Author Topic: forged iron rings (Read 1376 times)

Zulu · « **on:** July 27, 2012, 07:02:07 AM »

I need two iron rings for a carriage I'm building. I'm looking for 3/4" or 7/8" round material with a 3 3/4" to 4" OD.
I'm having a tough time finding them unless I buy 1000 from China.
I usually make my own but I couldn't get 3/4" material hot enough with my torch. I was going to wrap it around a 2" pipe (2 3/8" OD).
Any one have any ideas?
Zulu

GGaskill · « **Reply #1 on:** July 27, 2012, 07:22:33 AM »

I was thinking about using my heat treat oven to heat the blanks but they would be too long (about 12 ") for it unless the rings were made in two pieces. But how about building a charcoal fire (or real coal if readily available) and heating them in that? You could use a fan or vacuum cleaner or leaf blower to accelerate the burning of the fuel for a hotter fire. Might take a while but it should work.

moose53 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 27, 2012, 07:28:56 AM »

Might be a good time to invest in a rosebud for your torch .

Zulu · « **Reply #3 on:** July 27, 2012, 07:54:19 AM »

George. I have a propane forge that would do that. The problem with heating all of it at once is that it won't bend where you want it to. It will just make a big "U". I thought about sliding a piece of 1" conduit over it so I could control the bend. Only the part sticking out of the pipe would bend that way. I'm not sure if the rod would stay hot enough in the pipe to complete the bend. If it didn't, then you're pulling it off the mandrel and reheating it. I'm not sure how that would work.

Moose,
I have heated and bent 3/4" a lot before with my torch. But I was always just bending 90 degrees. It worked fine for that.
I do have a rosebud that someone gave me years ago but I have never used it. You think that would work?
Zulu

jeeper1 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 27, 2012, 08:32:09 AM »

I would think that a blacksmith could make them.

moose53 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 27, 2012, 09:10:34 AM »

Should be no problem to tack weld one end and heat and bend as you go around a 2 inch pipe, making as many coils as you need . Just cut them off and hammer flat .

carmy53 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 27, 2012, 09:29:33 AM »

PM inbound with a source

GGaskill · « **Reply #7 on:** July 27, 2012, 09:56:15 AM »

A rosebud is much more appropriate for heating things.

armorer77 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 27, 2012, 01:40:42 PM »

The trick to hot bending a ring is to get up to heat and then hammer and bend and move the hot spot around the radius of your guide . Armorer77

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #9 on:** July 27, 2012, 03:08:53 PM »

One COULD have it machined from solid stock.

de_lok · « **Reply #10 on:** July 27, 2012, 03:36:29 PM »

Industrial I-bolts (without seating flange) like the ones used to rig heavy equipment to a crane, may be available with a ring size you need. Just cut the threaded part off, grind and polish round. This would probably be a more cost effective way also as you only need two pieces. Can be found at most mailorder industrial suppliers....................................

I have used this method to make some nice looking lunettes...............

Max Caliber · « **Reply #11 on:** July 28, 2012, 01:28:33 AM »

Coil springs are good for making rings. Lots of different sizes can usually be found in scrap yards. I also use coil springs for making tools and edge weapons. I heat them in my forge and unwind them. Here is a photo of a spear point being forged from a piece of coil spring.

Zulu · « **Reply #12 on:** July 28, 2012, 02:12:23 AM »

To use my rosebud, what pressure settings should I use on my oxygen and acetylene?
Zulu

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #13 on:** July 28, 2012, 03:17:27 AM »

If I custom make one, I cut it out with hole saws on the mill from plate stock. Mount on the rotary table and mill the OD and ID smooth. Then chase the sharp edges with the appropriate size radius cutter. Cutting it out with a plasma or saw and then using radius cutters works well when you don't want to go all the way around 360 degrees such as on a lunette.

Maybe what you are looking for is called a "forged steel drawbar"...?? Buyers nos. LW10, BDB12281, BDB1238, BDB12503, BDB12492H... Also BUYERS MAKES FORGED RINGS called "forged lunette eyes". They are available from most folks who sell trailer parts especially the 18 wheeler type trailers. In the West SIX ROBBLESS carries them. They have two sizes that are both 3" ID with a 1" and 1 5/8" cross-section diameter. Look under pintle hitches for the drawbars.

http://sixrobblees.com/index.aspx?sNode=22&EXP=Y&bIL=True

Buy a forged eyebolt and grind the shank off. They come in every size imagineable.
Buyers stock # B56730 is 3 9/16" OD with a 1 13/16" hole and #B56731 is 4 1/4 OD with a 2" hole. Other mfgrs. have a greater variety of sizes. I have used Buyer's L10 a couple times (2.5" ID by 4.5" OD and a 1" cross-section diameter. McMaster-Carr carries forged eyebolts and they will give you most all the dimensions. The shank diameter is usually the ring's cross-section diameter. Go to page 1495...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#

GOW

GLS · « **Reply #14 on:** July 28, 2012, 04:44:04 AM »

Zulu, One of these might work.
http://www.westechrigging.com/rigging-hardware-rings-crosby-rings-s-643-round-rings.html

moose53 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 28, 2012, 05:11:00 AM »

Here is a link to to torch settings http://www.artic.edu/webspaces/portal/irfm/IntroOxyAcetylene.pdf . I use propane instead of acetylene , much cheaper but acetylene works good . Recommended setting for acetylene is 8 psi on the regulator and 35-45 psi on oxygen depending on torch size. If you want to try propane you can use the same settings and hookups just takes a little different method to light .

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #16 on:** July 28, 2012, 07:35:06 AM »

Use the method you describe using conduit or schedule 40 ... you'll have to start with a little longer piece of material that what is required for the net ring.

GOW

Zulu · « **Reply #17 on:** July 28, 2012, 07:36:12 AM »

Mission accomplished!

I'm not going to tell you it was easy. $:-\$
I've had that rosebud for about 13 years. I've never used it. WOW!!!

That thing throws some heat!
I tried wrapping around the same 2 3/8" OD pipe I always use for 1/2" bar and the pipe got so hot it bent.
Then I tried it again with a heavier walled pipe and it worked. I made one at a time.
To close them I had to put them in the propane forge, heat them red hot and flatten them on the anvil. Then I welded them.
They are 3/4" material, 3 7/8"OD.
They are sitting on a 313 lb. anvil.
Zulu

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #18 on:** July 28, 2012, 07:41:01 AM »

"Get it", "Got it", "Good!!"

GOW

moose53 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 28, 2012, 07:52:24 AM »

I see you " Got er done" . Knowing how to do something is worth much more then the finished product.

armorer77 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 28, 2012, 09:51:36 AM »

Great work . Nice anvil . Ed

Zulu · « **Reply #21 on:** July 28, 2012, 10:17:31 AM »

What a fun day to play with fire. 98 degrees!

Zulu

de_lok · « **Reply #22 on:** July 28, 2012, 02:14:27 PM »

Hammer Good ! ! !.......

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #23 on:** July 28, 2012, 02:30:26 PM »

Quote from: Zulu on July 28, 2012, 10:17:31 AM

What a fun day to play with fire. 98 degrees!
Zulu

That's just less propane getting up to red hot!

mechanic · « **Reply #24 on:** July 28, 2012, 02:45:26 PM »

Good job Zulu. Believe it or not, that is one of the most difficult tasks for a smith. I have an adjustable bending jig, but I've never tried over 5/8 stock on it. Even with that, the last bit has to be done on the horn of the anvil, and trued by hand.

I've just got my forge set back up after moving here several years ago. Now I'm waiting for cooler weather. It was 102 here today. Kudos for braving the heat.

Ben