Author Topic: Ruger Mark II problem (Read 4511 times)

flatlander · « **on:** November 17, 2011, 12:24:41 PM »

I'm having a weird issue with my Mark II. The pistol will fire and cycle, but when the bolt closes again, it stops about 1/4" short. It doesn't happen all of the time, but maybe around 75%. If I bump the bolt, it closes and will fire. It happens both when I'm shooting, and when I take out the mag and pull the bolt back by hand and release it manually. It feels like something is dragging, but I can't figure out what it is. I've taken the gun down, cleaned it up and reassembled it, and the problem is exactly the same.
Any ideas on what I might be dealing with here?

flatlander · « **Reply #1 on:** November 17, 2011, 01:11:14 PM »

I suspect that it is a weak recoil spring that is causing my problem. I bought the pistol in 1993, and haven't had it out for a while. Does that sound like a reasonable cause? I'm not much of a gunsmith, so I'm making a best guess.

too phister · « **Reply #2 on:** November 17, 2011, 02:03:40 PM »

had a simaler problom with a 22/45, the recoil spring and rod didnt slide clean my rod was slightly bent and had some burs on it. Help or not, its my 2 cents.

flatlander · « **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2011, 11:52:07 PM »

Thanks. I tore the whole thing down last night and gave it a good cleaning, and can't find anywhere on the rod where it looks like it will hang up. The rest of the slide looks smooth and clean, too. I'll pull it out and go over it again, though.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #4 on:** November 18, 2011, 01:08:40 AM »

Is your chamber clean ? You did not mention if the problem exist when not cycling ammo. If it only does this when cycling ammo you might polish the chamber and make sure the extractor groove is clear so it can pop over the rim with out interference

Brett · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2011, 02:21:45 AM »

Could be an ammo issue as well. Some bulk .22 ammo is heavily waxed/greased and this could cause hang ups if your return spring is getting a little tired. Springs are inexpensive and easy to replace so I would start there. Even if it is not the main problem it never hurts to replace old springs.

flatlander · « **Reply #6 on:** November 18, 2011, 11:19:34 AM »

The bolt acts up when shooting and when empty. I had the mag out and could pull the bolt back and get it to stick without any ammo or mag involved. I'm guessing that after 18 years, the spring got a little tired. Ordered one today, and will see if it fixes it. As pointed out, it's a cheap fix, and certainly won't hurt anything. At worst case, it is a good first step.

Ken ONeill · « **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2011, 10:24:38 AM »

Without seeing the gun my guess would be something in connection with the spring or rod, also, Mark. Check also to ensure that the extractor isn't hanging on something. I've never seen what you describe on a Ruger .22 semi-auto unless it was a misfeed from a faulty magazine, which of course is not the problem in this case.

flatlander · « **Reply #8 on:** November 21, 2011, 12:57:45 AM »

I'll post when the new spring arrives and I get it put in. Hopefully that is the issue. If not, then we'll have to dig a little deeper.

flatlander · « **Reply #9 on:** November 25, 2011, 12:35:12 PM »

The spring came in and it is a bit stiffer than the old one. However, it didn't do anything to help out with the bolt hanging up.

So the question is what next? I don't know what is hanging up, but something obviously is. I don't see any parts with blueing worn from contact, or anything that is giving me an immediate red flag.

I tore it apart (again) and think I may be onto something. The block under the back of the bolt that rotates down to remove the bolt, and up again on reassembly appears to be moving not as freely as I think it should. I shot a bunch of oil into the area, and manipulated everything and it seems to be moving more freely. I think I'll tear it down again tomorrow and hit it with some gunscrubber, and re-oil it and see if I can get it to move more freely. Not sure if that is the cause, but it is all I've found so far that seems to be even a possible issue.

As always any ideas or theories are more than welcome.

myronman3 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 25, 2011, 01:25:00 PM »

this is the easiest question i have seen in a long time. call ruger, and and send it back to them. they will fix it for ya. wont cost you a dime.

flatlander · « **Reply #11 on:** November 25, 2011, 01:30:08 PM »

That will definitely be on the list of options, but I would much rather keep from shipping it there and back if I can. If another super deep clean and relube doesn't fix it, I'll probably throw in the towel unless someone comes up with something else to try.

Ken ONeill · « **Reply #12 on:** November 25, 2011, 01:36:41 PM »

That's true and the best possible advice. However, flatlander is a "man's man", and wants to know what's wrong & fix it himself.
Look at the ejector and see if it's bent or buggered up in any way. I'm assuming you've already checked out the extractor also. Did you take (tap) the receiver/barrel assembly off to clean the gun? If so, check everything closely for burrs from wear, gunk around the hammer etc. before putting it back together.
THEN ... call Ruger & return it.

flatlander · « **Reply #13 on:** November 26, 2011, 04:43:28 AM »

Unfortunately, I tore it down, shot gunscrubber, and then some oil. Everything looks straight, and clean. Still sticking most of the time. I guess I need to suck it up and send it in to let the pros take care of it. I've done everything that I can do without risk of screwing something up.

