Author Topic: 111 bolt work  (Read 764 times)

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Offline cwop

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111 bolt work
« on: February 20, 2010, 02:54:35 AM »
well i put in a tactical bolt and a lift kit on my 111 bolt.  talking to my neighbor a strong rem guy i was complaining about the rifle throwing the case out everywhere after the rifle was fired. 

he suggested taking the spring out at the front end of the bolt and this will hold the case within the rifle when fired.  i like this so am going to try it out.

question is are there any other parts going to fly out after taking the pin out?  i suppose i could take it apart within a plastic bag.

he also suggested removing some of the spring on the cocking lever to take out some of the stiffness.

so all this sounds sort of interesting.

any comments?

bob

Offline trotterlg

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2010, 07:53:13 AM »
Well, the spring on the cocking piece is the hammer spring, so if you want lighter fireing pin strikes then cut some off it, it will make cocking it easier however.  There is only a spring and plunger for the ejector, if you take it out the brass will probalby just fall into the action when you open the bolt.  The trick to making it easier to cock is making the cocking ramp just high enough to cock the hammer and not lift it higher than necessary, this, and the shape of the ramp is the proper way to make the bolt lift as light as practical.  Larry
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Offline cwop

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2010, 11:41:48 AM »
well with your comment i wonder if one of those single shot thingees would do part of the trick.  still take the spring our or cut it off some to reduce flinging high priced brass on concrete.

i wonder how much spring will have to be cut off to reduce some of the tension when cocking although my neighbor didnt think mine was too bad the way it is.

it would be nice to use just your index finger to cock it plus lack of movement on the bag.

what do you think

bob

Offline LaOtto222

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2010, 12:13:30 PM »
I have removed the ejector on two Stevens 200's and my Remington 700; all converted to single shots with a "tray". The cartridge will stay in the bolt head when you draw the bolt back. You will have to pick it out with a finger tip, by running the bolt all the way back and reaching in with your index finger at the neck mouth and gently pulling it out. The two Stevens work great, the Remington is a little more tricky. You have to get a good grip on the case and pull at it at the correct angle. The Stevens are not that picky. Use a 1/16 th inch drift pin to punch out the retaining pin on the Savage. As has been said, there is a plunger and spring. When you punch out the retaining pin, the punch will take the retaining pins place, keeping the plunger in place. When you withdraw the drift pin, put your hand over the bolt face to catch the plunger and spring.

I have never messed with the firing spring, so I can not give any advice here. I would think you could remove some of the spring and making opening the bolt easier however. Before I began, I would get a spare spring, Justin Case and would only remove 1 coil at a time, put it back together and try it with the primers you are going to be using. Some have thicker cups than others. Federal match primers are popular among the bench rest crowd and they have thin (soft) cups. Lightening the firing pin spring is a benchrest shooters trick so the gun does not move at all in the bags when lifting the bolt handle. Personally I have found that the bolt lift is not all that bad, and it gets better after you shoot it a bunch, to smooth it up some.

Good Luck and Good Shooting
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Offline cwop

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2010, 12:30:43 PM »
well i get it now.  i may go ahead and trim some of that high tension spring. 

thanks for the help makes sense

bob

Offline cwop

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2010, 06:05:28 AM »
i have spent hours on getting the bolt working better.  i used valve grinding compound on the bolt and worked it quite awhile and then went to flitz.  i use a high grade lithium grease a tip from the neighbor.

i think i will tune that firing pin spring some and use your advice on the primer.  this 6br calls for cci 450s so will do as you suggest. 

hope this is successful

thanks

bob

Offline yorketransport

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2010, 08:38:41 AM »
The other option is to have "Time and True" job don on the action. I have a Target action that Sharpshooter Supply did for me and it's a pleasure to work the bolt on that gun. I think that Stockade does similar work.

Andrew
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Offline cwop

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2010, 10:34:58 AM »
well with shipping and insurance you can get a lot into these savage rifles let see 30 or more each way maybe more and the cost of the t@true. that s why i prefer to do a little experimenting.  im already a lot better than it was before.

thanks

bob

Offline yorketransport

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2010, 02:53:25 PM »
FWIW, I only spent $10 to ship the action to Sharpshooter, and return shipping was included in the price of the work. All you need to send is the action, not the whole gun. But if you have the time and skill to tinker, by all means tinker away ;)

Andrew
Shipping FedEx Ground keeps a small business running.

I'm not late, I'm early for tomorrow.

Keep honking, that should fix everything.

Offline cwop

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Re: 111 bolt work
« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2010, 05:14:59 PM »
that is the fun of it.  my neighbor has remingtons he has tinkered with that shoot as good as any custom actions i have ever saw.  matter of fact he is a champion shooter.

so thanks for the compliment

bob