Adding fiberglass to wood

[351 power]

can i make my stock comb higher with fiberglass? what will stick to wood?

[mbopp]

Try here:

http://www.blackpowderbags.com/index.html

Scroll down towards the bottom of the page.

I put one of their screw-on pads on my scope-sighted shotgun.

[gunnut69]

Brownells as well as Cabelas, Midway etc. offer stick in place pads that an be used to raise the comb. If they offend the sensibilities or you just want something more permanent you can epoxy on a slab of wood and shape to please. Also Brownells sells hardware to ad an adjustable comb to your stock. It's not too hard to do and looks kinda neat. They are really made for target stocks but work well on nearly all as the hardware is not real visible so the pad can be almost anything you might want.

[351 power]

yeah, i started last nite to prep the stock to add wood. got a couple ideas off youtube. what's a good epoxy or glue?

[Huffmanite]

polyurethane type glue,  available at Walmart, lowes, home depot and etc.  It expands while hardening, filling imperfections, gaps and darn strong.  Careful, a thin coat goes a long way.  Some brand names are: Gorilla Glue, Loctite's Sumo, and others.  I prefer it over traditional type wood glues, especially if I make a laminated rifle stock, sands better.

[gunnut69]

I prefer 2 part epoxies to the Gorilla glues. The foaming action can cause displacement and they don't seem as strong. I use Devcon 5-ton which is available at Walmart.

[351 power]

ok, i added my wood, shaped it, and got to the point with the stain in place. i want to use boiled linseed oil on the stock. anny pointers or drawbacks?

[gunnut69]

"Boiled linseed oil isn't boiled at all, it contains artificil driers which are really just lacquers and such things to harden the final finish. If boiled linseed is used the finish will become sticky when handled with hot/sweaty hands. Use a comercially prepared finish such as TruOil on you stock..

[Huffmanite]

What gunnut69 said is basically true about the BLO, boiled linseed Oil.  Besides, it is not a really good protective finish.  While Tru-oil may be OK to use, I've never used it.  I prefer other products.  One is a polyurethane product from Minwax, called Wipe On Poly.  You apply it with a cloth, adding as many coats as you want till you are happy.  Only problem with it is on a light wood, you will see the yellowing typical of any polyurethane product.  Its available in satin or glossy.  Another product to think about is any of the so called Danish Oil finish products.  Actually a BLO type product, but with other additives that make it more durable and water resistant.  You can brush it on, let soak into wood, and wipe off excess before it is too dry.  Another product, that you do brush on, is another Minwax product called Clear Guard.  Made for clear finishing outside furniture.  Yes, it does dry clear and to a hard durable finish.  Like most products you brush on, always a potential problem with runs, but easily dealt with by sanding with a very fine sandpaper when it has dried completely,leaving a satin finish.

[351 power]

can i put truoil on over the b linseed oil?

[gunnut69]

Yes as long as the excess is removed from the surface of the stock. I often use a fill coat of a product called 'OKENE' from Pratt&Lambert which is a 'french oil'. It never really dries but is so liquid it soaks into the pores of the wood and as it oxidizes it fills the pores. This adds a layer to the final finish. When you're done remember the final coat on any oil finished stock is wax. No oil finish is water proof but wax is. Apply a coat of any wax with carnuba to the final surface after buffing lightly with steel fur (0000). The result is a slightly satin finish which is water proof to the most degree possible and easily repaired if damage occurs. Before hunting season just give the wood a coat of wax and leave the edges where the metal and wood meet slightly filled. Also don't forget to wax the inside of the inletting to protect that area from moisture intrusion. Poly finishes are water proof by their nature but a scratch which penetrates must be fixed or moisture invading the wood thru the scratch can cause the finish to lift and seperate from the underlying wood. I do sometimes use rubbing poly on the inletting but am always a bit afraid of a little damage allowing moiture access.

[351 power]

wow, thanks gunnut 69. this gets my project finished. my p-14 has a higher comb and a much nicer looking stock