Author Topic: Rem 700 ADL synthetic action and bolting it in (Read 481 times)

bluebayou · « **on:** October 23, 2004, 07:50:12 AM »

When the barrelled action goes into the stock before you bolt it up, should it just drop in? With mine the action is cocked down at an angle to the front (the rear receiver bolt hole is angled up about a 1/4"). I then have to use two hands to squeeze the action into the stock to get the holes to line up. Is this correct? Should the action fit into the stock easier? The rifle was very inaccurate with the pressure points and I sanded them out in an attempt improve it. Everyone here pretty much agreed that was a bad idea. Now it is inconsistent with 1" groups or 3" groups depending on the group. I am casting about looking for explanations. I know that my technique is bad but this receiver to stock fit has always bothered me. Other rifles that I have seen just fit together. Is this an issue?

safetysheriff · « **Reply #1 on:** October 23, 2004, 01:05:29 PM »

bb'

The 700 ADL's I've worked with usually need the barreled action pushed down into the stock to get a proper fit. And that can take a fair amount of pressure in some cases. Push on the scope Rings, not on the scope itself to accomplish this. Then put a minimal am't of Loc-Tite on the action screws and tighten them all down Loosely. Then tighten the front screw firmly. Then tighten the rear screw --but not as firmly, and then the small-diameter screw just a bit. 60 inch pounds of torque on the rear screw is said to be enough! The loc-tite will hold them in tight.

The removal of the pressure bedding at the front of the (ADL) stock was a mistake. :shock: You can get it back in place with some JB WELD epoxy and a piece of shim stock -- maybe a thin(?) piece of vinyl.

Make sure, when you push a barrel'd action down into the stock that it doesn't have play forward and backward before it is tightened down. If it does, get some stainless steel shim stock and put it In Front of the recoil lug on the action to make it stay put rearward in the barrel channel. This has been satisfactory with the ADL's I've worked on. They can be made to shoot Very Well.

Take care,

SS'

ps: Remington's factory trigger setting might have been your accuracy problem. Adjust the trigger, IF you are good at such mechanical things, using the instructions at www.centerfirecentral.com :wink: Otherwise let a gunsmith do it for you, please.

bluebayou · « **Reply #2 on:** October 23, 2004, 05:25:25 PM »

Thank you, sir. I can't stop thinking about this rifle. I am going out to the range tomorrow to fiddle some more. You may be on to something there with shimming the recoil lug. I will take the action out again and look at it. I did take the trigger down to 3 lbs using some instructions I found on the internet. As to the torque on the bolts, I found out the hard way that 25 to 30 inch pounds is the recommended value. I am going to try your assembly instructions about loctite, firm tightening, then hard tight on the front, etc. I have learned a lot with this gun. The biggest lesson was "only adjust one thing at a time" so that you can eliminate variables.

Don Fischer · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2005, 02:19:15 PM »

I am presently working on one of those.................thing's. As it came, accuracy with anything was non-existant. I've tried both win and rem factory loads, Hornady 75 gr v-max and Nosler 70 gr ballistic tips. I've tried 3031, IMR 4350, BLC/2, win 748 and varget. I've used CCI200, Win WLR and Herter 120 primer's. Win, Rem, and LC Match cases. Nothing work's!

Now I've removed that uplift in the forend, relieved the whole action, opened up the recoil lug mortice and epoxy bedded it with micro-bed compound. The reciever now drop's right into place, there's no pressure anywhere on the barrel, the action touches only where the reciever bolts come thru, the screw holding the front of the trigger guard (plastic), I tighten down snug then backed off about a half turn (I may take it out and glue the trigger guard in) and the barrel is also bedded for about an inch and a half in front of the reciever.

Tomorrow I'm going back out to see if any of this helped. My impression is that Remington is selling these things with a semi-inletted stock! Even after relieving the recoil lug at the front and side's, the action area still grabbed the reciever and it took the screws to pull it down!

Reading back, the area under the front and rear reciever screw's is epoxy bedded also. The recoil lug make's full contact at the rear and is free at the side's and front.

This is my last Remington!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don Fischer · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2005, 01:26:14 PM »

Well I shot it and what an improvement. The 75 gr Hornady now group's into 3/4" with 40.0 gr IMR4064 and Win WLR primer's. I just noticed where someone said to loc'tite the action screw's in. Maybe, but then why not just go ahead and glue in the barreled action. I did that loc'tite trick year's ago and got to listen to Harvy Buemiller's list of 4 letter word's as he tried to remove those screw's. It's a very long and colorfull list. Loc'tite works just the way it's supposed to. If you really think you need something on the screw's, try fingernail polish, it does work, even if un-needed.