Will this work?

[oktx]

I saw this in Field& Stream or Outdoor Life.  It said you could zero your rifle with two shots. 1. Turn your scope to the highest power. 2.Fire one shot, hopefully hitting the paper. 3.  Have a friend turn the adjustment knobs until they are on the bullet hole. 4. Fire a conformation shot.  If I try this I can't see the bullet hole with a Simmons 3x10 44 mag.  Thanks, oktx.  p.s It did not say at what distance to do this.

[Brett]

It should work more or less. The key is to use a rock solid rest and be absolutely sure not to move the rifle after your first shot.  Granted you will not be right on because the rifle will shift some do to recoil but you should be very close.  Here's another way of doing it in two shots that does not require you to keep from moving the rifle between shots does not require the help of a friend:  After bore siting the rifle,  draw a large '+' on a blank piece of paper dissecting it into 4 equal quadrants.  Using a steady rest place your cross hairs on the center of the '+' and take one shot.  Now measure the distances vertically & horizontally from the two lines that make up the '+'.   Let's say your shot is 2" below the horizontal line and 1" left of the vertical line.  A typical scopes adjustment knobs allow 1/4" movement per click (check the knobs on your particular scope) so in this case you want to move the cross hairs down 8 clicks and to the left 4 clicks.  Now take a confirmation shot.  You should be there in two shots.  - Brett

[handirifle]

oktx
I'm not positive on this, but I don't think the distance matters.  The object is to align the crosshairs at the impact point not zeroing for a specific yardage.  It will just take more movement of the crosshairs at closer ranges.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[safetysheriff]

If you want to conserve ammo' start your sight-in at 40 yds' or less.    If you are on paper at that distance you are in the game.    If not on paper at 40 yds then you may have saved yourself shooting out somebody's window on the next side road.      Obviously if you are shooting in the direction of a good berm then the distance can be somewhat increased.

I've seen some Very Bad results with the first shots from some Good rifles....     That's why the 40 yd or less is safer and gives you a better idea of where you're starting from.

It works for me.

[Natman]

I've used this trick alot..I have a modified Lohmans Sight Vise..I filled the vise with BB's and then drilled 2 holes about center ways on oppostie sides to allow half inch bolts to go through and into a 24inch by 12 inch piece of half inch aluminum..This still allows me to adjust up down and side to side with the vise..Believe me this baby is rock solid and fairly heavy..It makes a 7mm Magnum feel like your shooting a .22 Magnum rimfire..100 yards is usually the norm for sighting in but as long as you have a general knowledge of your ballistics I see no reason why you can't site in closer or farther..Aim center dot on your target and fire your first round..Bring rifle back to center dot then move yor reticle to bullet hole without moving your rifle...As was stated on earlier post though the rifle must be very stable ...This does save time and ammo but I may suggest that you should still take a few shots without a vise just to be sure..I've had some guns like my muzzleloader that shot exceptionally well in the vise but without it  shot more like a scattergun..

[safetysheriff]

An additional reason for starting out (or eventually) sighting in at a shorter range -- to check zero or re-zero a rifle when out for a hunt and you don't have a good practice area that's 100 yds' long.     If you know your sight-in at 100 yds' and at 25 yds' then you can quickly sight-in at the shorter distance.     I've used this on private property when not wanting to go out and spook the game on the 'back 40' with a longer shot.

SS'

[Brett]

Depending on the caliber/bullet and given that Handi's require a high mounted scope to clear the hammer wouldn't siting in at a very short range such as 40 yards place your shots extremely low at 100 yards? :?
If you bore site the rifle first shouln't you at least be on the target backer at 100 yrds? :?

[Donaldo]

If you have just bore sighted your rifle you may not be on the paper at 100 yds.  I would recommend starting at 25 yards, you are sure to hit the target at that distance.  And remember, if the scope says 1/4" click, that is at 100 yds.  At 50 yds, each click is only 1/8" and at 25 yds, each click is only 1/16" movement of the cross hairs.  I watched a guy at the range shoot a big muzzel loader for about 20-30 shots at 100 yards with a friend trying to call his shots.  He was not even hitting the 4x8 plywood target backers.  Finally I took pity and asked if he minded me making a suggestion, i.e., start at 25 yds.  He did and had it shooing pretty good in about 5 shots.  Remember with most rifles the bullet crosses the line of sight twice, first time at about 25-35 yds, depending on scope height.  Course all of you know this....right.

[Joel]

I've used that little trick for 15 years and it has saved me a lot of ammo and cussing.  I usually sight in at our local game commission range which has both high and low benchs and plenty of sandbags.  I set the target at 25 yds,fire TWO shots while holding on the center of the bullseye.  I then mark a heavy cross to what is the center of the two(didnt' need to do that with the 45/70). I then place the rifle solidly on the sandbags, with the crosshairs centered on the bull, and,looking throught the scope, firt move the vertical crosshair onto the cross, and then the horizontal.  Then I fire one shot to verify that both barrel and scope are in alignment.  Usually they are.  I then move out to 50 and 100 yds, shooting  either two or 3 shot groups.  I occassionally have to move the vertical crosshair a little(very little), and depending on the caliber, the horizonatal.  A surprising number of calibers, when sighted in at 25 yds, are "on" for a good ways out.  My 45-70 is dead on with the 300's at 100 yds, and 1.5 inches high with the 400 gr FP.  My 6mm(ruger #1) is 3" high at 100 and on all the way out to 275yds.  Best thing is it saves time, ammo(money) and aggravation.

