annealing

[josebd]

can anybody tell me the best way to do this?

[bgjohn]

Use a metal baking pan. Stand your cases up in the pan. Pour in water up to 2/3 of the way up the case. Use a propane torch to heat each case until it starts to discolor. Then tip it over into the water. Go to the next case and repeat.

That's how I do it and it seems to work.
JM

[Patriot_1776]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is "annealing" and what is it's purpose?  Patriot

[Dand]

brass, case brass work hardens from sizing and shooting, then get brittle.

Heating the brass as described by bgjohn anneals - SOFTENS - the brass and makes it less brittle.  You don't want to overdo it.

[gunnut69]

The water protects the critical case head and web areas.  Soften these and the case won't stand up to pressure and will leak gas as the primer pocket expands...  The brass must be heated to a light redish and it must be even..  You want it softened all the way around the neck..  If straight sided sharp shouldered cases like the 243 Win are softened too much some of the cases won't stand resizing, the shoulders will collapse as the shoulder is pushed back by the sizer die.  Also always resize after annealing...  the resizing puts just a bit of stiffness back into the case, improving bullet pull and thus accuracy..

[longwinters]

John Barsness says the best way is to have a cold wet rag standing by.  Then hold the brass with your fingers by the case head.  Use a candle and heat the mouth neck area until the brass is too hot for you to hang on to.  Then wipe the black off of the case with the cold wet rag.  He says this is the simplist way and works very well.  I can't say because I never anneal mine.  Never saw a need to.

LOng

[josebd]

when you put the cases in the water,is the primer still in or do you go ahead and resize first?

[bgjohn]

when you put the cases in the water,is the primer still in or do you go ahead and resize first?

Either way. I've done it both ways
JM

[Dave in WV]

Hornady has a annealing kit available from Hornady of MidwayUSA. Midway has a better price. I have one and it works great.

[jgalar]

I don't bother to anneal unless its an oddball, hard to get, or expensive brass. Most common brass sizes are cheap enough than I replace them when annealing becomes necessary. When annealing I put them in water and heat with a propane torch in subdued light to see the color change than flick them over in the water.

[razmuz]

I've never had to anneal because my primer pockets seem to go first.

[smoky]

Can it be done with nickle plated brass?

Smoky

[IntrepidWizard]

Excellent John,all these years and I never though of that,I was doing one at a time Needle nose lock plyers and then dropping in water.

[Patriot_1776]

If annealing is done properly, how many times can the case be reloaded?  And what are the most popular case designs or calibers requiring this process?  Patriot

[bgjohn]

I just neck size normally. I use Lee collett dies for this. I've loaded the same Hornet brass for two years. Some of those cases have been loaded at least 20-30 times. I'm getting tired of looking at them.

The cases most in need of annealing are military brass in 223 or 308. I anneal my TCU cases before forming and occasionally after loading a few times. If the necks start to split it's time to anneal again.
JM

[bgjohn]

Can it be done with nickle plated brass?

Smoky

Yes but it might not be pretty.
JM

[josebd]

i annealed 3 loaded them up and still had one that showed a crack?did i do something wrong or  what?

[bgjohn]

Where does it crack? Annealing won't fix cracks it just helps prevent them. Visually inspect and discard any with cracks before annealing. Size and trim your brass to spec. Load and fire the cases. Are you dealing with hot loads and/or military brass? Other than that, who knows?
JM

[josebd]

there winchester brass,not military,i inspected them,couldn't see anything,the cracks are always on the neck.