Lyman GP Hunter - First Shoot

[Uncle Buck]

A buddy and I went out to celebrate the 4th of July by shooting my Lyman GP Hunter for the first time!  I've shot BPRs only a handful of times, and this is the first time shooting my own rifle.  We had a great time, but I have some questions on adjusting sights and charges.  

We used FFFg (Triple Seven, I believe), but I read after the fact that I should have probably used FFg, right?  Would I be better off with a different powder?  Also, our first shots hit bulls eye, and then we didn't hit the target again after that.  Is that just poor shooting, or could there be another explanation?  I am wondering if anyone who has a similar setup has figured out a good combination for this firearm.  I am looking forward to going out again and learning more about this sport, as it was a real kick in the pants.   Any comments or suggestions are welcome...

[PA-Joe]

You can use either ffg or fffg just adjust how much powder you are using. You didn't say what you were using: sabots. power belts, patched round balls. Where you cleaning between shots? 777 or Black Powder work. BP is harder to cleanup. Are you using the adjustable rear sight or the fixed one? Is it loose? It will take your barrel a few hundred rounds to break in. For now concentrate on finding what combination of powder and bullets that group best. You will have to expermient with different powder charges from 50-90. At one point the groups will get smaller then get larger again. Welcome to the club.

[jh45gun]

3 f will work fine if you keep it lower than a 2 f load as 3 f builds up more pressure and try swabing your bore between shots. Jim

[crow_feather]

Uncle Buck,

Welcome to the world of muzzle loading and GBO.  I wish you the best with that new rifle of yours.  I wish that I could assist you, but I'm more of a round ball/black powder shooter.

It would help people though if you tell people if your rifle was a kit gun or store bought.  Also what charges of powder you were using and your loading technique.  If you know where your bullets were going, that also helps as bullet strike, or lack of consistant strike, also indicates certain things.

Please do not get discouraged, it will all come together and you will be outshooting those fellas with those new lever 30-30 thingies.

Best of luck,
Crow-feather

[KING]

Be consistant in your loading practices.  Only change one item at a time.i.e.,powder,patching material,and the rb size is you are shooting them.  If it is a .50 cal,try .490,or 495 dia projos with differant patching materials.  Clean between shots(damp patch run down bore)  Vary the powdeer a little.  It may seem a little overwelming in the onset,but will get worse( lots more fun)  as time progresses and the groups get smaller.  We have a huge group of shooters and most if not all will have the answers that you seek,dont be afraid to ask............stay safe.......King

[Uncle Buck]

Wow, this site is a well of great information!  To give more information, the rifle was store bought, I was shooting sabots, and I did swab between rounds, but I was just using a dry patch, should I be wetting or lubing the patch?  It also seems I was using too much powder.  I am anxious now to get back out and experiment with different techniques as you all suggested.  Thanks a ton!

[quickdtoo]

Uncle Buck, most folks just use a spit patch for wiping, take a cleaning patch, stick it in your mouth and wet it just a bit so it is damp, run in down the bore a couple times being sure to wipe the fouling ring in the breech good, then be sure to pop a cap before loading to clear the flash channel of any fouling that was pushed in there while wiping. Some folks following the spit patch with a dry patch, I've done both, didn't seem to matter much, just do it the same each time when you develope a routine. hth,  Tim

edit:  Another tip if you are going to be at the range much, to protect the bore I use a steel wiping rod that has a bore guide on it, using a ramrod in the bore all the time will eventually wear the rifling out in the muzzle over time if you shoot a lot, I like my bores to remain in good condition so I protect it when on the range. On the trail or hunting I just use the ramrod.

[Uncle Buck]

Thanks for your help!  I do have another question for you all.  I went with saboted bullets per a recommendation that the GP Hunter with the faster twist is designed for sabots and not roundballs.  I personally would prefer to shoot roundballs, but was not sure if doing so would cause injury to my rifle?  Also, I understand that I can purchase a barrel for the GP Hunter with a slower twist to shoot roundballs; however, I am not in a position financially to do that yet.  So, until then should I keep shooting saboted bullets, or can I switch to roundballs?

[crow_feather]

Uncle Buck,

I wouldn't buy a box of round balls.  But if your at the range and there are some round ball shooters there, just ask if you can buy two or three in you caliber and try them.  I doubt that you will have much luck with the fast twist, but then again, each rifle is an individual.  I would go easy on the powder though, using only about 30 grains of 777.  (

Then when you can, get your round ball barrel and enjoy the less expensive way of shooting your rifle.

Best of luck to you.

C F

[quickdtoo]

Thanks for your help!  I do have another question for you all.  I went with saboted bullets per a recommendation that the GP Hunter with the faster twist is designed for sabots and not roundballs.  I personally would prefer to shoot roundballs, but was not sure if doing so would cause injury to my rifle?  Also, I understand that I can purchase a barrel for the GP Hunter with a slower twist to shoot roundballs; however, I am not in a position financially to do that yet.  So, until then should I keep shooting saboted bullets, or can I switch to roundballs?

