Author Topic: Revolver choice (Read 1278 times)

copiah · « **on:** April 21, 2004, 03:27:26 AM »

I'm looking at getting my first DA revolver. I'm going with a 4 or 6" 357 mostly for packing around the farm. I always liked the SW M19 but they don't make it anymore according to the gun shop I stopped at yesterday. They did have a old NIB 19 but wasn't sure on the price. I looked at the Taurus and liked it but they didn't have the adjustable sight model. After reading on the Taurus forum, I'm not sure about getting the Taurus now. I tried to go to the Dan Wesson site but it didn't have anything on the revolvers.

What other revolvers should I look at?
Do you have a price range for the NIB SW M19?
What price range do the DW's run and what model should I be looking at to tell my dealer?

jhm · « **Reply #1 on:** April 21, 2004, 03:38:09 AM »

Copiah : According to the blue book of values a new in the box 100% 19 is worth $345 + you will add some for nickle plating and the sight make up can run the price up another $35 to $60 and on the question of another model the S&W 66 if you can find one is a excellent gun its the model 19 in stainless then the newer model is the 686 S&W which I have in the pick-up on the farm vary handy and its in stainless, good luck on your search and take another look at the model 19 and see if the store and you can come to agreement on the price they were excellent h JIMandguns with that said

JIM

copiah · « **Reply #2 on:** April 22, 2004, 12:02:39 PM »

I've found a few that I'm going to look at tommorrow. They are:

GP100 4" matte SS 499
686+ new 4" 539
M19 3" 289
686+ used 4" 350

The 19 was suppose to be new but I haven't looked at it. The used 686 is suppose to be in exellent condition. Is there anything I should look at before buying a used revolver? How do these prices sound? I didn't ask about 6" guns but will look when I go. The main thing I want is an accurate gun when fired single action. I normally shot a 1911 and I'm just tired of having to look for and pick up brass. I thought a good DA revolver would be nice and serve as a woods gun.

BTW, I see S&W models referred to as the different frame size letters. What lettering does the small/med/large frame revolvers have and what is the size of the 19/686?

Thomas Krupinski · « **Reply #3 on:** April 22, 2004, 01:20:53 PM »

Copiah,

There isn't a lot of information about you in your profile to help make some recommendations, but I happen to have more than a few older S&W revolvers. They are my favorite double action revolvers.

I have small, medium and large frames, in barrels from 2,3 4 and 6. The stainless models are the most user friendly to keep and carry. The follow are some considerations that I would urge you to consider.

Depending upon your hand size, (you shoot a 1911 so it may not be very large) you may need to replace the stock grips. I have smaller hands and I find that the Hogue grips to be about perfect and have them on all size frames. Also have a Pachymer on one of the K frames and that also fits well, don't remember the model number and size at the moment.

I have taken all of them to my smith for an action/trigger job when I got each. Small price for a very large amount of improvement. The ability to pull double smooth and hit with is is worth it.

All except for two snubby model 60's have Meprolite tritium sights installed. It is relatively for a do-it-yourselfer. Big difference at night in darker places.

On selecting the frame size that fits you. You seem to think that a 38/357 will meet your needs and I will assume that is so. However don't overlood the 41/44's in the N frame. A little heavier to carry, but the ability to do what the smaller will do when loaded down with cast bullets.

Next consider how you intend to carry. My preference is a Galco dual position Phoenix holster that can be used strong side or crossdraw.

Now if the seller will give you a grace period with return privledges, take it to your gunsmith and have it examined. If it was me I would get used 4" .357 stainless, maybe an L frame (medium frame with full barrel shroud) and have the smith do an action job and change over to night sights.

Don't know what area you are in, but those prices seem a little high to me. Hope that's of some help, sorry is if it's off track.

