Removal of the proud edges on the buttstock?

[mannyrock]

Dear Guys,
 
    I notice that you can buy nice aftermarket walnut stocks for the Handi.  (I actually have a .50 Huntsman, but I am posting this question with the rifle section because I think you will have lost more experience with re-stocking these frames.)
 
    If I want to buy and fit a new walnut buttstock, will I be able to eliminate that blobby proud edge of the wood, where it fits into the base of the receiver, so that the wood fits flush? Or, is there some mechanical reason that requires the proud edge to remain there?  (Maybe the metal edges of the receiver are really thin, and the heavy proud edge is necessary to keep the stock from cracking?)
 
   I also have the same question about the forestock as well.
 
   I seem to remember way way back, that my great aunt had an old H&R .410 shotgun, with a beautiful walnut stock.  And I don't remember it having all of those blobby edges on the buttstock or forestock.
 
   Thanks for all advice.
 
Mannyrock
 
 

[quickdtoo]

Even some factory H&R rifles have the stock made to a closer fit the frame, but it's no problem making it fit yourself, many have done exactly that.

Tim

[Ranger99]

i've whittled down several shotguns
with no ill effects other than being
tedious and time consuming trying
to do a decent job.


i think they leave it all ugly like that
because of the time it would take to
hand fit each stock to the respective
receiver and the resultant price increase,
and leaving extra meat allows them to
use pretty much the same stock on
everything and they can just reach around
and grab a stock out of a bin full instead
of having several bins of " a " stock, " b "
stock, etc.
i've left some "ugly" because of not wanting
to invest the time required to fiddle with
it to do a decent job of it.

[mannyrock]

 
   Thanks guys for the excellent replies.
 
    Is there a special tool or technique that I can use to bring the wood of the stock flush to the edge?  I have done a fair amount of stock restoration work, but the only thing I've ever used is sandpaper, and my eyes, and lots of time.      My neighbor is a professional woodworker (custom tables and cabinets, that he sells for about $10,000 each, no joke).   He has every woodworking machine and handtool known to man.
 
    Is there a tool I could ask to borrow, or a quick machining process I could ask him to do, to make this task a little easier?
 
Thanks, Mannyrock
 

[quickdtoo]

Lots of links on stock work in the FAQs. 

Tim

[jpshaw]

I've actually done more to my shotgun stocks then my rifle.  I do not like the oversize where it meets the metal, the squarish feeling grip nor the flat areas on top of and in front of the forearm.  Not to mention I favor a straight stock on a shotgun.  Needless to say I cut the grip off of mine and then spend a loooong time with a power sander reshaping and finally refinishing them.
 
Here is my old 12 gauge.
 

[Jim Flinchbaugh]

I've been contemplating doing the exact same thing going for the more classic single shot look
including the schnable fore end.

jpshaw
that is an awesome looking buttstock!

[mannyrock]

Jim,
   For less than $100, you can buy both a real walnut buttstock and walnut schnaubel forend for your rifle.  They come about 95% inletted.  Given all of the hard work it would take to get things flush, it would be nice to have walnut.
 
Mannyrock

[gcrank1]

Most of the classic rifles had the wood a tad proud of the metalwork. Shrinkage over time and several refinishes later many of those are flush. If you find and handle some old unrefinished originals you will see what I mean. Given that, I would leave it a tad proud too Iffn I ever gets around to it.........
One of those 4-in-hand files (4 different rasp to med tooth) files is handy for work like this, but slow. Power tools are fast (to make fast mistakes?), but Id reserve them to careful use for major removal and hand tools when close. You want to cover any metal you are working down to; one of the best is thin shim stock cut and taped in place. Quick & dirty is duct tape.
I dont care for the nose of the comb on factory H&Rs, look at some older Winchesters or fine classic sporters for a better nose job. I would do this before working the wrist to get the right line and hand. The treatment of the bottom rear of the pistol grip (front curve too) where it transitions to the butt proper needs relief to keep from being so clubby.
In short what Im saying is there is quite a bit of extra wood left on the factory stock to refine it, just remove any wood covering up the classic shape that is in there.

[Ranger99]

just go slow
cut and try until you get to where
you want to go. like gc1 sez, i'd leave
a wee bit overhang to account for
shrinkage & such.
easier to take material off than put back on.
you already have your mark where the receiver
was to go by.
good luck.

