Goose
A quick suggestion on scopes try them out side-by-side before choosing one. There is a significant difference in their ability to transmit light, even among scopes that are of comparable cost and seemingly comparable quality. I hunted for over 20 years with a Bushnell Sportview 3x9 that, while serviceable, simply wasnt very good in low light situations. These days I wont tolerate such a scope. Some scopes put a tint on the sight picture that I dont care for, but a side-by-side comparison is the only way to tell which ones work best for you.
As to reloading, if you think it will be a long-time endeavor, I recommend the RCBS RockChucker Supreme Master Kit. It comes with pretty much everything you will need except calipers and a case trimmer. Youll want a bullet puller, too. I recommend a chronograph to all reloaders and you can get a serviceable rebuilt Shooting Chrony from the factory for $49 (
http://www.shootingchrony.com/products_SCMMCM.htm bottom of page), or for less than $100 you can have a new one with a remote on/off (reset) and readout (recommended). Later you will want to add a case tumbler. You will also want to collect as much free load data as you can, starting with the web sites for Hodgdon, Alliant and Accurate powders. The Hodgdon Annual Manual is my primary reference since I tend to use Hodgdon powders a lot, cost is under $8. If you plan to use a specific bullet brand, get the manufacturers manual for them, too.
Dont worry about reloading the manuals tell you how and if you follow the directions a chronograph will help keep you out of trouble. (If you use the same components and stay at or under the published velocities, you should be safe provided you make any necessary adjustments for differences in barrel length between the one used in the manual and your rifle. (Figure +35fps per inch if your barrel is longer, -35fps per inch if shorter) The main thing is to reload in a place and at a time when you can focus on the work at hand never reload when drinking or on drugs, when youre upset or otherwise mentally disengaged. I dont even reload when Im taking cold medicine a mistake like a double-charge could have disastrous and permanent effects, and the risk just isnt worth it. Think SAFETY FIRST all the time, every time. Follow the reloading directions and especially the safety precautions (like only having ONE powder out at a time) and youll be fine. I learned from the Speer manual without any additional guidance and Im sure many others have had similar experiences. Still using the RockChucker I bought back then (1981) and its turned out many, many thousands of rounds.
Another safety tip use a powder that gives you a high charge density, meaning it fills or comes close to filling the case while still allowing room for the bullet. Such loads are impossible to double-charge and over-charges are easier to spot when you make a final inspection of powder levels in the cases in the loading block before seating the bullets.
For what it is worth, a .30 caliber can be used as a varmint gun but be careful selecting bullets. Varmint bullets are designed to be frangible, meaning they fall apart easily. This increases their effectiveness on small targets like prairie dogs, nutria and coyotes and significantly reduces the danger of ricochets. Hearing a bullet whine off into the distance is not a good thing since you cannot predict where or what it will impact. Speer makes a 125g TNT-HP bullet suitable for varminting and Hornady makes a 110 grain V-MAX. My choice would be the V-MAX. Nosler makes Ballistic Tip bullets in both varminting and hunting varieties, but in .30 caliber they are only available in the hunting variety.
Get the reloading stuff first and a new rifle later. And enjoy!