Browning vs. Blueing

[Spot Shooter]

Fella's,


     Which one and why, I know blueing, but not browning???  I'm getting ready to order that GPR kit I've been talking about.

    If I brown it, I've heard taking my time will give me a deep plum color???  What tip's if any do you have, I'm willing to brown it but want it to look real nice.

RollingB & Waksupi - Got my Lee .530 Round ball molds today  :grin:

Spot

[rollingb]

Spot
WELCOME!! to Graybeards!!
I"m still have"n problems with this danged "puter
A commercial solution called "Plum Brown" gives good results jest follow the directions< I also like to apply a "coat" of "Tru Oil" to the barrel after neutrilizen the brown"n soulution

Glad to hear ya got a mold< now all ya need is tha riflegun

[clodbuster]

Browning is nothing but causing rust to form very quickly, then smoothing
that rust coat without removing all of it.  Then do it again and again until youre happy with it.  This gives a true brown color in most cases.  If you want the plum color it is neccessary to use Birchwood Casey Plumbrown.
With this you must heat the metal very hot until the applied solution sizzles.  Wash it off and do it again and again until youre happy.  I think the cold system is much easier and gives more reliable results.  I've had trouble getting the color even with Plumbrown and breathing the steaming vapors is nicht gut fur zie.  Barrel prep is everything with either system and never touch the barrel with bare fingers during the process.

[crow_feather]

There are as many browning solutions as there were beaver prior to 1830.  Rifles were also blued at that time, although I find the brown barrel the better looking.

One person says to plug the barrel and chuck it into a pile of cow - barrel browning stuff.  One article I read said bacon grease does well - it does.

I have used brownells solution that requires heat and have had no problems with it.  It does not require the amount of heat other barrel browners require and does a great job.  I can usually brown the barrel and other metal fittings in one day of work and if I do my part well, the barrel comes out looking good.

Best of all, it's so easy that I can do it.

C F

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

The problem I've run into with barrel browning on the GPR is heating that length of barrel.  If you know someone who owns a pizza shop, they usually have really big ovens that can easily fit a 32" barrel in "after hours".  Otherwise you're stuck fiddling around with a torch or burner.

Obviously this is not an issue with cold browning.

Other options:  Finish it "in-the-white".  This means just polishing the metal and leaving it as-is.  You can then let it develop it's own natural patina over time.

Or Charcoal Blueing.  This is NOT the same as the cold blueing or other chemical blueing that is used for modern guns.  In fact muzzle loaders are probably the only gun you can do this with, as the process anneals the barrel.  Muzzle loader barrels are already soft so an annealing process doesn't change much.  The Charcoal Blue finish looks different than the modern blues.  It's more "blue" and less "black".

[swecology]

Spot shooter,

See my post under "barrel prep for finishing".  I am at the end of browing my GPR barrel also.  This might be of help.

Matt

[Firehawk]

Spot Shooter,

I browned the barrel on my Cabelas Hawken last winter.  I am VERY pleased with the results.  I used the Birchwood Casey Plum brown solution.  I actually went through two bottles, because I did so many coats.  This way I have a very even finish on my rifle's barrel.  It is definitely brown, but a very deep dark brown finish.  I had seen some barrels where they had only done one or two coatings and the finish looked "cheap".

I used a propane torch to heat the barrel and then used cotton balls to apply the solution.  worked perfectly IMO.  The only mark on the barrel now after many many trips to the rifle range for "play time" is the marks I made trying to install a different front bead.  :oops:  I was an idiot and made a few ugly marks on my rifle barrel.  Never use a "hole punch" to move the sight unless you are very sure you won't miss. :x  :x  :x

Anyways, I am very happy with the pure, deep finish that I got doing my barrel.  I followed the directions PRECISELY and did about 6-7 applications.  I also used the Birchwood Casey "Sheath" oil after every application.  I think that may have been what helped with the "deepness" of the brown.

Good Luck!  Firehawk

[BS]

Barrel Brown an Degreaser, by Laurel Mountain Forge.............is the best that I have used, no heat or streaking..........only draw back is that it works best in a humidity box.......................Second choice, bead blast and blue..............