Little info please.

[TomC1426]

I'm thinking about getting a bolt action in either .223 or 22-250 cal. I've looked at the Remington, Tika T-3 Lite, and the Savage 12vlp. My question is how much work to you have to do to the rifle to get it to shoot consistent groups. The dealer I was at said that the Remington (700 Bdl wood stock can't remember if heavy barrel or not) barrel was not floated and the trigger work needed to be done by a smith. I liked the way the cheek plate on the stock felt and the overall feel of the rifle. opinions on this board have me concerned about overall quality. Cost was around $569. Tika (synthetic stock standard barrel) was lite weight, good overall feel, but was told the trigger needed worked by smith and I can't remember if barrel was floated or not. Cost was $660. The Savage had the laminated stock stainless fluted and floated barrel, and of course the Acu Trigger. I liked the way the oversized forearm felt and the overall balance of the gun. I'm a little concerned about the low profile as I'm over 6' tall. Guess the taller rings would take care of that.  :grin: Cost was $609.

If the other models have to have work done because they won't shoot out of the box then the Savage looks like the best deal to me. Wrong or right?

Thanks
Tom

[josebd]

i have a remington 700 bdl,wood stock,varmint barrel,.223 the best so far has been .385 group 4 shots,with hand loads.  i also have a savage 12fv .223,it'll do just as good, and i love the accutrigger.

[Zachary]

The Tikkas do NOT need a gunsmith to have the trigger adjusted, but the Remingtons do.  That's in part why I buy tikkas, because I don't have to pay a smith $50 to do a trigger job.

As far as accuracy is concerned, generally speaking, they are all shooters.

Zachary

[Graybeard]

The Remington M700 trigger is the most easily adjusted one out there. Folks say have a gunsmith do it cuz they figure most gun owners are idiots not able to walk and chew gum at the same time. I've adjusted bunches of them over the years. You just have to know which of the three screws to adjust and which not to adjust. One is pull weight and the other two are sear and over travel. Those latter two pretty much never need to be touched. There are lots of sources of info out there on how to adjust it yourself. Just be sure to reseal the screw so it stays put afterward.

If you aren't comfortable working on your own then by all means let a gunsmith do it for $25-40.

GB

[Squeeze]

I have a Tikka Whitetail Hunter, that certainly DID NOT need trigger work.  It breaks like
glass, with less than 2 lbs of effort.  I also have a Savage 16FSS, in .22-250 Rem,
with the Accu-Trigger, and I can not get it adjusted to the crispness of the Tikka,
and yes I have adjusted it to the end point of "lighter pull".  It is OK, but I think I
will have to have a gunsmith work some magic on the Accu-Trigger.  So, for out  
of the box accuracy, including a nice trigger, I'd have to give Tikka the nod.  But if  
just considering accuracy, these two rifles are basically a draw.  My son bought his  
first rifle, which is a .270 Win, in a Rem. 700 ADL, and for $25, we had the local smith
polish, and adjust it, and it helped A LOT.  It still is not as fine as the Tikka WH, but I  
would rate it as comparable to the Savage Accu-Trigger.  One gun that was not  
mentioned here, is the Howa 1500.  I won one of these at a DU banquet, and adjusted
the trigger myself, and I have that trigger rivaling the Tikka WH.  This was very easy  
to adjust, and the mating surfaces of the trigger mechanism were very smooth  
from the factory...And accuracy is sub MOA, for a .300 WSM.  But in your case,
given the slight difference in trigger pull/crispness,  I would probably go with which rifle  
"speaks to you" when you shoulder it.  The triggers should be fine, or easily adjusted, to be  
fine, and if the accuracy is like my Tikkas, and Savages, you will be happy with either.
 
Squeeze

[james]

I agree w/ Graybeard, - most people can adjust the Mod. 700 Rem trigger.   I lowered the pull on my .223 (mod 700 BDL) lighter than my other hunting rifles because I only use it for targets and an occasional varmint.  Accuracy was good right out of the box but the lighter trigger and floating the barrel probably helped.  I am happy with it but if I was doing it over I would get a laminated stock and heavy barrel.  I cracked my nice stock when I bumped a tree with it tied on my 4 wheeler in a soft case.  I had a large scope on it that wouldn't fit in the gun boot on the ATV.  I think all of the guns you mentioned could be very accurate.
Hope you get a good one.
James

[Braden]

Id have to say that all the rifles mentioned above are good buys.  Ill be getting a Tikka t3 soon, for whitetails, and theyre outstanding rifles.  Due to the calibers youve selected, it seems like your into varminting.  If thats true, how much walking around do you plan on doing? Because the most manufacturers make varmint models with wider forends, floated barrels, and heavy barrels suited for that purpose.  I had the chance to shoulder a Howa 1500 Thumbhole varmint rifle a few weeks ago.  Laminate stock with a stainless barrel.  Very wewll made it seems to me.  Most of those varmint models, including the howa, are heavier, and if you do a lot of walking around, stick with the Tikka.  freefloated barrels and the smoothest action ive ever worked.  Very reasonably priced, too.  Id say go to your local gunstore and pick up everything your interested in.  Then just pick what feels right for you.  good luck.

