Remington Gamemaster Model 760 Takedown

[Tillerwm2014]

 Hi,
I just purchased a Remington Model 760 Gamemaster, and am trying to disassemble it in order to clean it for the first time.  I am having trouble getting the Action tube off.  I know there are two holes you are supposed to insert a steel rod through and twist counter-clockwise to unscrew, but it won't budge.  I noticed there is a pin, about a quarter inch from the front cap on the tube, that looks like it goes all the way through the tube, and possibly through the cap thread.  Could this be preventing me from removing the tube?  I haven't heard mention of it on any forums or videos, so I'm a little stumped.  I've had quite the time removing that as well, and have so far been unsuccessful.  Got any ideas?
SN: 147027 (1951 Mfg Block)
Cal: .30-06 Sprg.
Model:  760 Gamemaster

Thanks,
Chris.

[Bugflipper]

Sorry it's late and I can't figure out which you are trying to do. To get the screw off the end of the magazine tube, punch the little pin out first. To unscrew the magazine tube from the receiver use a punch and turn it counter clockwise. If it is to hard to remove soak with a penetrating oil like kroil, break free, liquid wrench or whatever. A better home solution is half mineral spirits to half atf fluid for a penetrating oil. After reading again it sounds like the first, but I will leave the second one there as well just in case you want to do that too.
Have a good day.

[Tillerwm2014]

Awesome!  Yeah, it took a bit of muscle once I got the pin out, but she came free and I'm on my way to getting all the gunk and deposits out.  Thanks!

[Dave in WV]

Sometimes a bit of heat on the tube the forearm slides on helps. Remington started using something like loctite on the bolt that holds the tube to the receiver. I don't think it was used on the older models like yours.

[Tillerwm2014]

Yeah, that would make sense.  Next time I'll probably steal my wife's hair dryer or pick up a torch or something to speed the process.  Thanks for the advice!

[oneoldsap]

                You done a bad and unnessary thing , removing the cap from the action tube ! It was staked in place for a reason , the action tube will screw right off with the cap on it , it's not meant to be removed ! I have fixed many that have had this done to them by uninformed DIYers ! If you'd like to PM me when you put it back together , I'll help you make it right . Remingtons are dated by letter codes on the left side of the barrel just forward of the receiver . If you have 3 letters and the last two are YY then your gun was manufactured in 1952 , XX is 1951 and I've never seen it on a 760 so it would be a rare one !

[Dave in WV]

Yeah, that would make sense.  Next time I'll probably steal my wife's hair dryer or pick up a torch or something to speed the process.  Thanks for the advice!

A hair dryer won't do the trick. A torch will but only use enough heat to break the bond. On small screws like on scope bases you can use a soldering iron to heat the screws enough.

[Tillerwm2014]

Really?  okay that is good to know for future reference.  I re-did the bluing on all pieces because it was worn and rusted in quite a few places, so any scratches will have gone by now.  At any rate, how do I put it right?  When I took it apart, it was about a quarter turn from the stops, as far as tightening it goes, so I figured I'd tighten it to the stops and then twist it back to where the pin holes line up where they were before.  I'll definitely check the code and see for you!  The serial number is 147'027, and the first mfg block went from 1'000 to 500'000 in 1951.  That's all I know so far.  It also has the original aluminum floorplate that predates 1961 when they started making them with a plastic or rubber one instead.  It took quite a bit of work to get her cleaned up.  Lots of rust in the receiver, copper and powder fowling in the breach and all through the barrel.  Probably took me half an hour to get the barrel clean itself.  I was surprised to see though, that the trigger mechanism was quite clean and well functioning.  No rust, just a lot of built up gunk.  I'll post a picture when I've got it put back together.
Thanks
Chris.

[Bugflipper]

Tillerwm2014, the simple way is to just tighten it until it stops, then back up to where the pin lines up. Should be the 1/4 turn your talking about. It's just there to keep the screw from backing out. I never knew it as being an issue until oneoldsap brought it up. BTW not trying to be contrary at all oneoldsap. Would like to know what the problems encountered and remedies were that you were speaking of. I have always tore them down completely for bluing. Never ran into a problem. On occasion had to order a new screw because they were buggered up bad from folks trying to get it off with the pin still in, but that's it.
Thanks

[oneoldsap]

Tillerwm2014, the simple way is to just tighten it until it stops, then back up to where the pin lines up. Should be the 1/4 turn your talking about. It's just there to keep the screw from backing out. I never knew it as being an issue until oneoldsap brought it up. BTW not trying to be contrary at all oneoldsap. Would like to know what the problems encountered and remedies were that you were speaking of. I have always tore them down completely for bluing. Never ran into a problem. On occasion had to order a new screw because they were buggered up bad from folks trying to get it off with the pin still in, but that's it.
Thanks

                          I have no idea what you are calling a screw , that has to do with the action tube . The cap doesn't have to be removed to remove the action tube . Nor should it be . As I said , it's staked in place . It's only job is to hold the brush guard against the barrel , and keep flotsom out of the action tube . If not restaked in the right place , it will be able to turn and interfere with the action closing all the way . I've been working on these pumps for a long time , and I still can't figure out what pin you are removing to get the action tube or cap off !

[oneoldsap]

Really?  okay that is good to know for future reference.  I re-did the bluing on all pieces because it was worn and rusted in quite a few places, so any scratches will have gone by now.  At any rate, how do I put it right?  When I took it apart, it was about a quarter turn from the stops, as far as tightening it goes, so I figured I'd tighten it to the stops and then twist it back to where the pin holes line up where they were before.  I'll definitely check the code and see for you!  The serial number is 147'027, and the first mfg block went from 1'000 to 500'000 in 1951.  That's all I know so far.  It also has the original aluminum floorplate that predates 1961 when they started making them with a plastic or rubber one instead.  It took quite a bit of work to get her cleaned up.  Lots of rust in the receiver, copper and powder fowling in the breach and all through the barrel.  Probably took me half an hour to get the barrel clean itself.  I was surprised to see though, that the trigger mechanism was quite clean and well functioning.  No rust, just a lot of built up gunk.  I'll post a picture when I've got it put back together.
Thanks
Chris.

                  I don't know where you are gleening your S/N info from , but it's bogus . Remington never date coded with serial numbers , up to 2002 anyways . But then I repeat myself . I'm sure that , having just bought your first 760 , you are much more experienced than some one who has owned and worked on them for forty years . I have knowledge of these guns that I'm willing to share with folks that know they don't know !

[Rick Teal]

I can't seem to put my hands on my copy of the Blue Book right now, but if I remembrer correctly, the 760s first year of manufacture was 1952.  I happen to own a 1952 model, so that's why it sticks in my mind.

[oneoldsap]

             That would be correct Mr. Teal , and none of them were tapped for scope mounting !