gloves, and never get in front of the cannon. Would like to try the foil loading method. Any sugestions? Boomer

When loading the 155, after firing the breech would be left open and the #1 cannoneer would take a wet sponge and swab the chamber and first few inches of the bore and the obduration seal on the face of the breech block. Then came loading the round and the powder and closing the breech block and priming.

That's my experience; I assume there's a similar procedure that can be used in swabbing the bore of a blackpowder muzzle loading cannon. With my 4.5" bore mortar, I just reach inside and sponge it down.

Kansas Boomer · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2006, 04:11:37 PM »

Drilled the nipple out to the same size all the way through ( 5/64"). That is the size of the hole at the top of the nipple. The cannon lock works fine with that size hole. Fired about a dozen caps through it today. Must the prick be made from copper or brass, or will steel wire do? How many times should I prick the foil? Will a wire that will fit through a 5/64" hole make a large enough hole in the foil bag? Boomer

Charcoal Burner · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2006, 05:14:33 PM »

My .02 cent, I would stick with a brass vent pick,,the purpose of the brass or copper or bronze pick is to prevent a steel on steel spark while your are picking your powder charge,,

Cannonmaker · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2006, 08:11:29 PM »

On some of my photo's of my guns firing, are some real good Rooster Tails, the flash coming out of the vent hole. The vent pick would become a projectial, if it caused a spark.

Blaster · « **Reply #8 on:** March 24, 2006, 02:05:57 PM »

Quote from: Kansas Boomer

Drilled the nipple out to the same size all the way through ( 5/64"). That is the size of the hole at the top of the nipple. The cannon lock works fine with that size hole. Fired about a dozen caps through it today. Must the prick be made from copper or brass, or will steel wire do? How many times should I prick the foil? Will a wire that will fit through a 5/64" hole make a large enough hole in the foil bag? Boomer

KS Boomer. I have drilled my musket nipple with a 3/32 size bit and it will still allow me to insert a copper wire right through into the aluminum wrapped powder charge. After a few pierces, you'll be able to feel the wire going through the powder each time. Have not had any that failed to fire (yet).
Also, do you ever attend the BIG Tulsa gun show?? It's going to happen on 4/1 & 2....
Blaster (Bob in So. CO)

dominick · « **Reply #9 on:** March 26, 2006, 04:03:38 AM »

I know this sounds like more work, but this is what works for me. After each round is fired, I remove the nipple, worm and swab the barrel, use a pipe cleaner in the vent hole, reload and prick the charge, carefully thread the nipple on the gun and insert the cap. retreat to a safe position, and fire. I use a 1/4" 28 straight thread nipple so I don't need a wrench to tighten it.

dominick · « **Reply #10 on:** March 26, 2006, 08:07:25 AM »

One of my concerns with a #11 nipple and cap is it can sometimes be a spark trap [especially if the vent hole is larger than the nipple hole.] That's one of the reasons I opt to remove the nipple and check for burning embers. I've recently switched to using using .22 short blanks in larger bore cannons. When the cannon fires, the shell ejects itself from the hole ready for reload and I like the larger (.230) vent hole for clearing the gun and for clearing misfires. Dom

Kansas Boomer · « **Reply #11 on:** March 26, 2006, 11:42:36 AM »

dominick, like your ideas, not really alot more work then I am already doing. I already wet and dry swab the bore. Will have to try the pipe cleaners. The vent on this cannon is 1/8", the hole in the #11 nipple has been drilled out to 5/64". Wouldn't hurt a thing, to run a pipe cleaned down it between shots. My removeable vent liner is threaded for 1/4x28, is there nipple for the 22 blanks that will fit this? I know there is a nipple to take the 209 shotgun primers. That would have lots more power then the #11. Boomer

dominick · « **Reply #12 on:** March 26, 2006, 11:48:22 AM »

What is the O.D. thread size of your removable vent liner?

Kansas Boomer · « **Reply #13 on:** March 26, 2006, 12:10:57 PM »

The vent liner is a 1/2"x20 SS bolt. Boomer

dominick · « **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2006, 03:00:14 PM »

Quote

The vent liner is a 1/2"x20 SS bolt. Boomer

That size vent tube is large enough to be drilled for a .22 cal blank and have a sufficient enough wall thickness not to split between the threads. I don't know of anyone who makes a .22 nipple but drilling the nipple to .230 or making a spare vent tube that size would work. The top of the tube wants to be flat to accept the rim of the 22 cartridge and the hammer does not need to have a raised dimple. I make my hammers flat and they fire every time. The extra clearance around the cartridge (.010) makes for easy placement and allows the shell to eject when firing the gun. I use .22 caliber black powder shorts. Use for top vent configuration only. I would NOT use this in an "inline" configuration, ie. back of breech [not that I ever seen any inline cannons] as this could be construed to be a .22 caliber rifle or pistol.