First Trigger job

[revbc]

Let me tell you this trigger job was not hard; however, setting here with a broke foot propped up is another story!   This maybe a first, I don't know.

Anyhow, I have been getting some FTF's with the maxi.  Had good firing pin protrusion, so I ordered some Wolf extra power hammer springs. Kinda went by Perklos directions, however I only removed the large and small trigger pins and the large hammer pin,  Smoothed the pins and holes with 600, polished the hammer and trigger with Mother's mag wheel polish, cleaned and lubed up with Super lube.  I did replace the hammer spring.  She feels real good, but it had a decent trigger to start with.  I didn't think it  necessary to pull the barrel catch and other stuff out.  Lubed it good internally, not the barrel catch externally.

Hope it helps the FTF's.

Bobby

[gendoc]

do you take checks,credit cards or cash ??  
jus kid'n..... feels good to know you can handle it, don't it !!!!

[lonewolf5348]

I did one myself a few weeks back started with around 80 + oz : I just drop the lower end polished all parts pins and stoned the sear on 400 wet and dry.I used the slave pin to drop the lower trigger out and used to re-install easy job all of about 45 min:
I took a reading at about 58 oz not bad.
I am heading out tomorrow and just for the fun tried it tonight to my surprise it went up to 64 oz. with the scale,I removed the hammer spur right back down I can't think the extra weight of the spur will add to the trigger pull?
I will shoot it with out the Hammer spur and maybe next week I take it apart and take a tad more off the sear.

[gcrank1]

Be aware that after 'smoothing' the contact of the sear/hammer notch that changing of the angle can increase the pull weight.
Why dont you pop it apart and completely de-lube the sear tip and notch, and apply some mechanics anti-sieze compound (copper or silver, no matter). I will be very interested in your results.

[revbc]

I would possibly try that, but my experience with anti-seize (I am an automotive instructor) is that it tends to harden with time and exposure.  The same happens with most automotive extreme pressure greases that have the coveted "moly" in them.  The Super Lube is very temperature stable (-45 to +450), it seems to have high film strength and is dielectric (safe for electrical connections).

I am interested in knowing how fine the moly is that is used to coat bullets.  You can purchase it from Midway.  My thoughts are to make a moly--Super Lube mix for my triggers.  Just an experiment.  Any one have a little extra that could be purchased?  Sure don't need a half-pound (I think that's how Midway sells it).

Thanks for the comments
Bobby

[gcrank1]

I have seveal years on some of my 'gunsmith's secret tigger job' (anti seize) guns and they work fine. Some dont get that much use anymore, either, so its not that I am keeping the film 'worked up'. Hey, the price is right to give it a go.
Another lube is the old STP ( a long chain polymer) that works very well in sliding surface applications.
FWIW, I have tried a bunch of lubes over the past 30yrs. for triggers, and some were pretty pricey and didnt work as well as the two above. The only consideration for some would be in extremely cold weather.

[revbc]

+1 on the film strength of the good ole STP.  I can see it would work fine in moderate temps.  From my understanding (which could be incorrect) there was a moly based trigger lube (maybe almost pure moly?) that is not available anymore that was one of the best.

Maybe hearsay, don't know.  I would like to try to make my own with the Super Lube.

[gcrank1]

If I remember right, moly doesnt really mix with oil or grease (petro based lubes), they just act as a carrier for the moly. Some moly greases are more grease than anything. The old 'Gunslick' (Outer's?) was a graphite (micro ball bearings) in a light grease base and worked pretty well.
One of the keys for this whole process, IMHO, is to have the smoothed parts, very clean and unlubed, burnished into each other, then clean again and apply the lube of choice.
By burnished, I mean worked over their mating surfaces with just a tad of pressure applied, in this case, againt the back out the hammer. Put a piece of rubber, or even a popsickle stick, in front to break the hammer fall, cock to full, apply a little pressure and squeeze the trigger. It is important to have the works go through their travel. No problem with a hundred strokes this way.

[quickdtoo]

Bobby, I originally used Tetra grease on triggers(Rifle Basix triggers came with it), but found that after time it cakes and dries, have been using Super Lube for a while now, no problems with it so far in the last 4yrs or so, but time will tell. 

Tim