Author Topic: .270 Handi (Read 1928 times)

Vortex · « **on:** August 28, 2012, 12:57:00 PM »

Hello everyone, I'm glad to have finally found a forum dealing with the Handi rifles. I first must apologize as I have made it a rule to not join forums just for asking questions. I have broken that rule because I don't know how much information I can give to this already very informative forum. I'll try to help out with what knowledge I have, but for now I just have some .270 inquiries.

So I received a .270 Handi rifle for my 18'th birthday. It is an SB2 frame with a 22'' barrel, it came with a dark wood stain that I've since removed and applied my own finish ( which I'm not to happy with... the wood used is to light in color, I like dark hard woods ). I have changed the original scope out for a Center Point 4x16x40 with a 1" scope mount. The gun came with a cock assist ( don't know what you call it ) which makes coking the hammer easy with a scope on it. I have also added a bi-pod to the for-end. The gun is a Walmart gun..not throwing down on Walmart, I'm just saying its from a box store.

I got the gun a few years ago and have only put about 60 rounds through it...sadly. I'd like to put at least 20 more through it be sure its broken in. But the nearest rang is an hour away ( to many trees around me to scope in as 100 yards ). I have kept the in perfect condition hanging on my wall for the past few years.

So that's the short history of her life, now for some question and general inquirers if you don't mind. Since the gun has set for so long, should I have to re-break in the barrel?

Even though this is a box store gun, I have come to find out that its fairly well tuned. I'd like to reduce the trigger pull form a stock 5 pounds ( I think it comes stock that strong ), to a comfortable 2 or 3 pounds. I am fairly competent with my tools, so I feel completely comfortable doing most any work myself. I've looked through the FAG section, but could someone recommend a method to reduce the trigger pull weight...I'm being kinda lazy

I don't exactly know what to look for to determine the year of my gun, I'll post a picture of it further down the post, so could someone help me out there?

I've read that too much weight on the for-end could lead to poor accuracy. Is my bi-pod considered too much weight? I don't plan on having it on all the time, just for longer rang shots.

I have expectations that this gun will be a 100-600 yard rifle, am I asking to much from a 22" barrel? This gun will be used as intended, a saddle / truck gun, so the occasional long shot will portray itself now and again.

My dad is around 200 pounds and hes shot quite a bit through his life, and he says that this is a hard shooting gun. I just thought since it was a rifle, thats how hard it suppose to kick. I've shot shotguns all my life, but this things hurts after a day of shooting. Is there much in the world of recoil pads to reduce the kick of this thing?

I am being a little lazy on some of these questions, but most of them I know the answers to and I'm just fishing for reassurance. I'm sure I'll come up with more, but for right now thats all I have.

pictures

Thanks everyone for making this a great and very informative forum.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 29, 2012, 07:16:43 AM »

Welcome! You will have lots of kindred spirits to commune with here........
I suggest you get some lower scope rings to get the scope down to 'just clearing the hammer a tad', you want to cheek the stock, not chin it, but until you do:
Run one solvent wet patch through the barrel, then some dry ones before shooting it, then leave it dirty (dont clean it after each session).
Also, before shooting, clean the latch and shelf (the lock-up mechanism at the barrel back,bottom) of any oil; you want it dry.
Have fun!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #2 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:17:59 AM »

Welcome Vortex!

Unfortunately the only way to find out when your Handi frame was made is to call H&R(toll free 866-776-9292), the CBA prefix was made May 2008 or later, any H&R made prior to that will have different prefix, year of mfr can be determined by checking the build year list in the FAQs.

The "cock assist" is commonly called a hammer spur extension.

I've had several 270 Handis, none have struck me as having a lot of recoil even with 150gr elk loads, but felt recoil is different for everyone, if you compare the 270 Win with other non-magnum high power chamberings, recoil is about the same. If it's uncomfortable for you, you always have the option of adding weight to the stock or upgrading the recoil pad, both are covered in the FAQs.

Nice work on the stock refinish, there are some tips on refinishing Beech and Birch in the FAQs, the type of stain is the key to darkening the wood, IIRC leather die works well.

Tim

http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm

Rustyinfla · « **Reply #3 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:49:46 AM »

Welcome Vortex, IMHO the .270 is one of the best rounds going. You'll learn to love it in time.

Be sure to read and re-read the FAQ's they are most helpful.

Vortex · « **Reply #4 on:** August 29, 2012, 12:49:11 PM »

Thank you all for the information, and thank you for the warm welcomes.

