mic'd the lower spring tang along its entire length at several pre-determined places. Using a croacus drum on my dremel, I stroked the lower spring uniformly across its entire length so as not to stress the spring. Removing and mic'ing periodically, I removed a nominal .003-.005 consistently along the entire length of the lower tang of the spring. I then polished the spring. Finer adjustments after this might be done well with alum oxide and a firm wheel with careful checking/mic'ing and consistency along the entire length...most important.
I "cleaned up" with a ceramic stone and water the engagement of the trigger cam/ hammer sear. This where primarily any "creep" is corrected and too a much less degree..some weight; weight reduction is not the goal here but an acceptable side effect to a small degree. There are two sides at right angles to each other. Shortening just the "top" end or vertical portion of the hammer sear will decrease engagement but should be done very slowly; too much here will allow the hammer to be pushed "off" with your thumb. Too much here, also, will allow the hammer "fly" to hit the end of the double action sear on the trigger with the trigger's shortened travel in single action. The "end" of the double action sear can be shortened to correct this; too much here shortens, unnecessarily the rearward travel of the hammer in double action. You then need to adjust the "other side" of the hammer sear, the horizontal portion, which allows the vertical portion to engage more, again, into the trigger's cam. Ceramic and water will "cut" but very finely; you should be able to uniformly shine the surface and STOP....try it..then proceeed again. Maintain all angles as they were..
When totally disassembled, other burnished contact areas can be polished very lightly with ceramic stone/water if there are rough spots..or more conservatively with rouge on a firm wheel. The idea is to polish and not remove metal. I also stoned/filed portions of the side plate where the pawl moves to prevent any drag there, if any. My particular revolver's side plate had been "sprung" by the armorer's incorrect assembly. This was straightened with a phenolic hammer and a wooden block. The portion sliding onto the bottom of grip frame had to be adjusted slightly with a file. She now fits tightly with no gaps at all mating surfaces to the frame. I also piened and recut the screws from use of the crude "disassembly" tool.
I suggest that moly slide or Brownell's moly "anti seize" paste painted on all interior lockwork is an excellent lubricant that will "stay" where you apply it. I paint it on with an acid brush.
My single action let off is solid; I cannot push off the hammer. It's pull weight is about 5 lbs. I cannot measure the double action pull but believe the double action is 10-12 lbs before the block pushes the cylinder forward, which likely adds 3-5 pounds on the "back end" of the double action pull....not much can be done about this except smooth surfaces between the rising "bolt" and forward moving "breech block".
This is a conservative improvement and not to the "envelope" of performance but the revolver shoots flawlessly and with much less effort.
