Tips on reaming a chamber needed.

[Part 77]

I have a request in with Tim to rent the .30-30 AI reamer for my H&R Model 258 barrel. Any tips/tricks to removing the extractor? I assume it needs removed. Should the smaller roll pin or the larger come out first?? The actual reaming will be done by an experienced machinist.
TIA.

[stimpylu32]

P77
 
Of the ones for rimmed case's that I have done so far , I never bothered to remove the ejector , I just made sure it was down in place and used it as a guide to help keep the reamer trued up as it went into the chamber .
 
stimpy

[trotterlg]

You can remove either pin first, doesn't matter.  Take care if you leave it in that it doesn't stick up too high when latched down and catch some of the reamer flutes on it.  Larry

[gendoc]

i guess everones got there own technique..... ejector/extractor=== gotta go !!
for reasons of our own.............

[Part 77]

I should have said ejector.
When latched in, it still protrudes slightly, leading me to think it needed removing. Thanks to all for the info.

[quickdtoo]

Please read the instuctions in the GBO reamer sticky, I also haven't received a PM from you. The ejector needs to be removed, it's much harder than the reamer and could damage it or the chamber while reaming, certainly a risk not worth taking since the ejector is easily removed and reinstalled, you'll want it out for clean up any way, and you'll want to do the ejector tune described in the FAQs as well, R&R is also covered in the FAQs.  Please be aware that the M258 has a soldered underlug and shouldn't be hotrodded as can be done with a modern welded underlug. 

Tim

[rdlange]

I just did a 158 barrel.  I removed the ejector.  Small pin only and it came out along with the spring.  I put it back on to check final fit.  It did.  I used "Tap Magic" with every reamer.
 
GO SLOW, CLEAR SHAVINGS FREQUENTLY, CLEAN CHAMBER EVERY TIME YOU REMOVE AND CLEAN THE REAMER.

[bucmeister]

Any particular recommendations on which cutting oil to use for the chamber reaming.  I noticed what looked like a squeeze bottle of Craftsman thread cutting oil in photo in the thread by cwlongshot when he reamed his 35 Remington to 356 Winchester.  Is that as good as any other?  Are there better choices for a chamber reaming job which is done by hand with a t-handle?

Thanks,  bucmeister

[Airsporter]

Probably lots of good stuff out there, but I've used Brownells for years.  Works fine.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1120/Product/UNIVERSAL-DO-DRILL

[quickdtoo]

I've used several different types, water soluable machinist's oil, Tap Magic, Craftsman and the latest is from LMS, Re-Li-On. Ace and True Value as well as Lowes and Home Depot all carry thread cutting oil.

Tim

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3088&category=