The scope rings I'm suing right now are the ones that came with the scope. I had a lower set of ring on before and they barley cleared the spur extension (thank you for that piece of information) and when shooting the scope would nick the spur.I'll try and find the old rings I had before and show you what I mean.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** August 29, 2012, 01:17:57 PM »

You can prolly remove the very tip of the hammer spur that's above the extension and give you enough clearance, I've done that dozens of times on mine, use a file or dremel.

Tim

Vortex · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2012, 03:22:28 PM »

So I did some scope swapping and found out that the spur is not the problem, its the hammer that was hitting my scope. And the hammer was hitting because the scope had to much flex when firing. I'll blame this on a lesser quality scope ring ( they where factory rings ).

I liked the height of the factor scope rings, but I'll have to find a better quality set because when firing the scope would slide in the mount.

Heres some pics of the original setup I had.

Vortex · « **Reply #7 on:** September 05, 2012, 05:22:06 PM »

This site has been a load of help but I could use some help finding a bullet chart. I want to start stock piling up some ammo and I want your opinions on good grains to stock up on. I want to use the full potential of this round...using the lighter 90-130 grain rounds for longer /penitrating rounds and the heavier 140-160 grain for big take down. Right now I ahve some 130 and 150 grain, and thats about what I want to tune my scope to. But what are some recommended weights that you guys carry and like??

And back to the bullet chart, is there a chart that list bullet drop for differant grains over X amount of yards?? Or do i just ahve to spend 30 min or so looking up each grain specs?

ncloader88 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 05, 2012, 05:35:33 PM »

Go to the federal ammo site for a comprehensive chart of all of their available factory loads. they only have 130 and 150 listed, that is probably because the 270 shines with a 130 grain and will do almost anything you need it to.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 06, 2012, 03:39:55 AM »

The thought of having a spectrum of loads to choose from initially sounds attractive, but the reality is you would need to resight in for most when you would change. Not a terrible thing, though it can be expensive and time consuming. Having a load that does the job and you have complete confidence in is the ticket for me most of the time. By accounts I have followed the 130 is stellar in most cases for your caliber.

OSOK · « **Reply #10 on:** September 06, 2012, 04:30:40 AM »

+1 on what Crank said. The 130 gr. bullets in the .270 are probably the best for the caliber, unless you are after really big stuff like moose. To avoid having to use diffferent bullets/loads/repeated sighting in, you can use a premium bullet that will hold together and offer complete penetration. Examples are the Hornady GMX, Barnes TTSX, Nosler Partitions, etc. These bullets will give you a good flat trajectory and deep penetration. I have also found that these bullets cause less blood-shot meat than the typical ballistic tip bullets do.
If you don't reload yet, you need to start. If money is tight, start with the Lee Classic Loader. you don't need a reloading press, just a solid work surface, a mallet and powder/primers/bullets. Throw in a $20 Lee powder scale and you will turn out some mighty fine loads. The money you save over factory ammo with the bullets I listed will more that pay for the reloading equipment very quickly.
Your .270 is an outstanding weapon, enjoy it.

Vortex · « **Reply #11 on:** September 06, 2012, 03:04:47 PM »

Ok, so maybe I wont get a wide range of rounds..some further reading on the subject and your opinions has changed my mind. 130-150 Hornady and Federal are going to be my standard. I will however carry a magnum for the occasional large game. I'll tune my scope for the 130-150 grains since they shoot pretty much the same.

I'd like to get into reloading, but personally I think reloading is for more competition/target shooting. As long as I can set 2 or 3 shots inside a 4" round target at 400+ yards I'll be happy ( or am I dreaming a bit?? ).

fullup3 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 06, 2012, 03:13:43 PM »

You may be able to find some 130 grain and 150 grain loads that will have a similar point of impact at 100yds, but if you stretch them out to 200 or further the difference will be quite large....the difference in a miss or a wound. And 4" groups at 400yds is not necessarily dream material, but it would be very good for stock setup with factory ammo. The biggest deal at 400yds is going to be your breathing, trigger control, and the wind....the gun should be capable of moa at 400 with ammo that it likes the best.