[Coyote Hunter]

TomC1426 --

Last Christmas I got a Ruger M77 MKII Varmint/Target model in .22-250.  IT has a two-stage trigger which I really like, wide fore-end, floated barrel, etc.  

Right out of the box, it  put 4 shots into 0.5" at 200 yards, using loads I had developed for an older Savage.

[TomC1426]

Thanks everyone, it seems like it's going to be more of how they shoulder since they all seem to be very accurate out of the box. I should have mentioned that my main use well be target and predator (coyote hopefully  :grin: ). There seems to be allot of folks that think the Savage guns are ugly. I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder cause I really liked the way the 12vlp looked. The Tika, I think, was standard barrel because it seemed much lighter than the others. Any problems or advantages heavy vs std barrel?

Guess my choices are down to the Savage or Tika.

Thanks again,
Tom

[bigjeepman]

TomC1426 ....

I too am interested in a Tikka or the new Savage Model 12VLP. I work part-time in a gunshop that has 2 of these new Savages and they are really impressive. I like the laminated stock, the Accu-trigger, the 26" ss fluted barrel, and the oversize bolt. This rifle however weighs 10lbs and would be too heavy for most people for a carry rifle. This might not be a problem for you though.

This Savage Model 12 also comes in the new .204 caliber which also has my intention with it's ballistics and a growing reputation for accuracy. Let us know what you decide ... sounds like a win-win situation for you.

[TomC1426]

I'm still a little confused about the advantages/disadvantages of heavy barrels. My understanding is the heavy barrel usually last longer and that it doesn't heat up as quickly. Disadvantage is weight.

If this is the case, how many rounds before standard barrels start losing accuracy? Use the Tikka T-3 as comparison if possible.

My main use for this gun will most likely be target shooting. I usually go 1 - 2 times per week and will avg about 30 rounds per hour. Hunting use will be predators and ground hogs. I leaning towards a Savage, but every time I pick up the Tikka, I'm more impressed with the feel. Plus the Tikka comes with scope rings and I'm looking around 40 bucks more for rings and mounts for the Savage.

Hopefully I'll be making the decsion in the next week or so.

Thanks again,
Tom

[mountainview]

Tom:

I can't add a whole lot more than what has already been said. I was on a budget so I got the Savage 12FV plus I kind of think it looks nice. The heavy barrel takes longer to heat up on mine (compared to standard barrels) so I can shoot longer and maintain accuracy. I like to go through 40+ rounds at the range and since the ammo is relatively inexpensive, I can do this fairly frequently. With rings and a Simmons scope, I have just under $500 and never had to enrich the local smith. The accutrigger on mine was fine right out of the box for my tastes. A lot of people bash the Simmons but so far the scope has held up nicely and shoots same POI at different magnifications.

My 12FV is not meant for toting around hill and vale so the weight (which is not that bad) is not a concern.

If I had my druthers, and the finances, I would get one of each of the rifles mentioned above.

[wareagleguy]

Tom,
If I read your post correct you said a Tikka T3 you was thinking of buying is $660.   If that is true you need to turn and run because you are about to get robbed!  I got my T3 for $437 and can get them all day long for that price.

If this place you are looking at these guns are telling you MUST get smith work done to adjust the triggers you should turn and run!!!

[TomC1426]

brdavis,

You're right the price was to high. I've since went back and the price is $599. This includes scope rings. The person I talked to also said that the trigger could be adjusted, and that they had a guy in the shop that would do it for me at pick up if I bought one.

Where have you found one for $476? That seems like a great price.

Now thinking more about a 22-250 and keeping my Ultra Varmint .223. The rate of twist on the Tikka of 1 in 12 for .223 and 1 in 14 for 22-250 has me wondering though. The Savage twist is 1 in 9 for .223 and 1 in 12 for 22-250. Not sure if it really matters or not.

Tom