Some will, some won't very well, just depends on the depth of the rifling and how much powder you load. In general, light loads will shoot well. My experience has been that light charges shoot reasonably well, but if you are wanting a hunting load, I'd stick with the better shooting sabot rounds. The only way to find out is shoot it! Using a thinner patch and larger ball combination seems to work better for me, if that is any help. The biggest problem is that heavier charges will cause the ball to not following the rifling and not stabilize, so they'll be inaccurate. The light charges allow the ball to stabilize, the better fitting ball/patch help, also. but only to a degree.  Tim

[Darrell H]

Uncle Buck:

As I understand it the GPH has a 1:32 twist and you are correct, it is designed to shoot conicals and saboted bullets.  The GPR has a 1:60 twist and its designed to shoot patched round balls.  I have the GPR and shoot 90 grains GOEX FFG with a .495 Hornady roundball and a .015 ox-yoke prelubed patch into 3-4" groups at 100 yards all day long with open sights.  

If I were you, I would continue to try to find a good "bullet" load with your barrel.  Shooting a patched round ball in your barrel will not hurt it at all, accuracy is just not "supposed" to be all that good with roundballs in your setup. I would actually like for you to try it and post your results.  I would recommend that you try the Powerbelt bullets, specifically the 295gr Hollow Point.  They have worked well for me in several fast twist guns.

Good Luck...
X

[Ramrod]

Hey Uncle Buck, you might try a minie, or better yet a Lee REAL bullet. A 350 grain .50 cal. slug doesn't need a whole lot of velocity to be a killer. If you find a slug that shoots well, you can buy a LEE mold for under 20 bucks. Casting your own bullets will save you lots of $ compared to sabotted bullets. If you shoot enough you might save enough money to pay for that roundball barrel!

[PA-Joe]

I also forgot, you should get yourself a range rod. Save the orginal for the display case.

[sabotloader]

Uncle Buck, I have kinda held back from repling to your post because of politics, but if you would like to carry this dicussion to you barrel let me know.

I shoot several different sidelocks one of them is a Lyman Trade Rifle with a 1/48 twist - your Hunter barrel is a 1/32 and is set to be able to handle sabots and conicals really well.  I do beleive you can do the PRB from it but not quite as effectivly as a slower twist.  Back a long time ago when i was fooling around with PRB's I was even shooting them from a 1/28 twist - not very far and not very effective but they did shoot.

Again if you would like to discuss what your rifle is capable of doing let me know.  This information will not be "traditional" or in the "period" of time the gun was to replicate, but what most people here call "modern."

You have a great weapon and I hope you have a lot of fun with it.  What are your goals?  What do you want to do with it?

[tundragriz]

Uncle Buck,  I also have a new Lyman GPH, mine is a flintlock, not sure what you have.  Just wanted to share some of my findings.  First I found several problems with the quality of the gun.  The trigger was terrible like 2 pieces of sandpaper rubbing together, the screw in the center of the metal buttplate was at an angle causing a sharp edge to stick out, both wedge pins were too short (had no confidence they would hold the barrel reliably), and the frizzen would not generate even a single spark (too soft).  On top of this I did not like the very sharp edged U shaped buttplate(didn't fit my shoulder) and I didn't care for the very dark and what seemed like a sludgy finish to me.

I went to work on it by cutting off the buttplate, replacing it with a recoil pad, and putting an inlay on the top of the stock where the metal originally wrapped around the top.  Refinished the whole stock with a hand rubbed tung finish bringing out the beauty of the wood, it does have a nice piece of wood.  Lyman sent me a new frizzen. I replaced the wedge pins with TC pins and ground them back to the correct length.I stoned and polished all mating surfaces in the trigger assembly(now has a fine 1 lb. pull), put on a Lyman peep on the rear and their globe on the front.  Here is a picture:


This weekend was the first I shot it.  I used 3F 777 and 4F Goex in the pan.  Ended with 90 gr of 777 as my preferred load.  Used 2 bullets, the PowerBelt 295 Hollow Point and PowerBelt 348 Aero Tip.  Both performed excellently.  My ignition over 2 days and about 25 rounds was 100% with the 777.  Had to clean the frizzen and pan about every 5 shots from the 4F.  Had to swap flints a couple times but the 777 ignition was totally reliable.  Cleaned the barrel after 15 shots even though there was no need.  Last bullet felt the same as the first.  Cleaned it with damp patches, 1st patch surprised me by not being all that dirty and the next 2 were quite clean.

The 295HP over 90gr chronied an average 1624fps and the 348AT at 1553.  3 shot groups at 50 with the 295s averaged .90 in. and the 348s were 1.10 in.  Group on the left is the 295s and the right is the 348s.


I am choosing the 348s for my hunting rounds as they have excellent downrange energy.  I figure this will be a very capable 150 yd gun.  This round will still have over 1000 ft lb at 150yd.  This is my 100 yard group with the 348s, 2.4 in.
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I am very happy with this setup.  I feel ready to go.

[KING]

:-D    I think you will need that reciol pad.  Yours looks just like mine that I put the same sights on.  GPR in .54.  It sure shoots good and sights help with my eyes getting a little older.  I also had to reharden the frizzen with casonite and lots better sparking with an English flint.  Stay safe.KIng