OSOK · « **Reply #13 on:** September 07, 2012, 12:57:24 PM »

Like fullup3 said, 4" at 400 yards is more about you and the conditions. Theoretically, if your rifle is shooting 1 MOA at 100 yards, it SHOULD be capable of your goal. However, take it from a longtime sniper (military and law enforcement), a casual shooter will have a hard time doing 2 MOA (8 inches) at 400 yards.
Which is why I still suggest you take up reloading. More bangs for your buck means more time on the range, getting the practice you need for that 4" 400 yard group.
And, it means you get to create THE load your rifle loves more than any other, which lets it help you achieve your goal.
Factory ammo these days is quite good, but it is rare to find a factory load that can't be beat in accuracy with careful reloading.

fullup3 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 07, 2012, 03:56:34 PM »

Quote from: OSOK on September 07, 2012, 12:57:24 PM

Like fullup3 said, 4" at 400 yards is more about you and the conditions. Theoretically, if your rifle is shooting 1 MOA at 100 yards, it SHOULD be capable of your goal. However, take it from a longtime sniper (military and law enforcement), a casual shooter will have a hard time doing 2 MOA (8 inches) at 400 yards.
Which is why I still suggest you take up reloading. More bangs for your buck means more time on the range, getting the practice you need for that 4" 400 yard group.
And, it means you get to create THE load your rifle loves more than any other, which lets it help you achieve your goal.
Factory ammo these days is quite good, but it is rare to find a factory load that can't be beat in accuracy with careful reloading.

+1. This is what it's all about to me.....finding that load that your specific rifle/barrel is absolutely in love with!

gcrank1 · « **Reply #15 on:** September 07, 2012, 04:24:23 PM »

Reloading lets you make loads you cant buy, too. You wont save money by reloading either, but you will get way more shots per dollar spent. You pays yer money and you takes yer choice (I choose more shootin'!).

fullup3 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 07, 2012, 05:23:53 PM »

That's right, you actually spend more money reloading than buying factory...at least I do. For example, I just received a new barrel job today in 35 whelen for my handi. Rather than going to the store and buying a couple of boxes of corelokts or hornady ammo for 30bucks or so a box, I went to the shop and bout some $30 dies, a $46 box of bullets, $30 worth of brass, and two 1lb jugs of powder. Of course, I will get many, many more rounds out of this than the 40 or so factory, but cheaper it was not!

OSOK · « **Reply #17 on:** September 07, 2012, 09:30:41 PM »

Absolutely! You spend more, but in the long run you shoot a whole bunch more.
Around here, the factory ammo shooters buy a box, fire just enough rounds to hit the bullseye once, and save the rest of their bullets for hunting...and then blame the gun when they miss. The Handi Basics 101 sticky contains a lot of vital info on these fine weapons, things that we probably wouldn't know if all Handiholics were factory ammo shooters.
This time of the year I start getting asked to sight in hunting rifles. I guess people think that, because of my training, I have a magic technique that will save them ammo, and from missing. I'll be handed a rifle that looks like it was tied to the bumper of the truck and dragged to the range and a handful of cartridges that are a hodge podge of miss matched left over factory rounds that were bought who know how long ago. I'm expected to zero this thing and shoot a sub MOA group because they have seen me do it with a $2,000.00 rifle and match ammo. I try to educate them, explain things to them and in general try to convince them to be ethical hunters. Some listen, others don't. The ones with hearing problems usually leave upset, muttering about me trying to make snipers out of them and griping because I shot all their ammo...

Vortex · « **Reply #18 on:** September 10, 2012, 02:50:44 PM »

How would you guys suggest I go about removing the pins so I can access my trigger and other internals?? I got them out once before and they put up one hell of a fight. I've tried recently but they are persistent little buggers.

fullup3 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 10, 2012, 03:06:06 PM »

Quote from: OSOK on September 07, 2012, 09:30:41 PM

This time of the year I start getting asked to sight in hunting rifles. I guess people think that, because of my training, I have a magic technique that will save them ammo, and from missing.

That's funny. I had two friends send their rifles with me yesterday to sight them in for them because they heard me say I was going to shoot yday afternoon.

Quote from: Vortex on September 10, 2012, 02:50:44 PM

How would you guys suggest I go about removing the pins so I can access my trigger and other internals?? I got them out once before and they put up one hell of a fight. I've tried recently but they are persistent little buggers.

A real small punch or really small screwdriver, or maybe even a paperclip or other stiff wire.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #20 on:** September 10, 2012, 05:20:17 PM »

You do know they are splined on one side, right?

Vortex · « **Reply #21 on:** September 11, 2012, 03:08:26 AM »

Yes I know they are splined, and i highly doubt that a paperclip would even come close to moving them. I've got several nail sets and those seam to work the best. But I' still having a hard time getting them out. I read somewhere that you needed to have them pressed out.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #22 on:** September 11, 2012, 03:59:09 AM »

See the trigger work info in the FAQs sticky.

