welding cocking device. lead heat sink?

[mtbugle]

I am working on a remington 580 that looks like the cocking device has been ground down. I have not found one to buy so am thinking I may have to weld it back up. My question is how to build up the notch that is held back by the trigger and not lose the hardening in the rounded nose that slides against the bolt body to cock. I was thinking that I could disasemble and use a bolt through the striker rod hole to hold and add heat sink, then bury the device upto where welding into a pound of melted lead to finish the heat sink. This should keep the resto of the device cool enough to prevent loss of temper, then just melt the lead off again in lead pot when done. Also would I need to harden the face that is held against trigger and how would I do that?
Thanks Don.

[Rangr44]

IMHO, the sear and/or cocking piecs of ANY firearm is the last place any inexperienced person should be fiddling with - someone could be seriously injured or killed, should the "job" fail somewhere down the line.

I would advise that the cocking piece be replaced, only - whatever it takes.

Have you tried any of the specialty dealers that Remington recommends on their website, for obsolete parts ?

Here's one, Ahlman's:

http://www.ahlmans.com/gunparts.html

.

[mtbugle]

Looked everywhere I can think of, so far no joy.
Thanks for the link.
Perhaps I should ask also for other small needs of heat sink in future. Do you think the lead bed is a good idea to keep heat away from rest of a piece. The 800 degrees or so to melt lead back off does not affect the temper of rest of piece?
Still looking if any one knows a source for cocking piece.
Thanks Don.

[bilmac]

Wouldn't the heat produced by welding be enough to vaporize lead. We all worried about lead vapors causing poisening when we cast, but found out it was largely a myth, but I think welding in close proximity to lead might be taking a real risk.

[trotterlg]

I am thinking you mean this part?



If I had to fix mine, I would grind it down nice and flat and then silver on a bar full length of the square part.  The little round piece does not need to be very hard, if just cams up to cock the hammer.  If you clamp the rest of the part in a vice it should be just fine and not get too hot.  Use a piece of square drill rod or a piece of Handi rifle ejector or good piece of known steel and life will be good.  Larry

[mtbugle]

I was also thinking about that possibility, sounds like the best plan.
Thanks Don.

[mtbugle]

Would have liked to answer back in more detail earlier, but am recovering from surgery. The questions I still have would be if a straight sheer strength of solder is sufficient to hold? Or would a notch to prevent sheer direction movement be prudent?
I also believe I read here somewhere that only acid core silver(Leadfree) solder will hold to steel well? Is that accurate?
Thanks all for the technical advice.
Thanks Don.

[trotterlg]

Silver solder has a very high shear strength, on the older H&R rifles and shotguns the underlug was silvered on the barrel and I have never seen one come loose.  I have also silvered on extractor tips, if you grind the joint so it operated mostly in shear you will have no problems at all.  This is not the lead free solder from the hardware store, and the flux used is not like is used for doing copper pipe etc.  There are quite a few different alloys of silver solder, most take about 1,200 degrees to work right, and lots of the will work even on Stainless.  This is the guy I get mine from, I am sure there are many other places to find it.  Larry

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ex-Easy-56-Silver-Solder-20-Ga-5-Ft-Kit-w-flux-/330461352592?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf1081290

[mtbugle]

Thanks Larry. You are always most helpfull. The link took me to a 56% solder. I wonder if that is what you are using on guns, or more like the 6% that sounded much more like for gun metal? Sorry if I am sounding very uneducated on different silver solders, but I am.
Thanks Don.

[trotterlg]

The link went to the seller I bought from, he has a silver for the home gunsmith with flux to match, look through the store or send him an email, you will get the right stuff.  Larry