DIY Trigger job on Ruger M77

[Coyote Hunter]

Recently I acquired a 1989 Ruger M77 in .257 Roberts.  The rifle is in pristine condition, although the Leupold scope has a couple scratches in the finish.  I've worked up a couple loads that hold under 2" at 200 yards, and one put 3 of 4 into 0.65" at that distance.  The barrel is 22" and frankly, I am enjoying the heck out of this gun.   The only drawback was the heavy trigger, which made accurate shooting much more difficult than it should be.

I called the gunsmith that did the trigger job on my Browning BDM, and he wanted $85 for a trigger job.  Ouch!

Since it was a M77, it came from the factory with an adjustable trigger.  I pulled out the manual for my M77 in 7mm Rem Mag and studied the parts breakdown to determine which screws did what, then adjusted the trigger pull weight.  It still wasn't what I wanted (and in fact I'm sure it didn't change anything), so I adjusted the sear engagement, which made me a bit nervous.  The trigger still wasn't as light or crisp as I wanted, so I tore the rifle apart, dismantled the trigger and polished up the various surfaces with a Dremel tool.

When I was done polishing, I reset the sear engagement to its original setting and actually increased the weight of pull setting.  (The weight of pull screw now actually seems to make a difference.)  The end result was a much lighter, crisper trigger pull.  

I haven't measured out the pull weight, but I'm guessing its running 4 pounds as set and a little lighter if I back the weight of pull screw out a bit.  I'll probably leave it as it is for now, as Daughter #2 will be shooting it in the near future.  (If she can get it away from me!)

Now that I've figured out the secrets to the Ruger M77 trigger, I think I'll pull out my 7mm Rem Mag and polish up tis trigger mechanism, too!

[gunnut69]

I just have to point out the problem here.  While I use the moto tool a lot and find them indespensible there are also limits.  If you round the sear noses off, easy with a power tool, the trigger may become dangerous.  Trigger jobs on adjustable triggers such as yours are fairly easy if you know what you are doing.  If you don't your lovely daughter may become a casualty..  Sear engagements need to be square and true a hand held power tool is NOT the tool for the job...

[Coyote Hunter]

...  Sear engagements need to be square and true a hand held power tool is NOT the tool for the job...

gunnnut69 -

Having trained and worked as a machinist when I was younger, I fully appreciate what you are saying and agree that using a hand tool is hardly the ideal method.  The Dremel was better than my bench grinder in the garage, though.

Rest assured that, while I did do a little grinding, most of the work was polishing and the resulting surfaces are still "square and true".  I did break the edge on the sear, intentionally, but with the polished parts I was actually able to increase sear engagement while decreasing pull weight.

Your point is well taken, and I would second the caution to do-it-yourselfers.

[Zachary]

The only guns that I would give the green light to adjust the trigger are the Tikkas and Sakos.  I own both, and adjusting the trigger is as easy as turning a screw.  I think that the Howa is similar.

Other than that, I strongly advocate spending about $35 to $50 to having a competent gunsmith adjust any other trigger.

Zachary

[MI VHNTR]

The Remington trigger is quite easy to adjust too. It is also screw adjustable. You just need to scrape the sealer off of the three screws, adjust them, and re-seal them with something like nail polish. MI VHNTR

[Coyote Hunter]

The Ruger M77, unlike the M77 MKII that replaced it, is screw-adjustable - at least in theory.  The problem with my .257 Roberts was that the the pull-weight screw did nothing because the sear parts needed a lot of polishing and a very tiny bit of grinding.

Last week I tore my wife's Ruger Super Single Six apart and worked on its trigger.  Same story, a very tiny amount of grinding and lots of polishing turned it into a pretty nice trigger.  Most of the work needed on this gun was not in the sear area but on other moving parts.

Last night I took my Thompson Express .50 muzzleloader and reworked the trigger on it.  Polishing made a world of difference - its still not a world-class target trigger, and never will be, but at least its pull is smooth and easy intead of gritty and hard.  And it still has a very positive sear engagement.

Although I haven't had a chance to do so, something I hope to correct this weekend if not tonight, I plan to take my 7mm Mag M77 and polish up its trigger parts, too, even though it is fairly decent as-is.  Then I'll polish up the trigger on my Ruger Super Redhawk and Marlin 1895, both of which are fall into the "OK but not great" category.  

The last gun I plan to touch the trigger on is the Browning B92, even though it now needs the work more than any other gun I own.  

By the time I'm done, and assuming I don't screw something up, I'll have improved the triggers on 7 of my firearms.  Given the quotes I've been given of $85 each, thats $595 in trigger jobs for the cost of a Dremel tool.  At the more conservative cost of $50 each (and I haven't found a gunsmith who will do it for that), we're still talking $350 vs. $50 for a Dremel.  With those kinds of savings, I can afford to ruin and replace a part or two, although at this point I consider that possibility to be unlikely.

I'm not going to recommend that every gunowner get a Dremel and start grinding on their triggers, but the rewards can be pretty significant - improved shootability of the firearms and the satisfaction that comes from doing it yourself, plus the monetary savings.

I agree with Zachary, though - if you're a klutz or mechanically challenged, don't even think about it!