Tim

gcrank1 · « **Reply #23 on:** September 11, 2012, 04:36:05 AM »

You dont need to press out, but you do want close to a full pin dia. pin punch, and brass is nice (I got a set recently from Sportsman's Guide along with a nice Gunsmith Screwdriver and a Jag set very reasonably priced). Steel punches work though the flat face on most will concentrate the blow on the domed pin and may make a flat spot and, most importantly, want to 'skate' off to the side, so make sure the punch and hit are straight and square.
BTW, if you have a 'Farm & Fleet' or 'Fleet Farm' store they often have in the tools section individual steel punches; get a pin punch not the tapered shank one.

Vortex · « **Reply #24 on:** September 11, 2012, 08:40:48 AM »

Checking the FAQ's....

I do have several steel pin punches, but I'll try and find/rig up a brass or aluminum one.

OK, completely different topic, porting. I'm big into paintball ( the science and mechanics more than the game ) and air rifles. I can go on and on about the reasons for, the benefits of and what gun needs porting. But for sake of argument assume I know nothing about porting. is porting something I should look into for my barrel?

OSOK · « **Reply #25 on:** September 11, 2012, 09:32:52 AM »

It's up to you. There are trade-off's with porting high-powered rifles. If, and it's a big IF, you your porting/brake reduces recoil, you gain a huge increase in sound to you, the shooter. I don't have much experience with ported barrels, but I have shot a bunch with muzzle brakes. A brake on a .270 should show a fair degree of reduced recoil and muzzle climb due to the amout and velocity of gasses being expelled out the muzzle. I have fired a .25-06 with an older AWC Hyperdyne muzzle brake. I does a good job without the increase in noise to the shooter. I have also fired several AR rifles with Noveske KX3's, which do an awesome job with the noise, but maybe not as much with the recoil as others.
To me a .270 doesn't kick that bad, but I enjoy shooting my .45-70 Buffalo Classic with 450 grain bullets going 1500 fps. If it unpleasant for you, and the money is worth it to you, go for it. I would recomend going with a company with a reputation for no loss in accuracy.

Vortex · « **Reply #26 on:** September 11, 2012, 03:35:12 PM »

How would you put a break on my barrel? I'd assume you would have to use a die and cut threads on the outside to match the break. I also assume that its highly recommended for a smith to do this work.

I want some sort for barrel protector since my gun is a saddle gun and it will see its share of dirty work. I'd rather not fill my barrel with dirt (idealy your barrel remains a dirt virgin all its life, but you can never be to careful)

OldSchoolRanger · « **Reply #27 on:** September 11, 2012, 05:57:38 PM »

Quote from: Vortex on September 11, 2012, 03:35:12 PM

How would you put a break on my barrel? I'd assume you would have to use a die and cut threads on the outside to match the break. I also assume that its highly recommended for a smith to do this work.

If you really want to put a brake on the rifle have a gunsmith do it. Personally, I would pass on that, the noise trade off to me is not worth it. If the felt recoil is too much for you, I would recommend installing a "Limbsaver" recoil pad on your rifle.

Quote from: Vortex on September 11, 2012, 03:35:12 PM

I want some sort for barrel protector since my gun is a saddle gun and it will see its share of dirty work. I'd rather not fill my barrel with dirt (idealy your barrel remains a dirt virgin all its life, but you can never be to careful)

Use electrical tape over the muzzle, that's what I used in the Nam, not pretty, but it does the job. When you need to shoot, just shoot through it, no muss or fuss regarding removal of the tape.

OSOK · « **Reply #28 on:** September 11, 2012, 06:01:53 PM »

I do what Ranger does. Like he said, it's old trick, but it works. The air trapped in the barrel gets compressed by the bullet rushing at it and gets blown clear, so it has no effect on accuracy.

Vortex · « **Reply #29 on:** September 12, 2012, 04:21:17 PM »

Yep, I know that trick as well as the condom trick. But I'm looking for something more permanent and something to keep foreign objects away from my barrel. I know its a stupid comparison, but when playing paintball once I dug a hole by accident with my barrel. Had I put my barrel break on I would only had to clean it out instead of my barrel. I see barrel breaks as a protector rather than noise or recoil dampeners. If I want to dampen noise and reduce recoil, I'll drill compensators in the barrel or get a silencer.