[50 Calshtr]

Twenty some odd years ago this was how we zeroed tanks in the Army after bore sighting them.  At several hundred dollars a pop for 105 rounds we didn't have ammunition to burn and it was more fun hitting targets than playing games getting zeroed.  The key, as has been pointed out, is a stable gun platform, I've used a homemade gun vice for years and it has worked well if weighted and care is taken not to move the rifle after the first shot.

[MSP Ret]

Guys, think about it (this works, I have done for a few years now) It doesn't matter if you move the gun or take it home for you for a week between shots!!! Aim center of bulls eye (range doesn't matter as long as it's consistent on both shots). Carefully squeeze of a shot so it's not a called flyer. Now on your second shot, with your gun carefully supported in a cardboard box with 2 v's cut out to cradle the gun, one v in each end, align your gun so the crosshairs are exactly where they were when you touched off the first shot. Remember the gun is now supported by the box, the lens adjustment covers off and you are not allowed to move the gun or box from here on. Carefully (you or a helper, easier with a helper) while looking thru the scope adjust the crosshairs to the POI of the first bullet on the paper. Your scope is now centered in at where the bullet impact is at that range, simple..., it's not rocket science or voodoo....<><.... :grin:

[Major]

I was taught in the service in 1962 to sight in at 25 yards first.   That was with both an M1 and then with an M14, both .30-06’s.   When sighted in at 25 yards they would be very close at 100 yards.   If we were shooting for groups then it was an easy mater to fine-tune them from there.
 
That was with open sights but it works for scopes too.

[Longcruise]

I saw this in Field& Stream or Outdoor Life. It said you could zero your rifle with two shots.

This two shot systems leaves much to chance IMO.  If your rifle shoots 3" groups, then the chance that your first shot is the center of a group is probably going to be questionable.  If you have an extremely accurate rifle and a very high quality scope with good repeatable adjustments, then this will work pretty well.

Those who suggest starting with a 25 yard target are right on!  bore sight from the bench so the barrel and the crosshairs are looking at the same spot.  Then fire a few shots and adjust your scope for an impact point about 1.5" below your point of aim at 25 yards.  then shoot at 100 to fine tune.

[safetysheriff]

Depending on the caliber/bullet and given that Handi's require a high mounted scope to clear the hammer wouldn't siting in at a very short range such as 40 yards place your shots extremely low at 100 yards? :?
If you bore site the rifle first shouln't you at least be on the target backer at 100 yrds? :?

Bore sighting is no guarantee, particularly if you've got a problem with your muzzle crown or if your bench technique is poor!     You may not be on paper at 100 yds.....

The rifle is 'zeroed' for 200 to 275 yds for my use.    But -- I get on paper at shorter distances and then record the results for shots taken at 100 yds and at 50.     I believe the rifle is zeroed at the longer distances because of the Lee Shooter program, handloading manuals, or mfr's website information.      Obviously a bullet has to be over the line-of-sight at 100 yds in order to be zeroed for 275 yds.

Take care, Brett,

SS'

[Joel]

I saw this in Field& Stream or Outdoor Life. It said you could zero your rifle with two shots.

This two shot systems leaves much to chance IMO.  If your rifle shoots 3" groups, then the chance that your first shot is the center of a group is probably going to be questionable.  

The idea is to use the two shot system AT 25 yds.  At that range, even a relatively poor grouping rifle shoots small enough groups to allow a decent Scope adjustment for center.  If it's grouping 3" at 25 yds, and it's not a pistol, then you have bigger problems then just sighting in.  The fact that you might have to "tweak" a little as you move your target out, is no large sin in my book. I"ve watched guys at the range go through two boxes of ammo using the more "traditional" way of measureing/clicking and still not get on target. 'Course a lot of them have no idea of what their scope adjustments are calibrated for, plus a lot of them seem to think that the closer you are the less clicks you need.  They forget that 1/2" at 100 yds, means just that.  That makes the adjustment 1/4" at 50 and 1/8" at 25.  If you tell them they have to quadruple their # of clicks at 25 yds to move 1", they just look at you funny like.  Ammo companies love it, though.  More money is probably spent sighting in, then is spent for actual hunting rounds.  Good for the economy.

[JimIowa]

I normally will sight in at 25yds.
Fire 3 shots, then move the crosshairs to the center of those 3 points of impact.
The rifle will then be on POa and you can make final adjustments from there.
Been doing it that way for 35 yrs, saves a lot of agrevation.

I have several charts, that list trajectory of most cartridges based on a 25yd sight in(either dead on or 1" low or High), and most will give you a very satisfactory trajectory over the Range it is useful.

I see people use a full box of ammo at ranges and barely get on paper.
 Try the three shot method, it compensates for that wild first shot from a cold barrel, some rifles throw.