New transfer bars

[rdlange]

I'm not clear about these.  Are they drop in fit we can do ourselves?  Are they available from Brownells or Midway?  Is it really worth my time and effort to get one and install it if I'm having no ftf problems?  From reading the post here it seems to improve the trigger.  Yes?  Stuff like that.  Might as well... doing just about everything else to this 'challenging' parts Handi I'm figuring out.

Be Well...

[Kiwi Hunter]

Not sure I would fix it if it wasn't broke ! I have only just done my first replacement transfer bar and That was only because half of it fell out. Now that I have I'm stoked ,cause now I have the confidence to tune up the trigger and maintain these fine little rifles . I just followed the FAQ'S and yes i am a sloooowwwww learner but its great and if you prepare the stuff you require before you open it up, its much easier that you think!Once you see how the bits work inside ,it helps you start to understand other posts about these rifles. My 2 cents worth anyway!
 Cheers Kev
 O yea I got my bits from Numrich they have transfer bars at the mo , Brownwells were out of stock .

[rdlange]

Thank you for your quick response.  I've got a set of older action parts as spares I could use if I had a real problem. 

What I'm interested in is the NEW IMPROVED (after Remington buyout) recently developed transfer bar that's SUPPOSED to fix the old Handi transfer bar issues and the trigger pull peculiarities.

I've got a challenging rifle that I seem to be using as a way to learn gunsmithing and as long as I gotta do/learn just about every other Handi fix, I might as well tune up the action.  If installing the NEW transfer bar will be a significant improvement and FIX the old known issues I'll try it.

Be Well... I'm learning patience and persistence.

[Kiwi Hunter]

I'm sorry but not sure if my post was much use to you ,as I don"t know the difference between the 2 transfer bars . Hopefully someone else with greater knowledge will be able to post and enlighten me. I will follow this tread with interest.
 cheers

[rdlange]

Thanks Kiwi.  I think I recall you posting about doing the replacement.  Just didn't remember if you'd gotten the supposedly new, improved transfer bar.  It can be a real plan killer when a gun breaks. 

Be Well. 

[gcrank1]

The T-bar does not improve the trigger, that function is of the sear tip in the hammer notch. When you cock the gun the T-bar rises into position. Once the sear trips, the hammer begins to fall and the trigger extension moves slightly forward (with continued pull upon the trigger) and contacts the lifter portion of the T-bar, holdiing it forward and the striker portion upward to complete the hammer fall energy transfer to the firing pin.
The 'new' T-bar is slightly taller in the striker so it does not slip beneath the F-pin just before or as the hammer blow hits it, resulting in a FTF.

[Kiwi Hunter]

Are these new T-bars the same ones ,you can buy from Numricks as after market spares to repair your failed T-bars , or do you order them from H&R or from some other source . Sorry if  this question has been answered before, but  I'm just unclear as how I can  learn  the difference between the 2 models of transferbars.
 Cheers Kiwi

[quickdtoo]

The Numrich replacement t-bar is different than old factory t-bars, but no one knows for sure if it's a factory t-bar or not, H&R won't sell theirs, has to be factory fitted, so the only new ones anyone has are already in their rifles, kinda hard to compare when they're installed.

Tim

[gcrank1]

As mentioned, the T-bars assembly has two parts, the lifter (lower piece) and the striker (upper). As far as I can tell the lifter is the same on the two examples I have.
The striker body proper, separate from the one, right side pin lug, is the thing to measure. It is a little futzy to get a dial caliper on, but can be done (unfortunately you have to remove the T-bar from the rifle.
The striker of my 'problematic' T-bar (and perhaps the FTF rifles tend to share this) is .372" tall.
The 'new' striker is .406" tall. It also, visually, has a very obvious angle from the slight 'rolled' top tip, back (about 45 deg.) whereas the original was mostly square topped with just a slight chamfer back at the rear edge.
The thickness of each is: old, .153"; new .1505" (this is essentially the same for practical purposes and manufacturing tolerances; it affects the final firing pin protrusion as it interrelates to the hammer stop.
As I understand it, all new production (no idea where the actual transition is) is using the 'new' style, which may be a return to an earlier T-bar, but I dont have enough models/years to know.

[Kiwi Hunter]

 Thanks guys! for taking the time to explain the difference to me ,and what to look for . 
 Cheers Kiwi