1917 trigger job

[mtbugle]

Perhaps someone has good directions on how to work these triggers into a nice hunting trigger. In The meantime I would like to mention my findings so far and thoughts.

I Love the 17s and my dads old rifle has a trigger on it that seems pretty nice. So I had to look it over for ideas for helping some of my other 17s. What I found was the fist stage bump had been ground off. which by itself woud have made a long pull with creeps and jumps. But this gun does not, the bolt notch seemed to have been reangled for a ways towards edge from initial engagementwhich seems to give it a easy go once static friction overcome. I don't think this to be a good idea. But it works well in this particular set up. I was wondering if a better manner of working one of these triggers would be to add bump about 1/2 to 2/3 ways to second stage tip. This should give a trigger pull about 1/2 way between stages for poundage and not too much added travel. Perhaps even make slightly higher than first stage as there is lots of extra engagement on these. 

Thanks Don.

[gunnut69]

The simplest and likely the best fix is to replace the mechanical trigger with a propped sear trigger as made by Timney, Bold, etc. Some brands are quite reasonably priced.. The trigger work needed to make a mjor improvement is fairly complex.. Sear engagement has to be limited to remove the creep. This can be done several ways including grinding away the excess or (better idea) installing an adjustment screw to gradually remove the slack and sear engagement until it is safe but clean. This is accompanied with cleaning the surfaces that rub and polishing the engagement surfaces to make is smooth. There are even methods to make the trigger tension adjustable. Howe's book on gunsmithing hace a lot of good info on sporterising these old rifles.. Removing the bolt stop 'button' and streamlining the rear receiver ring, altering the contour of the 'boxcar' tang, and even shortening the striker fall (and thus the lock time), while keeping the gun reliable and safe..

[parkergunshop]

I have replaced the trigger on 8 or 10, 1917 or 1917 Enfields using the Dayton Trasister Trigger, which comes with a cock on opening cocking piece with a shorther speed lock firing pin fall, a stronger firing pin spring is also provided.

You can get these from Brownells.

It is easy to achieve a 3 pound trigger pull with no take up slack using these fully adjustable triggers.

[parkergunshop]

On the previous post should have said P14 and P17, except for the bolt face, the chamber in the barrel, barrel bore and the magazine box the parts interchange.

The easy way to convert the P17 from the 30-06 case head to magnum H&H case is to simply use a P14 bolt.
To convert the P14 303 to the magnum H&H case head simply use the P17 magazine box  for the extra length.
To convert the P14 to use a 30-06 length case head  family, use a P17 magazine box and a P17 bolt.

The ears are easily removed as stated using a hacksaw, grinder and files but decide on which scope base you want to recontour the rear bridge for.  You can use one piece or two piece bases.

[gunnut69]

Remember guys its P14 and 1917 enfield.. The P14 is british rifle nomenclature the 1917 is the US designation for the 30-06 caliber variation of the P14..

[mtbugle]

right you are as usual gunnut. I believe M-17 is somewhat considered appropiate also? I did modify the title.
Thanks Don

[gunnut69]

It's fine I don't want to be a stickler but if too many terms get mixed my old and rotting brain gets even more addled..  As to modifying the trigger, polishing and tightening up the fit helps immensely. As with all the mausers they don't have a tight enough fit between the striker sear and the trigger sear to get a great trigger, without replacing the entire units. Still with a bit of work they can and have functioned fine in the field for many years and ar quite reliable in operation..

[parkergunshop]

Ok,

If you want to go the cheapest way and retain the military trigger, drill and tap the back end of the sear for a 6/48 screw that bears against the trigger to take out the double stage slack.

For a little extra cost you can convert to cock on opening by buying a new cocking piece from Numrich.  I personally like cock  on opening vs closing.

The same approach works for a 1903 Springfield as for a P14 or 1917 Enfield.

With a little tuning you can get a 3lb trigger pull with almost no takeup that breaks like glass.

[mtbugle]

I think the drill and tap for an adj screw is a good idea. Maybe next time. I did finaly weld a new bump about where I figured would be about right pull. Is pretty good now, but a lot of fileing and refitting. Think rounding end of adj screw a little would make pretty smooth pull.
Took out Sat and test fired. Ole shortned military barrel seems to be shooting just under an inch. Working on a little bedding work now and then we will see how she does
Thanks Don.

[parkergunshop]

Mtbuggle,

I tried installing a 6/48 screw in the rear of the sear piece today to take up the double pull slack from a 1914 Remington Enfield (P14) action.  There is one difference in installing the 6/48 screw for a 1903 Springfield.   The sear piece for the P14 is so hard that a center drill will not cut a hole in the sear piece.  The back of the sear piece on the Enfield will have to be annealed by heating it red hot and letting it slowly cool before drilling and tapping.

You also may need to shorten or install a softer spring to reduce the pressure on the sear piece to lessen the trigger pull.   I installed a lighter spring in the 1903 Springfield I modified, the trigger pull is just under 3 pounds and very smooth.