Author Topic: Linning a barrel, barrel extension? (Read 756 times)

Will52100 · « **on:** January 13, 2004, 06:02:26 PM »

I've got an idea that's been running through my head for a while, and I thought I'd run it by yall befor I go to cutting and grinding.

I am planning to convert a Ubertia 1847 colt walker repo to a carbine.

What I am planning on doing is building a sholder stock for the gun, mill out new trigger gaurd and back strap with straight tanges and a wrist prop to keep the off hand behind the cylinder. Taking the barrel lug(the part the the cylinder wedge suports) and cut the barrel off even with the blocky part where the barrel becomes round. Then drill out the rifling and turn an apropriat 45 cal muzeloading barrel down to slip in the bored out lug and braze at both ends. the finsihed barrel length will be 18", and I plan on leaving a little extra sticking up where the forcing cone will be to grind off and get the right cylinder headspace.

My question is will the braze job be sealed enough? I asume that brass will only go a little ways in both joints and there will only be metal to metal unfused in the center section. I know the old trap doors were linned in a similar fassion and have stood the test of time. I just want to make sure that my little carbine will too.

The gun will definatly see max loads(60 grain 3f charges), so a better barrel wedge will be milled out also. The walker tends to eat wedges for lunch. Also a failing of the walker was the loading lever droped under recoil so a better loading lever latch will be made for it.

Will this work?

Thanks

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2004, 06:32:42 PM »

Off hand I can't see why not, but it's late and I'm headed for bed, so I may not be totally awake.. How much barrel wall thickness will left after it's turned to fit the lug? why not just thread the barrel into the mono block section? Would make rebarreling quicker. The oldertimers brazed them together mainly because its so much quicker than threading.. Speed is NOT of the essence here though.. I'd wonder about the material the barrel lug is made of. I really don't see anything that can't be worked out.. Keep us apprised of your progress.

Will52100 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2004, 11:18:21 PM »

Thanks gunnut, I was thinking of something like that, say about a 1/2" to an inch of threads, and seal everything with JB weld. The thing is I want a permanent bond.

If I had some way to riffle a barrel I would just rough machine a barrel and lug from solid stock and have it riffled. That would be ideal for my way of over building everything.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 14, 2004, 05:15:00 AM »

Thread the whole lug and allow enough to extend thru to form the extension or throat...from the lug to the cylinder. An interference fit pin should be all that's needed to keep things from unscrewing.. sort of like the old S&W revolvers..

Will52100 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 14, 2004, 09:00:29 PM »

Thanks, think I'm going to braze though, at least for the prototype.(like as not there won't be but one made. Seams like it would be eisier to machine, and would be very solid and sealed, I realy like the sealed part. Also I think I can get a very small brass seam at the joint.

What I am planning is to turn the barrel so that it is just a little smaller at the barrel/lug junction than the O.D. of the barrel to get maximum strength and barrel thickness at this week point. In the end though an 18 inch barrel is only 9 inches longer than the stock barrel. The hard part for me will be carving the stock, never was very good with wood work.

Any way it's on my to do list starting at the end of April, have a big show to get ready for till then.

Thanks again,

Will

Flint · « **Reply #5 on:** January 15, 2004, 06:48:55 AM »

Look at VTIgunparts. They have parts for both the Uberti 44 cal Remington Revolving Carbine and the Uberti made 1873 Colt SAA based revolving Carbine. Either one of these could provide you with a finished shoulder stock and buttplate to work around, as well as a mainspring, which is extremelely difficult to make for a revolver with a straightened out gripframe. I know, I built a Remington Revolving Rifle 40 years ago, before Uberti made them, from a Navy Arms revolver. I now have a mainspring in it from the Uberti revolving carbine, and after all these years, it finally pops caps properly. You can also purchase from VTI a Dragoon style loading lever and latch.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 15, 2004, 07:58:13 AM »

I still don't feel there's enough strength in the sslip fit joint and perhaps not even enough with a screwed in version. How about simply removing the barrel from the lug and machine the top to fit the new barrel.. A bit of relieving, a tiq torch, and it'd be almost inpossible to find.. and a bunch stronger. A slathering of scale prevention paste in the bore to keep away the unglies and I believe you'd be way ahead.. Stronger too.. If your careful and weld in strips, it wouldn't get any hotter than it would with brazing.

Flint · « **Reply #7 on:** January 15, 2004, 01:13:02 PM »

If a threaded barrel holds a Colt SAA, Remington 58/75/90, a Ruger Blackhawk, S & W revolvers etc together up through Magnums, why wouldn't a threaded barrel hold in a Walker lug? Bore it, thread it and the barrel extension and you are done. Brownells has assorted taps and dies for barrel threads for several guns.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 15, 2004, 08:22:14 PM »

First let me say it probably would hold but, modern revolvers have a frame that is oversized at the point where the barrel scerws in as they are designed for that purpose. The Colt in question does not and the barrel is integral with the lug.. Plus to allow the barrel tennon to be large enough the lug will have to be drilled with a large hole. This will weaken the lug and may create strength problems. The press fit and brazing is not a bad way to go, but machining the top of the lug and tiq welding would be stronger..also might be a bit easier to get and keep the barrel in line with the chambers.

Will52100 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 16, 2004, 05:30:12 AM »

The way I have it planned, is to braze, then prof test with every bit of 777 I can cram in the chambers with no wad. I never shoot anything but black powder, and always use a wad so the hotter 777 and small amount more of it would should tell me if it will fail from the start.

I don't see why a brazed in linner wouldn't work, they work fine for 50-70 and 45-70 trapdoors. I agree that a tig weld would be better, but I have no access to a tig and the set-up would be harder with my tooling. (I'm a knife maker, not a gunsmith

I will have to experiment with the main springs, I was thinking of useing the walker's spring, just chamfer the edges and re-temper( it's a large V spring. Thanks for the ideas on the stock also, may save he a searius head acke.

Thanks guys, now all that remains is to find time to get started! At this rate I'll be too old to shoot it if I ever finish it!

gunnut69 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 16, 2004, 07:27:43 AM »

Let us know how it works out.. I really believe the braze would work but totally understand where you're coming from. Proof it well and keep us apprised of the progress.
jerry