Mikey · « **Reply #4 on:** April 23, 2004, 04:12:49 AM »

copiah: the prices youlisted for three of the guns you identified are not all that bad, although they could be had for less. Your 686s are both good choices as they are in the medium frame (K Frame) and evolutionary developments of the Model 19s you are looking for. As for that one Model 19 you listed, the price is about right although a 3" barrel may give you more bark than bite. Since you are looking for a field piece I would recommend a 4" bbl for ease of carry and a 4" will get you that much closer to the effective velocities of the 357. I used to shoot a 4" Model 19 on the silly-wet range and could knock over the ram at 200 yds with a 200 gn boolet, so I don't think you really loose anything in a 357 by going to 4" instead of 6", except the hole the longer bbl wears in your hip.

I know how you feel about policing up your brass after a 45 shoot, and I have thought how nice it might be if CCI ever produces its aluminum cases for reloaders - then ya'll kin shootem and loosem. Same way with some of the eastern european steel cased ammo that may come in 45 acp caliber.

You also asked about S&W frame sizes: "BTW, I see S&W models referred to as the different frame size letters. What lettering does the small/med/large frame revolvers have and what is the size of the 19/686?". S&W has or had, until the 500 came out, 3 basic frame sizes: The 'J-Frame' revolvers are the smallest frames and are typically the 5 shot snubbies that come most often in 38 spl, now 357 and some of the other calibers. The 'K-Frame' is the medium frame size and is most typically seen in Model 10 38 Spl, the Model 19/686 and, I guess, now some other calibers too (but I would have to check on that); and the N-Frame is/was the largest frame revolver S&W sold and is typically seen in 357, 41 and 44 magnums. The S&W 500 is a new frame size and I don't know what it is called - they might name it the 'P-Frame', 'cause ya'll prolly need a pickup truck to haul the darn thing or maybe the 'W-Frame' 'cause you'll prolly need wheels to tow along behind ya (LOL).

HTH. Mikey.

Mikey · « **Reply #5 on:** April 23, 2004, 06:51:12 AM »

cknight98: Chris - thanks, I had forgotten all about the L frame but at least my interpretation of the 500's size at 'W' frame was close enough to the X to score at least 9 points ( :-D ). Mikey,

copiah · « **Reply #6 on:** April 24, 2004, 04:16:29 AM »

I went with the 686. It was used but seemed to be in exellent condition. The shop has an indoor range and full time gunsmith that had inspected it. Hopefully everything is in good shape. I shoot with the guys that run the shop so I think I did ok. It is one of the 6 shot guns that has the firing pin on the hammer.

Thanks for the input. I'm sure I'll have a few questions especially about cleaning/disassembly and loads.

Do you prefer to use special brass or mag brass? I'm going to load a 158 lead bullet to start with. I bought a couple boxes of the cheap Winchester 38 Special loads to start with and was planning on using only the 38 brass unless I wanted to shoot high velocity jacketed. I read the article in this years Hodgdon book and it said most people used the mag case. I was going to order some more brass and wondered what everyone was using.

I also need to get some snap caps to dry fire it with. I'm guessing dry firing without the caps is bad on the hammer/firing pin.

papajohn428 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 24, 2004, 01:10:26 PM »

Copiah, you have chosen well and will love that gun. The trigger on mine only got better with time, and while I did manage to wear it out, it took about 45,000 hot loads to do it. Personally, I think the balance of the four-inch gun is about perfect, just make sure the grip fits your hand, and all will be well between you and your new bullet launcher.

As for reloading, if the loads are mid-range or light, 38 cases work fine, but for the heavier stuff the longer case gives you a little more of a margin for error. But you can shoot 38+P's all day and the gun will never complain, it's designed for magnums, at nearly double the pressure.

Enjoy! :grin:

PJ

copiah · « **Reply #8 on:** April 25, 2004, 03:43:50 PM »

Had a chance to give it a try this weekend and I'm happy with it. Shooting single action, it puts up good groups but I need to work on the DA shooting to get use to the long heavy pull. I did use it on a timber rattler while bush hogging yesterday.