Author Topic: Pillar bedding (Read 702 times)

Spot Shooter · « **on:** January 21, 2004, 01:29:57 PM »

Any on you ever pillar bed an A-bolt?

I've got a 300WSM A-bolt and am getting ready to pillar bed it. So far the only thing I know is that I'm going to leave the pillar's flat instead of trying to round them to fit the action. Other than that I'm going to measure the wood, and the distance between the metal work while they are screw'd together the # of turns they are while installed, and the first time I put them in I'm thinking about applying only enough epoxy so I can break them out if they don't take right. (these suggestions came from a good friend - Dave)

Thanks,
Spot

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 21, 2004, 07:23:09 PM »

I guess the first thing I'd like ask is, why are you pillar bedding this rifle.. Pillar beddings purpose is to stop all changes in the relationship between the barreled action and the stock(the bedding). So if the rifle's not performing up to par, what you need to do is fix the 'bedding' before applying pillars. After that I would note that I usually use the cast in place pillars as they are much easier to install and just as effective. The metal pillars work best if they fit so that there is not movement of the ,etal in the wood, when the action screws are tight..

Spot Shooter · « **Reply #2 on:** January 22, 2004, 12:26:05 PM »

Gunnut,

Well, you might have a good question there. The gun shoots pretty tight, and I'm not having problems with it.

I would like to pillar bed to get the experience, and see for myself if it makes any difference. I hang out with some folks that think you just about have to pillar bed a rifle.

That's why I was seeing if anyone has done this one.

Thanks,
Spot

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 22, 2004, 07:05:30 PM »

I hear that a lot. I have worked with guns for 35-40 years. Pillar bedding isn't done to fix bad bedding, it is done to prevent wood compression and recoil shock from altering an already good bedding. It is simply the act of adding non-compressable sleeves sorrounding the action screws(front and rear only). If the bedding is already solid there should be no change either way when pillars are installed. Bedding a rifle will create a situation such that when the action screws are tightened the action does NOT move and there is even bearing of the action in the stock mortice. The barrel may or may not be incontact with the forearm of the stock. The recoil lug(lugs) are in solid contact on their rear bearing surfaces with the recoil shelves in the stock. This will evenly transmit recoil force to the stock and to the shooter. If that is all true and you wish to stabilize that to avoid compression the the stock by the action screws and recoil forces then apply the pillars. They must be perfectly sized(in length) so that they stop the force of the action screw stress, not the stock material. It's not overly difficult and if done correctly will give you a rifle that should remain stabile almost forever. I've done a truck load. I usually use pillars poured of Accraglass(reinforced with aluminum dust). I have installed solid pillars but do that in a two step procedure to be certain the pillars are the right length.

Dave in WV · « **Reply #4 on:** January 23, 2004, 04:21:58 AM »

Spot Shooter, there's an old saying, "it it ain't broke, don't fix it!" It is in fact your rifle, but if it's a good shooter I wouldn't mess with it. You could find an old Savage for near nothing if you looked and get a laminated stock from Midway USA and practice on it. Just a thought.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 23, 2004, 08:38:07 AM »

Dave has a point, but pillar bedding is not really a fix, it is a preventative. It stops the wood from the natural compression that occurs from the constant tension of the action screws. Glass bedding can be used to fix 'bad' bedding so it's a kind of fix although bedding a recoil lug can help farstall the compression caused by recoil. this normally doesn't present much of a problem though unless the fit between the recoil lug and it's abutment in the stock is not up to par. If there is any slack the recoil lug will have a run at the abutment and will batter it in no time. Normally compression of the recoil abutment in the stock is very slow because the compressing force is momentary and the wood will recover somewhat between cycles(firings). The force of the action screws is constant and if the wood gives, the screws loosen and we tighten them up! Poured pillars are the easiest and seem to work as well as the metal variety. If you want to try them, I think I have a file that gives directions. I may have already posted it and if I have a search of this sight will find it.. If there are questions, please feel free...

Spot Shooter · « **Reply #6 on:** January 23, 2004, 05:59:22 PM »

So Gunnut, what's you process for putting in pillars.

The Abolt is already bedded and free floated from the factory, but the bedding compound isn't super hard.

Thanks,
Spot

gunnut69 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 23, 2004, 09:53:55 PM »

I haven't worked on a Browning for quite some time. Their brothers the Winchesters use a thermal setting material as bedding, read hot glue gun material.. I usually remove it and replace with acraglass(gel).. But if the rifle shoots as you like, just put in the pillars. I pour pillars in place much as you would a glass bedding job. I use acraglass gel as it stays in place a bit better than others and it doesn't seem to get quite as brittle as some I've tried. I mix in the reccomended amount of atomized aluminum for a bit of re-enforcement. I use paste wax as a release agent. Be sure to coat the actions screws(better yet stockmakers handscrews are easier to remove). fill areas that may receive any overflow with non-hardening modeling clay and wax also. I drill the action screw holes in the stock out quite large. Too large to allow the drill to exit the bottom metal inletting, but be certain to allow the drill to enter the bottom metal inletting to allow fullest contact with the trigger guard assembly. I usually remove unneeded parts and assemblies such as the magazine assembly of the Browning and the trigger assembly. Since a skin tight fit is needed a groove is cut from the newly drilled clearance holes in the stock to the magazinbe or trigger clearance cut in the stock. This allowed the stock to be tightened completely between the bottom metal and the action. Tape the bottom metal and the handscrews in place and pour the accraglass mixture around the screws, filling the clearance holes to just over full. Be extra cautious to avoid trapping air bubbles when mixing the accraglass. I sometimes use a Vibra-Tec case cleaner to vibrate the mixed epoxy which will cause the bubbles to rise before making the pour. Pour the material into one side of the clearance so that they fill from the bottom up. When slightly past full install the barreled action and tighten the handscrews. The excess should squeeze out the overflow groove we had made. Allow to set up to the very hard rubber state. At this point the material can be cut with a sharpened toothbrush handle which won't damage a guns finish. Remove any bedding that has flowed out and loosen the barreled action and the bottom metal from the stock. The bottom metal needn't be removed nor do the screws. Just loosen the bedding's grip. This will make cleanup a bunch easier.. Reassemble and allow to fully harden. Disassemble and cleanup the flash(ooze out) from where ever found. You are looking for a nice round pillar with at least 75% contact with the action and the bottom metal. Drill the screw holes thru the pillars to at least 3/8 inch. These screws must never touch the sides of the clearance holes in the pillars. Thoroughly clean all surfaces and apply preservative. Reassemble and shoot away. A word of caution. Don't over tighten the action screws(or handscrews) when making the initial pour.. and allow the material to completely harden before torquing down the action screws on assembly. I usually wait 48 hours after the pour to reassemble. Once the pillars are completely hardened they will be nearly uneffected by the pressure of the action screws..

Spot Shooter · « **Reply #8 on:** January 24, 2004, 04:16:18 AM »

Gunnut,

Wow, I'm going to have to read that half a dozen times.
Great info, I'll try to use it when I do the job.

Thanks a bunch!

Spot

gunnut69 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 24, 2004, 07:55:15 AM »

Sorry for the wordy-ness.. There are so many little tricks you do without thinking after a while and then realize that everyone hasn't done 25 of these so need to know that you need to keep the epoxy out of some places as a mechanical lock will bond a stock to an action as easily as will the gluing action of the bedding... I need to sit down and write an article for AmericanGunsmith on just pillar bedding... If you have any questions just feel free,be glad to help if I can..