Flintlock trigger pull adjustment (T/C Firestorm)

[DropTheHammer]

I have a T/C Firestorm Flintlock and the trigger pull measures as 9lbs out of the box.  T/C specs the trigger as factory set b/t 3 and 5 lbs.  Talking to several others, this seems to be a common problem which is remedied by deburring/polishing the engaging surfaces.  Has anyone here experience with this procedure?  If so, how difficult is it to accomplish?

[savageT]

I have a T/C Firestorm Flintlock and the trigger pull measures as 9lbs out of the box.  T/C specs the trigger as factory set b/t 3 and 5 lbs.  Talking to several others, this seems to be a common problem which is remedied by deburring/polishing the engaging surfaces.  Has anyone here experience with this procedure?  If so, how difficult is it to accomplish?

Most of these locksets are pretty straight forward, but if you will contact T/C, they will probably be willing to work on it for the cost of return postage.  Just contact them by letter or phone (no e-mails I understand).

Jim

[DropTheHammer]

Thanks savageT,

I purchase the firestorm in early Jan and sent it to T/C to 1) have the trigger lightened and 2) look at some corrosion on the barrel.  My primary reason for sending back was #1 and I clearly stated this in the letter I sent with the gun, as well as to the warranty shop tech I spoke with on the phone several times.  He said just include in the letter what I wanted the pull to be and they would get it done.    

I received my Firestorm back on Monday.  T/C had replaced the barrel, but had not touched the trigger at all.  I understand that it was an oversight on their behalf although it does not make me overly happy.   I will most likely ship the lock & trigger back to them and try again, but I was just wondering how difficult the job would be to try myself.  I've worked a few rifle sears in the past so I am not afraid to try.

If the lock surfaces are easy to get at I would like to attempt to clean them up myself.  I do not intend to get overly aggressive.

[Roger_Dailey]

They are pretty straightforward.  Just take a look at how it works.  A couple of points to think about are:
   The trigger return spring and sear return spring both add to the force required to trip the sear.  Reducing either/both of the return springs rate will help.  

   As far as actual lockwork to reduce the pull.  First, you'll have to disassemble the mainspring, hammer, bridle, sear and tumbler.  That will let you work on the full cock notch of the hammer.  The adjustments are notch depth and angle.  I suggest going slowly  on both of those.  Of course polishing any areas that show contact will help.  
YMMV

[gunnut69]

Be very cautious about changing the sear angles..  Even minute changes can be catastrophic, causing the sear to slip out from spring pressure..  The angles the sears meet at need to remain alightly above square, so the sear has to slightoly cam the tumbler back to clear the notch.  If the sear tips the other way it can release at inopportune moments..  I would also note when reducing springs it is best to not grind across the spring's flex.  And polish all grinds well.