Author Topic: Dave - ever use wire broadheads?  (Read 865 times)

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Offline corbanzo

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Dave - ever use wire broadheads?
« on: February 23, 2006, 02:52:07 PM »
I know you bow hunt a lot, and I'm just getting into it.  I was wondering if you had ever tried the wire broadheads, which are supposed to bend to get around bones and get better penetration...  just wondering if you knew, had tried, heard anything?  Or anyone else?
"At least with a gun that big, if you miss and hit the rocks in front of him it'll stone him to death..."

Offline Daveinthebush

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Tricks
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2006, 01:14:05 PM »
I have seen them in catalogs but would avoid them.  There are a lot of new products out there that are like bass lures.  Designed to catch the fisherman more than the bass.  

Too many broadhead manufactures are going smaller and more of a "chopping" type cutting surface than a slicing action like the old Bear Razor or the Magnus.  

I use Slick Tricks and love them.  But I have the power in my BowTech to chop through the meat of an animal without any problems.  I also use Magnus 2 bladed 125 grain broadheads.  My arrows are over 500 grains also.  

With lower poundage bows and stick bows, I would go with a cut-on-impact head such as the Magnus.  It slices instead of dices.  For moose and brown bear I would also opt for using the Magnus with a high energy bow.

Some people claim that they can not get cut-on-impacts to fly correctly.  It is not the broadhead that is the problem, their bow is out of tune.  A properly tuned bow will shoot anything of the same weight and spine to the same POA.  My Magnus only drop 2 inches more at 40 yards because the broadhead is slightly longer than the field points and gives me a little different spine.

Any questions?
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Offline williamlayton

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Dave - ever use wire broadheads?
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2006, 01:21:42 AM »
Dave
I read all of your post and understood very little, that is because I know nothing about the sport.
Would you be so kind as to break down what you said for an illiterate such as I.
If it would be too time consuming to explain I would understand.
Blessings
TEXAS, by GOD

Offline Daveinthebush

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Pictures are worth a 1,000 words.
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2006, 06:52:58 PM »


This is the type of broadhead he was talking about.  It uses wires instead of blades to do the work.



A broadhead such as a Magnus has a longer cutting surface and less of an inclined angle.  Henceforth, as it is cutting, as it is slicing through the meat. It has about 3 3/4" of cutting surface for 2-blades.



A SlickTrick (that I use) has a sharper angle and chops through the meat because of the greater angle. It also has less of a cutting surface.  It has 3" of cutting surface for 4-blades.

If you took several dfferent types of broadheads and mounted them upright; and then took an old moose hide and soaked it in water and pulled the hide down over each broadhead.  You would find that the cut-on-impact heads (Magnus, Wensel) would require less pressure to push through the hide.  The chisel points (SlickTrick) and sharper angled broadheads would require more force.  So with a lower energy bow or slower stick/recurve bow (180 f.p.s), a cut-on-impact head would be more desireable.

With a compound such as my BowTech bow that is getting around 275 f.p.s with a 500 grain arrow, it will push either broadhead through the animal just because it has a lot more kinetic energy.

Some people prefer a chisel type broadhead as they react better if a bone is hit.  Cut-on-impact seem to penetrate better in meat and hide but may bend over on the tip if bone is hit.

The wire broadheads I would not even try on an animal unless it was a woodchuck or a rabbit.


No problem explaining this.  I am a teacher and do it all day long.  Some days I might explain the same thing 60 times to different people. :roll:
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Offline williamlayton

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Dave - ever use wire broadheads?
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2006, 03:27:00 AM »
I have never heard of tuning a bow. How and why is this done.
You can laugh out loud--I got dumber questions.  :grin:
That was good information and I enjoyed the read.
Blessings
TEXAS, by GOD

Offline Daveinthebush

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Tuning
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2006, 05:11:18 AM »
Well I will try to make it simple as I can.

With a compound bow, how the arrows fly is very important.  Most pro shops will paper tune your bow first when they set it up.  This is usually done at about 15 feet.  The fletching on the arrows should make three equal marks while shooting through a large sheet of paper.  Some pros use a bare shaft and you should get a perfect hole.  An oblong hole means that he arrow rest may have to be moved up, down, right or left. The same with feathers.

There is even a process for tuning a stick or long bow.

A video of a bow being shot in slow motion is a startling awareness of what is really happening when an arrow is released.  The arrow is fishtailing left to right or up and down, depending on the type of bow. The limbs recoiling and the arm moving.  

Does this help?
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Offline williamlayton

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Dave - ever use wire broadheads?
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2006, 09:13:46 PM »
Dave-
Yes it does and very well.
Since there is little chance I will ever use the information, in real life, you have provided me all that is needed for understanding.
Blessings
TEXAS, by GOD

Offline Matt in AK

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WW
« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2006, 03:33:41 AM »
I've got Wensel Woodsmans mounted on my arrows for the May/June bear hunt with Dave and his son.  They fly just like my field tips.  I'm reading up now on the best ways to sharpen them and keep 'em sharp.
Isaiah 6:8

Offline Daveinthebush

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Matt
« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2006, 05:56:37 AM »
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