Problem with first home fletched arrows

[threepdr]

I've just gotten into primative archery.  I've been shooting an 50# English Long Bow with BassPro carbon fiber arrows it shoot great and consistantly.  I recently made some arrows out of 11/32 douglas fir.  I'm using 5 inch vanes (hope to use real feathers on next batch) with a 100grn field tip.  I used a Bhoning fletching jig with straight clamp.  They went together great but they all shoot well to the left compared to the store bought carbons.  I have to hold off about 18 inches at 30 yards to hit center of mass.
 
Did I fletch them wrong, or is this just the nature of the beast for wood arrows.
 
Thanks
 
mark

[Bugflipper]

By straight clamp, do you mean no twist on arrows?
One thing may be going from the strongest arrow to one of the most flexible. It shouldn't be that far off, but potentially the flexing spine could jump a bit and shift to where it is the least stressed while still on the string. If yes to the question above I would put a right fletch on them. May help to get them back on track after they get off the string. If that doesn't get you back into a comfortable area, would look into limb canting.
Good day.

[Empty Quiver]

I'm going to suggest cutting off the vanes and get 5" feather fletch. This may solve the problem though not likely. 11/32 means little to nothing when it comes to spine of the arrow. The arrows need to be reasonably close in both weight and of appropriate stiffness for the draw length and arrow length.


Without getting too long winded, draw weight, arrow weight, arrow length and spine, are all inter-related. Changing any of the variables will change the way the arrow flies out of the bow. Longbows are the least forgiving of spine issues, center cut recurves are better and the fallaway rests and releases are most forgiving. 


Read a traditional bow tuning guide for a better idea of what I'm talking about

[threepdr]

Thanks guys, lot to think about here and much to learn.  These shafts were spined at 60lbs, but I suspect there has to be lots of flex compared to the carbon arrows.
 
The Bohning fletching jig that I have is straight, althoug there is about a 1 degree twist to the left (according to product information.)  They sell a right fletch clamp for that jig.  It might be a good investment to see if they stay truer instead of drifting left (at least they were all going to the same place ) 
 
Thanks again
 
Mark

[Empty Quiver]

Feathers are sold as either left wing or right wing. The clamps need to match that. From what I have read it really doesn't matter which you choose to use just so long as your clamps match.

[b44mag]

sent you a pm check it out lots of info and a great bunch

[aromakr]

A lot of things you didn't say before your problem can be cured. first need to know what your draw length is and what length of draw the bows 50# was measured at. As someone already said get rid of the vanes, they will not shoot well from that type of bow. I can almost assure your if your draw is in the neighborhood of 28" your 60# shafts are way too stiff. You will need at least 40# or under for that bow. The arrow must bend around the handle to shoot in line with your point of aim. Too stiff an arrow will wag its tail at you and hit the target too the left for a right handed shooter.
I have well over fifty years experience of making arrows and 20+ years making them commercially.
Bob

[OldSchoolRanger]

You didn't mention if your  finger shooter, but since you stated that your into primitive archery and shoot an English long bow, It's probably safe to assume that your a finger shooter.  I would definitely recommend that you use 5" feathers, as feathers are a lot more forgiving than vanes. 

I would also recommend that you try using (either a right or left) helical fletch, instead of the straight fletch. 

[Thebear_78]

Your arrows are definitely too stiff and not bending around the riser.   Carbons are more forgiving than wood because they are skinnier and don't have to move as much around the riser.   I would try using much heavier field points that will help soften up the spine a little bit.  Also vanes almost never shoot well off a shelf.  Generally they kick instead of clearing the riser as cleanly as feathers do.    I would start out with 40-45 spined wood shafts next time and definitely use feathers.

[Plenty Coups]

1st we need to know actual draw length and not a guess. 2nd what does your bow actually pull at your draw length. 3rd more weight up front will help with tuning and flight issues for any bow. 100grains is pretty light for a wood arrow causing F.O.C. to fall below optimum. 4th a composite bow will have better performance most of the time requiring stiffer arrows as compared to an all wood bow.