Rem 700 ADL synthetic stock torque?

[bluebayou]

I had a frustrating discussion with Remington customer service about this and was told to "hand tighten" the stock bolts "not to tight and not too loose".  Can anyone give me a torque range or specific number to tighten the bolts on a plain jane, synthetic ADL stock?  I read somewhere that 44 inch-pounds was correct but that was probably for higher dollar stocks with pillars or at least a better composition.  I want a consistent torque.  I have to confess that I am new to shooting.  I also have to confess that I tried the 44 inch-pound suggestion and broke the plastic trigger guard.  The broken trigger guard is what got me talking to Remington.  I will be spending $30 to get a steel trigger guard as soon as Friday rolls around, but will still need a good number.  This website is fantastic by the way you have all helped a new shooter whether you knew it or not.

[7magWoodsman]

Just as Remington said...Tight but not too tight...just snug them down good and check them regularly...kinda like you would spark plugs in a car...you don't want it so tight you can not get them back out easily, but tight enough that they will stay in...

Another way to say it is: Turn the screws clockwise until they stop on there own and then turn a hair more.

A wood stock is not as critical when overtightened but a synthetic stock will bow when overtightened which throws off the accuracy badly.
 

[safetysheriff]

I believe the torque spec' is for a "dry" screw and hole.    In other words, No Oil on any of the threads.

I use Loc-Tite, which in itself will act like a lubricant.    If you used a torque wrench and tried for 44 inch pounds I can imagine that something broke.    

Get a good B-Square ( I believe that's who made mine ) screw driver with the tips included in the gray plastic case.     Then use a 'firm' torque on the front screw, less on the rear trigger guard screw, and very little on the front (small ) screw.    The loc-tite will hold them in place.    See the seb site  www.centerfirecentral.com and some others for suggestions.

The barreled action must not 'rise up' out of the stock when the screws are all tightened and then the front one is loosened while the others remain tight.    The barrel'd action must be properly seated to get good shooting out of the rifle...with the recoil lug staying in place against the stock.

Good shooting.

[bluebayou]

Hmmm, maybe we need to back up a step.  I have been taking the action out of the stock each time that I clean it.  Do you always leave it bolted up or is this an individual decision kind of thing?  So what you are describing with hand tightening and the action not rising up (if one bolt is loosened) sounds right.  I would just feel more consistent with say...25 inch-pounds or 30 inch-pounds.  At 44 inch-pounds I HAVE to be bending this cheapo stock.  The Remington guy said that 45 inch-pounds was recommended on the HS Precision stocks but not the cheap ones.

[7magWoodsman]

I use Loc-Tite.

I have never used Loc-Tite on any of my Firearms, except on the screws that hold the scope bases on and the screws that hold the rings tight around the scope...I am not saying Mr. Safety Sheriff is wrong, but I have never done it myself.

I have been taking the action out of the stock each time that I clean it. Do you always leave it bolted up or is this an individual decision kind of thing?

Always clean from the breech, you don't want to risk harming the very important crown by cleaning from the muzzle, other than that...

If my pipe is the only thing in need of cleaning I leave it in the Stock, but if I hunted in the rain or excessive moisture or humidity then I will fully disassembly, clean and lubricate to my satisfaction. Sometimes I will disassemble and clean when I know it has been a while since I have unbolted it or If I feel the trigger needs a scrubbing. I also disassemble when coming from a really cold outside to a warm inside...sometimes I do it just because...I always check my screws before an outing though, and make sure they are "Snug"

If you are more comfortable totaly disassembling your rifle every time you clean it, go for it...If it helps you to trust your tool better then it is best.

I have never used a Torque Wrench on a rifle, I have never thought I needed one...I just tighten the screws on the gun the same way every time. A human can tighten a screw to almost exact tolerances with a little practice and knowledge of the rifle...just "experiment" and remember the pressure you applied in order to get it to shoot the best groups...just make sure it is tight enough...

Honestly, I truly think think you will know when it is tight enough, if you "force" it at all, you overtightened.

If you see the forearm of the stock bow out you overtightened.

 

[sgtt]

If I needed an exact number for my own peace of mind, I would follow the above rec. and then put the torque wrench on and see where it was at.

[safetysheriff]

When I first get a rifle I take the barrel'd action out of the stock, wipe it clean, and then wipe a coat of Valvolines Ford-approved front-end, disc brake grease on the barrel and action, etc...to let molybdenum disulfide etch its way into the metal.    This preserves the metal from rust.....very well in my experience.    I then put the barrel'd action back into the stock, torque it in place with loc-tite on the screws, and don't take it out to clean it.  

Don't put too much grease in the area of the trigger group because of the dust, etc. it can collect.

If you persist in taking the action out of the stock you will keep on risking the chance of losing your 'zero'.    Sooner or later the zero won't hold when the rifle is re-assembled.....and you may miss a shot.    

If you want to clean the grease and dirt out of the action, do like I do it, at the end of the season when getting ready to put a rifle away for a couple of months.    Just re-apply the grease to the outside of everything once it's cleaned to let it continue etching 'moly' into the metal.

Incidentally, plain old 'moly' like they coat projectiles with is not affording a firearm the same protection as moly' that is suspended in a grease.   You need the moly/grease mix to get good results.    They are not sure why straight moly' won't do it, but apparently it doesn't happen unless there is grease present.     Figure that one out!

Blessings upon you.

[cam69conv]

Could it be that the suspension of the greese keeps the moly from dissipating?? allowing it to penetrate..Any petrolium based product will penetrate metal more efficiantly I think

[bluebayou]

Somebody at Remington really came through for me.  They sent a metal trigger guard to replace the original plastic one.  Maybe they could tell that I am an obessive bolt tightener or something.  Well that is one part of the problem that is taken care of.  I will follow the common thread here about getting them "firm" or "snug" and then use the torque wrench to estimate a number.  If nothing else then I have a reason to shoot some more.

[oneshotonekill]

You have to be careful with over tightening the action in some synthetic stocks.  If the stock material is compressed it may not spring back to its original shape and cause poor bedding.  I once over tightened a bell and carlson stock on a Howa rifle that was shooting groups in the .3-.4 range.  The best I could get it to shoot after over tightening was just below 1".  Now I will have to glass bed to correct the poor bedding issue.  The Rem ADL seems to have a pretty flexible stock so the compression issue may not be as important but learn from my mistakes you can screw up some of these synthetics if you go too tight.

[huntin1]

The torque range for a synthetic stock that is not pillar bedded or equipped with an aluminum bedding block is 25 to 30 INCH pounds. With the pillars or bedding block the range is 45 to 65 INCH pounds. Sometimes you will have to experiment with different torque settings to find what your rifle likes best.


huntin1