Author Topic: ideas for remington barrel finish/treatment (Read 854 times)

mjbgalt · « **on:** November 13, 2005, 08:12:52 AM »

I have a model 700 sps in stainless.

the problem is that the stainless has the same rough finish as the 870 express line...very rough and a billion little crevices for rust or dirt to hide, and i imagine that, like my brother's 870 express, over time it will leave the barrel discolored.

I want this one to last forever and so i looked up 416 stainless on google. my findings said that 416 is a good stainless but that it is more prone to corrosion than other stainless steels because of its higher sulphur content. it also said the best way to keep 416 corrosion-free is to polish the surface smooth.

so what i want to do is preserve and protect the finish. can i have it polished smooth? should i have someone airbrusha sealant onto it? should i just oil the heck out of it every time i come home from shooting and hope it seeps into the finish?

GB said he used to spray rustoleum onto barrels he wanted to keep protected, but this is stainless and i dont want it black and i dunno if i found silver rustoleum, whether i could spray it well enough to make it look good.

ideas?

-Matt

Ramrod · « **Reply #1 on:** November 13, 2005, 12:10:37 PM »

Looks like you have stumbled on to the way the big gunmakers have managed to keep their costs down, by eliminating all hand work, polishing and fitting. It takes a skilled craftsman to do this right, and that kind of labor does not come cheap. You are dead right about polished steel being more rust resistant, this applies to normal gun steels just as well as stainless. You can have it polished, but then it might be too shiney to hunt with. There are also some other ways to finish the metal besides paint. Dura-coat comes to mind, and there are various baked on finishes usefull for stainless.

MI VHNTR · « **Reply #2 on:** November 13, 2005, 01:12:14 PM »

Matt, I bought a Remington 700 LVSF (Light Varmint Stainless Fluted) earlier this year. I bought some DuraCoat in matte clear and airbrushed it. The DuraCoat dulled the shine a bit and it now protects the whole rifle. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The rifle is now pretty much maintenance free. Heading out tomorrow for the MI deer season to give it another "test" in the elements. MI VHNTR

mjbgalt · « **Reply #3 on:** November 13, 2005, 01:16:39 PM »

sounds great....whats duracoat?

-Matt

Slamfire · « **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2005, 02:37:18 PM »

The only fly on paste wax is you have to do it every year.

jerkface11 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 15, 2005, 02:56:20 AM »

Buy a can of silver wheel paint. It's easy to apply. Indestructible. A can goes a LONG way. And it's fairly cheap. Krochus used black wheel paint to refinish his enfield and after about 100 rounds it still hasn't blown off the muzzel crown. The silver will probably look just like the your stainless.

Ramrod · « **Reply #6 on:** November 15, 2005, 03:23:18 AM »

Quote from: mjbgalt

sounds great....whats duracoat?

-Matt

This page has some info...
http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/

mjbgalt · « **Reply #7 on:** November 15, 2005, 12:12:15 PM »

thanks guys...

i don't have a spray gun and i dont have an air brush. i don't even know someone who does either.

so it looks like i will be using the rustoleum thing. wish me luck.

do you have to "bake" it on?

-Matt

MI VHNTR · « **Reply #8 on:** November 15, 2005, 04:57:33 PM »

Matt, here's a link to DuraCoat:

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

They sell kits with inexpensive airbrushes, plus they can refinish your rifle for you. MI VHNTR

contendernut · « **Reply #9 on:** November 15, 2005, 06:25:12 PM »

Hi Matt,

I don't know the spec's on that model. I kind-of get the idea that you don't exactly like the real rough matte finish that is on it. Why not just use the gun as is for now and when it starts looking bad, just have it bead blasted? Since it is stainless, you could have it blasted when ever it starts looking bad and it will always look good. The only problem with this is you need to know someone with a blast cabinet or a good gunsmith. Also with having this done, you can choose how rough or matte of a finish you want depending on what media is used to blast it.

mjbgalt · « **Reply #10 on:** November 16, 2005, 01:34:35 AM »

it already is bead blasted. i do like the finish on it now but i can already tell that its going to trap moisture and dirt and such and get discolored.

i guess it wouldnt matter as long as it didnt start to really corrode.

-Matt

Bigboar · « **Reply #11 on:** November 17, 2005, 04:13:45 AM »

I am using this place for my Montana Rifleman 1999 in 375 H&H all stainless. I am using a two-color scheme.

A friend has this on his M 700 stainless :-D and it looks and works great. He used the coat with the ceramic in it. Just got to pick a color. Go to the sight it's a good one.

http://www.falcongunfinishing.com./index.html

bigboar :lol:

mjbgalt · « **Reply #12 on:** November 19, 2005, 02:08:18 PM »

thanks for the site link...i will check into it.

-Matt

jerkface11 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 20, 2005, 12:00:15 PM »

The wheel paint i was talking about is rustoleum. Probably the same stuff GB was using. Looks just like the hightech finishes people are paying big bucks for.

Andy2590 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 22, 2005, 03:21:38 PM »

If you clean it normaly after each use it won't rust to begin with though. Stainless is less likely to rust than blued steel, and I have plenty of rifles that are blued and none of rusted. Yes, it may help if you put some of that stuff on, but more than likely it won't rust to begin with. I have the same rifle as you (remington 700 sps stainless in 300 mag) that I bought last weekend so I know what you are talking about with the finish on the steel, but if you just clean it regularly it should be fine.

mjbgalt · « **Reply #15 on:** November 22, 2005, 05:01:31 PM »

i decided to coat it with rustoleum in a flat gray color.

mostly to color it and break up the shiny finish, since it will be a coyote rifl most of the time.

then i will be adding dark green and black to the barrel in streaks to break up the outline and to camo the barrel. for deer i suppose this is not necessary but for a coyote application i feel a lot better about it if it doesn't stick out as the only silver thing in the woods.

it actually came out pretty good in gray. i just did dumb stuff like slip and have a thumbprint in it. lol

-Matt