[hoytcanon]

I've also seen a couple reshaped stocks split... one on a .45/70 and one on a Whelen... I have thought many times about reshaping... I don't like the proud wood either... but if I do it, it won't be on the pallet wood... I don't trust the strength... a really nice tight grained walnut or a laminate should be fine (should be?). I am working on a walnut mannlicher now, for a 7mm-08 and I am going to take it down slimmer than normal.

[rdlange]

I carefully fit one just right - flush.  Then switched it to another receiver.  It was too small in places.  Be careful to leave a little proud just in case.

[jpshaw]

jpshaw
that is an awesome looking buttstock!

That is the pallet wood stock that came on this $45 pawn shop find.  Cut and reshaped.  I think the flaws in the wood give it character.  BTW the problem with wood stocks is they have to be indiviually shaped so to keep costs down they do as little as possible.  Steel and plastic parts are molded and you only have to build a mold one time.

[gcrank1]

Older stocks were much closer to metal fit than they have been for some time now. I know a chap with a WWII stock duplicator that can work to much tighter tolerances and modern machinery can and does so routinely also. There is no good reason why the 'extra' at the action cant be reduced by at least one half.

[knight0334]

Here is what I did a few years ago on a set of GunStocks Inc pieces I got off of Tim.

[hoytcanon]

Here is what I did a few years ago on a set of GunStocks Inc pieces I got off of Tim.

Really nice job there... improve the transition without removing too much of the strength... I am going to try a similar profile. Thanks for posting.

[rd35]

I did my new .35 Whelen, since I was refinishing it. I just scribed around the receiver with a fine permanent marker and removed the stock. Then I used an electric corner cat sander for most of the sanding (finished with 220 grit sandpaper).

[rd35]

I just finished mine.

[rd35]

More pics

[nanuk-O-dah-Nort]

Here is what I did a few years ago on a set of GunStocks Inc pieces I got off of Tim.
<pics removed to save bandwidth>

that is a nice compromise

looks good, keeps a lot of wood for strength.

as long as it fits the hands well, it is probably the best I've seen that is doable by pretty much anyone who can wield a bit of sandpaper.  And one could take down the wrist a hint at a time until it just fits them, and have best of both.

thanks for showing us those!

[RPRNY]

Here's a link to a thread showing how I fit a set of Gunstocks Inc Walnut stocks (Mannlicher type forend) to a 45LC Handi:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=278344

The most useful tool I found for stock shaping were these wood cards or cabinet scrapers. At $16 - $20, one of the best investments I've made:



My first effort with stock finishing. I learned a lot. Go very slow. Remove small bits, check fit and proceed. Use 0000 steelwool to even finish between applications of Tru Oil.

[blind ear]

I fit electrical tape on the metal butted to the wood. Start with 4inhand and big bastard cut file then coarse sand paper to fine. Change tape if I gouge it. Put on masking tape to bring it down a little more, careful. Leave it a little proud for a while then careful with a block and fine grit. ear

[gcrank1]

RPRNY, you are correct, scrapers are ever so fine for me too. I dont know, but maybe its just the act of 'shaving off' fine slivers by hand and eye to get where I am going without the noise and brutishness of power equipment that appeals to me now. Mine are mostly old knives Ive acquired to reshaped for concave/convex edges, and one flintlock smoothbore was almost completely done with a pocketknife after the roughing. It took forever but had finesse. That one I 'boned' rather than sandpapered. I like the way I can work the wood and refine the lines and hand over time to what I want, with applications of 75/25 tung & boiled linseed oil/ odorless mineral spirits rubbed in each time. When finally where I am satisfied I can go for top coats, though several are just more of the oil finish, its great as is or under something like TrueOil varnish.

[hoytcanon]

Here's a link to a thread showing how I fit a set of Gunstocks Inc Walnut stocks (Mannlicher type forend) to a 45LC Handi:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=278344

I read through the Shotgun World thread... that was back in March... did you ever finish the gun with checkering and butt pad? Any updated pics? It looks good.

[RPRNY]

Here's a link to a thread showing how I fit a set of Gunstocks Inc Walnut stocks (Mannlicher type forend) to a 45LC Handi:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=278344

I read through the Shotgun World thread... that was back in March... did you ever finish the gun with checkering and butt pad? Any updated pics? It looks good.

[hoytcanon]

Very nice... thanks for sharing... I am half way through the same project (minus the forend cap) with an ebony tip, on a 7mm-08 shorty.

[RPRNY]

Very nice... thanks for sharing... I am half way through the same project (minus the forend cap) with an ebony tip, on a 7mm-08 shorty.

Sounds excellent! Is there a Handi that you don't have?  I admire your ingenuity, time capacity and matrimonial management.