Any tricks for cleaning chamber mouths in 38/357?

[jpuke]

I've been shooting a bunch of 38 Special (158 gr. lead) in my SP101 and when I went to shoot some 357 Mag, the rounds were hard to chamber.  I remember reading that shooting the shorter 38's will gunk up the chambers ahead of the case mouth when shooting the shorter 38's - does anyone have any tricks for getting the lead out?  I had the gun taken apart so access to the cylinder wasn't an issue.

I used brass brushes, brass brushes wrapped in copper scrub pad, JB bore paste and got about 70% of it out.  I'd like to get it all out if possible.

[tacklebury]

There are lead removers, or you can buy a gunsmith pick or use a hard piece of plastic or brass.  You can also use a lead scraper for a .32 cal muzzle loader (brass).  There are some chemical products that loosen the stuff right up too.  Might be able to just submerge the cylinder in it for a few and then clean it out.  I don't use em, but someone will chime in with the names most likely. 

[Graybeard]

Brass bore brush chucked in an electric drill gets it out faster than anyhing else I've tried. That's pretty much the only use I have for bore brushes.

[BigM-Perazzi]

You might try this if your going to shoot a lot.
I use a modified S&W 66-1 for PPC, and I know what your going thru.

http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/accessories/Removing-Lead-Fouling189-1.html

[JoeG52]

Brass bore brush chucked in an electric drill gets it out faster than anyhing else I've tried. That's pretty much the only use I have for bore brushes.

Exactly the way I do it. Works great.

[3030guy]

2nd the bore brush in a drill. That's why I don't use lead anymore, the savings did not seem to offset the cost of cleaning supplies, time and effort.

[jpuke]

I've got a drill press so I'll try the drill - thanks for the advice. 

[rockshooter]

Next time you're at a gun show that has military surplus stuff, pick up a M-14 ratcheting chamber brush. It is the perfect size for .38/.357 chambers and is made from really stiff brass. The ratchet makes using it really easy. Or use a worn .44/.45 bore brush in a drill, as noted above.
Loren

[irold]

Again , the drill thing works well.  Also , use a .40 or even a .44 cal brush in the cylinder ahead of the throat.  Carefull pushing a " large" brush into the throat , may damage it if the metal part of the brush is rubbing against it. Thats pretty much why I've gone to using .357 brass for all my .357 handguns.  Even if I'm loaded down to .38 spl velocities , I'm not leaving the gunk ahead of the throat.
 
regards , irold

[StrawHat]

You can also take a 357 casing and cut a few jags on the mouth to resemble a saw blade.  Attache a handle to it and give it one or two turns.  I made a couple of them years ago and they worked fine, especially when on the range.

[woods]

I'm useing a lewis lead remover kit works fine on my handguns although I do order extra brass patches. Does a good job removeing lead from rifleing and forcing cone also with the acessories provided. I have them in 357, 41, and 44. I know the bore brush trick with the drill works just don't like doing it allways wory about scratching the chamber somehow or loosing hold of the cylinder (that might get ugly).
 
 
 woods

[hitman54]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned soaking it in Kroil. I shoot lead in several handguns and rifles. Before I learned how to cast/load so that I didn't have leading problems I used Kroil extensively for lead removal. Kano Labs advertises it as a metal release agent. It does work. I bought a gal. of it from Sinclair last year and use it for anything that gets stuck.

[keith44]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned soaking it in Kroil. I shoot lead in several handguns and rifles. Before I learned how to cast/load so that I didn't have leading problems I used Kroil extensively for lead removal. Kano Labs advertises it as a metal release agent. It does work. I bought a gal. of it from Sinclair last year and use it for anything that gets stuck.

Ya beat me to it hitman,


I soak barrels and cylinders in Kroil, then use the bore brush in a cordless drill.  Works on everything from .22 LR to .45-70's (at least everything I've tried)

[m-g Willy]

To clean the chamber and to get led out of the barrel I use the brass cleaning pads the wife has for scrubbing pans.
I take an old bore brush then cut the scrubbing pad in half and tear off some strands .
I wrap the strands around the bore brush and push it through the barrel a few times .
You will be amazed out the amount of lead it scrapes out!
A few twists in the chambers and the chamber mouths will look like new.

[gypsyman]

Hitman54-Keith44 + 1 Use Kroil and let it soak, sometimes overnight. Tornado brush's by Hoppe's work faster than standard bristle brush also. If you can't get Tornado brush's, get the next size up in stainless steel.(use .40 for a .357,.45 in a .44) I know that you hear that a stainless brush scratch's , but try this experiment. Run a stainless across your thumb, and really push down hard. Doesn't remove any skin. And, to the best of my knowledge, gun metal is harder than flesh. Trick is to push all the way thru, before bringing back. If you have a gun that a stainless brush scratch's the chamber or barrel, pretty soft metal, what's the bullet doing when you actually shoot the gun?gypsyman

[SHOOTALL]

lee lead removal tool with the brass screen or brass screen over a tight fitting mop or brush works also.

[Rutin2tin]

Depending on the severity of the leading issue, as others have stated, I'd chuck a brush in a drill first.
Should that fail to remove the leading, there are cylinder hones available for around $20....but You MUST buy the proper honing oil as well.
These little gems will polish the cylinder bore to a new finish in just a few seconds, when chucked into a drill motor.
http://www.amazon.com/Pistol-Handgun-Chamber-Flex-Hone-Cylinder/dp/B0061FO6P8

[gcrank1]

A variable speed electric drill with a section of cleaning rod to screw the brush onto (you do not want to inadvertently run drill chuck jaws up into your cylinder), then wrap the brush with some strands of 0000 steel wool, drip some Kroil on it  (if you have it, if not use whatever penetrating oil you have) and carefully spin in. Leading will be be removed cheaply and quickly without damage to the steel, either carbon or stainless.