358 sta

[joshua 35 whelen]

I want to build a 358 sta.  Give me some input on barrels, stocks and triggers.

Thankyou,

Joshua

[PaulS]

Josh,
cut us a little slack and let us know if you are going to be hunting, plinking, shooting targets or doing the 1000 meter Wimbleton course with this rifle.
What kind of environment will it be used in and what are some of your personal preferences for materials. Is there a budget involved? - how much do you expect to spend?
PaulS

I want to build a 358 sta.  Give me some input on barrels, stocks and triggers.

Thankyou,

Joshua

[kutenay]

This is an intriguing cartridge and one that I consider ideal for serious big game hunting, especially in densely populated Grizzly country, such as B.C., where I live. I would build one as a number of my shooting buddies have done and here is what I would do.

Dakota 76 action-stock trigger, tuned

Kreiger, Lothar Walther or Lilja barrel

Serengeti laminated stock with lightening inside and buttstock work, alternative High-Tech, Micky or Borden synthetic, which ever you prefer the feel of.

NECG banded ramp front sight with Euro post

Talley mounts with spare rings, Talley "peep" sight, two scopes, I prefer Leupy 1.75x6 VXIIIs for this, both sighted in with your main load

Get a "good" smith to assemble the package, load 270 Northforks or 280 Swift A-Frames and you are good to go.

Many people will disagree, but, more and more of the really experinced hunters/guides here in B.C. are going to medium bore magnums for general hunting due to our current Grizzly problem. It's not about "macho", it is simple commonsense, why take risks with danger unless you have to?

[joshua 35 whelen]

It will be used for hunting. Should I muzzle break it?

[kutenay]

NO, these things have NO place on a serious hunting rifle, especially one that may be used in dangerous game areas. If, you are recoil sensitive, but, need a light rifle for alpine hunting, for example, consider first a Limbsaver recoil pad, then possibly a .338 Win. Mag. which doesn't kick quite as hard or even a .338-06 or .35 Whelen.

A muzzle brake is a p.o.s. that belongs on artillery pieces, not, on hunting rifles. I learned to comfortable shoot a .375H&H from the bench and so can you, just use lighter handloads and work up to full house busters.

[reelhook]

I disagree-brakes make practice more paletable and thus make hitting what you aim at easier to hit. I have a 350 Rem Mag that is comfortable to shoot from the bench and because of the break, I practice more. It is comfortable to shoot 20 -30 rounds at a time from a bench.

[Spyro Andes]

For me... a muzzle brake is a love hate relationship.

I love that they don't kick.  I hate hunting with one.

When it comes to serious hunting rifles, I generally don't believe in muzzle brakes.

As for the 358 STA, I thought about this cartridge long and hard.  I built a 358 Norma instead on a 'blue printed' Remington 700, shilen barrell, McBro stock, Warne Rings & Bases, 1.5-6 Leupold and custom trigger.

I use 250 gr Swift A-Frames.

Actually, it is the rifle that I almost always pack to Alaska...

[Judson]

A brake is nice off the bench and a properly designed one is no louder to the shooter then a barrel cut off behind the brake.   Now any brake is not kind to the ears of the people to the right or left of the shooter.     Most brakes are ported on all sides and here is the rub. the blast from the bottom ports hits the bench or ground and is reflected back towards the shooter.    The brake design I use on the rifles I build,(if a brake is wanted by the customer) are not ported on the bottom.    The best part of this design is that their is no muzzle jump at all, as a matter of fact it feels as if the rifle is being pushed down into your hand.    Where this comes into its own is in that you can see your hit and the critters reaction to it.   Depending on how you hit determines how you follow up your game if necessary.
   However shooting big rifles is something you can handle with practice.    It is just like learning to shoot, you do not start a young child out with a 12 gauge you let them work into it.   But for the shooter who can not shoot often and needs a big rifle for what they hunt a brake is an option.
   The idea of a .358 Norma is not a bad one.   Milder recoil, factory ammo is availably though it may have to be ordered and it is very reloader friendly.

[jimmygun]

I had a 358 sta built several years ago.  remington 700 action, 26" schneider fluted barrel, hart muzzle brake and cap, mcmillian stock.  gun weighed-in at 8.5 lbs.  not bad to shoot, at range, with brake on--not bad to carry when hunting.  gun shot moa out to 300 yards, with the right reloads using barnes 250gr x.  killed several bear with it.     brother-in-law shot it and bought it from me, so I put together the same gun except in 375 h&h ackley.  after shooting both, I definitely like the aclkey better.  I get better velocity with it and there is a better range of bullets for it, plus if I get into a jam with ammo I can shoot factory h&h thru it.  good luck with whatever you put together.  jim