Brett · « **Reply #14 on:** November 26, 2011, 10:03:13 AM »

You have probably checked this possibility already; Is the receiver drilled and tapped.... filler or rail screw set too deep? $:-\$

You have a curious case there. I've seen Ruger MKs that came out from under truck seats or out of a tackle box that looked like they had been threw hell and back but still functioned flawlessly.

flatlander · « **Reply #15 on:** November 26, 2011, 12:32:29 PM »

Nope, no different drill and taps. I'm using the adjustable sights that came from the factory back in the '94 era. The only add on is finger groove grips, and they've been on since new. The gun was shooting great before, but has been unused for a while, and this came up after the time in the safe.

flatlander · « **Reply #16 on:** November 29, 2011, 06:51:02 AM »

Boxed up and ready to go back to SR&C. I'll let you know what they tell me.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #17 on:** December 03, 2011, 07:08:58 AM »

That's a tough one to diagnose thru the puter screen. I'm sure a couple of us could have gotten it if we had it in hand. But with out that it's really tough.

One thing for certain they will find and fix it for certain!

Please do come back and comment!!!

Merry Christmas all,

CW

flatlander · « **Reply #18 on:** December 05, 2011, 02:22:08 AM »

Will do. The big shocker was shipping. Hit UPS first, and about dropped when they quoted pricing. It started somewhere around $55 and went up from there. Fortunately, FedEx was a BUNCH cheaper, so they got the job. It should be to them and I'm sure they will figure it out. I will let you all know when I get it back.

Ken ONeill · « **Reply #19 on:** December 05, 2011, 07:30:24 AM »

If you have a relationship with a local FFl, they can legally return a handgun to a manufacturer through the USPS, for about $20.00 or less. FYI for the future.

flatlander · « **Reply #20 on:** December 21, 2011, 12:30:40 PM »

Well, I was surprised with a package from Ruger in the mail today. According to the write up, the hammer pivot pin had drifted and was causing the problem.
They also made note that the gun was inspected and repaired at no charge, on a one time only basis as a courtesy. Ruger customer service is pretty good IMO. I would have paid to get it back and running again. Hopefully I'll get another 17 years out of it before I need to have it tuned it up again.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #21 on:** December 21, 2011, 12:34:48 PM »

Good newsa happy ending with a nice Christmas present for you... NO CHARGE!!!

Good deal,

CW

RIF · « **Reply #22 on:** December 27, 2011, 03:06:00 PM »

Thanks for the update

flatlander · « **Reply #23 on:** January 29, 2012, 02:22:25 AM »

The bad news was that after 50 rounds at the range, it started hanging up again. Not so happy with Ruger anymore. Apparently it was just a temporary fix. $:-\$

Camba · « **Reply #24 on:** January 29, 2012, 06:01:11 AM »

Flatlander,

Check the chamber for any burrs caused by firing pin. Many times, the firing pin retainer gets dropped and lost when cleaning the gun. If that comes apart, the gun SHOULD NOT be dry fired. I had that happen to me in two of my Ruger mark II pistols. One just a few days ago.

Camba

Brett · « **Reply #25 on:** January 29, 2012, 06:42:44 AM »

What are you feeding it? Stay away from the heavily waxed/greasy bulk ammo.

flatlander · « **Reply #26 on:** January 30, 2012, 01:31:57 AM »

I was shooting super X and rem bulk. It's never had problems with that ammo in the past, so I'm not sure why it would start now. Maybe the trip to the factory did change things.

spitpatch · « **Reply #27 on:** January 30, 2012, 04:04:30 PM »

I shoot all the bulk ammo through mine....never had a problem. I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the "hammer pivot pin" explanation. My first thought was the extractor groove being filled with debris.

Going to tear mine down tonight to check the pivot pin placement. It should be completely clear of the bolt.

spitpatch · « **Reply #28 on:** January 30, 2012, 04:49:20 PM »

Did a quick field strip of my mark 2 and the only way I can see that the hammer pivot pin could possibly drift is if the grips were broken, as they hold the pin in place. Solid grip on the right side, and milled slot on the left, just to the rear of the bolt latch.

Also the pin would have to almost fall out to create a problem as the hammer rides under the bolt half way and then with ample space in the rear slot for the hammer. only two things could cause hammer pivot pin problem, broken pin or broken grip.

As I gently lower my bolt in my reciever I notice that mine stops short as my extractor hits the extractor groove, and as I push it all the way in, the extractor moves out slightly. It stops about where you say yours does, about 1/8" from closing.

Carefully check your extractor and/or groove for broken spring or debris in groove. That would be my 1st suspect.

Couger · « **Reply #29 on:** February 27, 2012, 10:40:17 PM »

Those Mk2's are usually almost like a small tank in their dependability and ruggedness, and even the Mk1's. But your problem is very perplexing (an understatement for you! sorry)

Do you have another Mk2 ruger you could compare it to? Maybe take apart both and swap pieces with? Maybe you could somehow isolate the major assembly with the actual probb trying different swaps and combinations?

What about something as simple as swapping bolts? Could anything have happened to make the receiver out of 'round?'