What is the difference between 1040 and 1040 certified gun steel? Also, CW, were you saying in the above post that the 1148 would have around 100,000 p.s.i.?
Sorry for all of these questions, there's a few cannons that I'm trying to decide between for a future purchase. I'm trying to get a handle on which might be the strongest for shooting ball ammo. So far I like Cannon Mike's the best (1148) - they seem to be very heavy duty. Another is from Canadian Cannon 80,000 p.s.i. (12LD 14), and the last is from Cannon Mania, which is a smaller cannon (18") but is made from 1040 certified gun steel supposedly rated at 125,000 p.s.i.'s - this would make it the strongest as far as tensile strength but then again, the other two cannons have more metal surrounding the bore. So in a nut shell, the choices and the numbers are killin' me.
There are probably about a dozen or so factors that should be considered in the process - split between the characteristics of the steel, the strength of the design and the use to which the shootin' iron is put.
If you're planning on very high pressures, lots of firing and minimal cleaning - you might want to consider either testing with a couple of barrels going through the strenght testing to point of failure and repeated firngs of charge just below that on the second barrel to gauge life of the barrel.
On the other hand, if you're planning on sticking with an appropriate amount of windage with moderate charges using slower grades of powder with regular cleaning using a design that has been time-tested, has rounded inside corners and a powder chamber with a liner for the fuse hole - THEN I would recommend any of the steels listed.
Remember that it is not the tensile strength but keeping the charges (hence pressures) to reasonable levels. Steel will stretch when the round is fired. If not stretched past the point of permanent stretching it will retain it's strength for many many rounds. If it is stretched a little too far is becomes less ductile is hardened and is more brittle - therefore mor dangerous.
1148 ? I'm familiar with 1144 and am ASSUMING (classic definition & all standard warnings apply) that it is right-much like 1144 with a little more carbon. You NEED to check out it's characteristics - vendors are great for providing this information as their sales depend on it.
In general, most mild steels are SO MUCH better (in the characteristics that count) than cast iron and bronze, that if ou hve a good design for CI or bronze/cast iron it should do well with steel. Note also the issues of liners and DOM or SEAMLESS liners.
You need to get to the point where you feel comfortable with the choices base on everything you've seen or heard and KNOW WHY you've made the choices. Toss out these ideas and you will get good feedback regarding the design from a good number of very experienced folks here.
If your design is like a proven successful design with another margin of strength for safety added (INMHBAO) you will have a safe design.
That doesn't give you a yes or a no. That is for you to decide.
