Author Topic: Anyone ever driven the Alaskan highway as a casual roadtrip? (Read 2639 times)

teddy12b · « **on:** January 05, 2010, 05:19:07 AM »

My wife and I were watching an outdoors show the other night and the guys were driving down the Alaskan highway on a roadtrip. I've heard of people doing this and I've read a little bit about it. I'd like to know if anyone here has done it or would have reccomendations about doing it. I was shocked when my wife said "Yeah, I'd go do that". I couldn't believe it since I've tried to talk her into going on hunting trips in the past just for the sake of going, but she's never been interested.

From what I've read, most of the expense is just getting there and renting the car. Sounds like camping and hotels are very reasonable/cheap. I wouldn't plan on hunting at all during the trip, but I may consider doing some fishing in the right situation. I thought it was a little odd for the roadtrip to be the Alaskan highway when most of it seemed to be in British Columbia, but I can live with that.

Anyone go a trip similar to what I'm talking about?

S.E.Ak · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2010, 06:33:08 AM »

Never pass a gas station and make sure you have at least one good spare tire.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #2 on:** January 05, 2010, 10:00:27 AM »

I've been over the ALCAN 13 times to date... (two times on a motorcycle) It's a long trip, but it is beautiful!

DM

teddy12b · « **Reply #3 on:** January 05, 2010, 10:23:56 AM »

A guy I work with said his son started in Vancouver BC where they rented a vehicle that came with an emergency kit (including shotgun), and all the supplies (tent, sleeping bag, food) they needed. Anyone familiar with something like that?

GatCat · « **Reply #4 on:** January 06, 2010, 08:52:21 PM »

Back around 12 or so years ago my son ( who was 12 or 13 ) and I spent a month driving from our home in Washington State, up central B.C., ( not the al-can highway ), up the Cassier Highway ( western-most of the N/S highways ), up into Yukon, Alaska, up to Prudoe Bay, and back down, going a slightly different way back. I had an old '68 Chev. Van, but heavy duty ( ex phone-co van ). We slept on a platform in back, with our supplies below it on the floor, and a canoe on roof-rack.
Once you get into Northern B.C., settlements have Laundramats, and most of those have pay-showers available. We only spent one night in a camp-ground, and I regret doing that. We would just drive off the road, and stay were we wanted ( discouraged now, but still being done ). We did some cooking, but also ate at "joints" along the way. DId some fishing, tried to do some black-bear hunting, but no luck. No problems of any kind. We did take extra belts for engine, radiator hoses, and a couple of spares, also some "flat-fixer" cans..didn't need any of it. We started in July, and saw a ton of bears along the Cassier Highway ( we only hunted in Alaska ). We took rifles with us, just declared them at Canadian Customs. NO HANDGUNS, of course, then, or now !!
I haven't heard about renting a car with the "survival equipment" ( including shotgun ), but I suppose if a car is rented up north, it likely has the essentials.
One neat way to consider, it to drive one way, then take the Alaska Marine Highway the other ( Ferry Boat ). You can rent rooms, or sleep on the deck.
One of the first things you should do, if you haven't already, is get a copy of the "Milepost", a guide to driving through B..C., Yukon, and Alaska. MUCH info in it, and if you go, take it with you, lots and lots of interesting stuff in it.
Enjoy,
Mark
feel free to pm if you have any questions I might be able to help you with.

Skunk · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2010, 04:47:19 AM »

If a person was well prepared, it seems like it would be an awesome adventure.

bilmac · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2010, 05:10:16 AM »

+++ on the milepost magazine, that is the most important thing you can take. It is a beautiful trip, unfortunately most people, like me, travel it with "getting somewhere" in mind. A person should really take the time to enjoy it. I wouldn't count on catching many fish, roads are few in that part of the world, so all human activity is very concentrated along them.

An awesome trip would be to drive one way and bring the Alaska ferry back. If you want to catch some fish get off the ferry at some of the stops along the way and rent a boat. It's a little expensive putting your vehicle on the ferry, it would maybe make sense to rent the vehicle and leave it rather than putting one on the ferry.

teddy12b · « **Reply #7 on:** January 07, 2010, 05:29:54 AM »

I like the sound of renting the vehicle going one way and taking the ferry back the other way. I just got to start putting some costs to all these different ideas.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #8 on:** January 07, 2010, 11:32:27 AM »

This isn't a trip like in the OLD days... These days the road is mostly paved, and durning the summer there's plenty of gas and everything else all along the way. I'm not even sure why anyone would "need" a shotgun, and i'd really be surprised if one was supplied with a rental, "these days".

DM

Dand · « **Reply #9 on:** January 07, 2010, 11:32:21 PM »

I've never driven it but my neighbors do and my wife has. Seriously check the prices. At least in Anchorage and much of road system Alaska, hotel costs jump way up in prime tourist time midMay to early Sept. These days of more expensive gas and low economy there might not be quite as much traffic on the highway and prices may have moderated. Don't know where you are starting from but while it is definitely affordable for a lot of folks, I wouldn't head out expecting it to be cheap. But our neighbors ARE real Cheap, they've driven Anchorage to Indiana (and back some times) about 3-4 times in the last 6-7 years. They usually do it in Sept / Oct down and April/May back up I think. Fewer Winnebagos to block the views. I think they camp in their van for quite a few nights, drop in on friends & relatives and pay to stay a night or 2. They buy their food at grocery stores mostly. GET the Milepost for sure.

teddy12b · « **Reply #10 on:** January 08, 2010, 04:30:48 AM »

I'd be startin off in Indiana just like your cheap neighbors. For the sake of travel time just to get to the start of the trip I was thinking of flying to Vancouver BC then renting a car. I'd love to drive my own vehicle, but it'd be over 36hrs drive just to get to the start point so we'd need to fly. Now some day when I'm retired, it'll be a different story.

kctibs · « **Reply #11 on:** January 09, 2010, 04:25:06 PM »

I have driven it many times but never really for casual drive always had somewhere to be. Once in B.C. to Alaska it is about 1000 times better than a drive through like Yellowstone less traffic and more animals better scenery. Do it and you will not regret it.

GatCat · « **Reply #12 on:** January 09, 2010, 09:10:15 PM »

One more thing for you to perhaps consider..I've heard of company's that deliver cars for folks who have moved to Alaska...they advertise for people to drive the cars for them, and perhaps they even cover gas money..migh be something to consider..if you can work out the logistics.
Mark

chobbs · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2010, 06:08:19 AM »

Like the other two posters said.. The first thing you should do is get a copy of the Milepost. That is the most important thing to do first. Then you can look at all the maps, and plan your trip a lot easier.
Depending on what time of year you are going. I would drive up the Alaska Highway, and back down the Cassiar. The Cassiar is a lot more scenic, if the weather is nice. It is not as wide, and in as good of condition as the Alaska, its still not that bad. And the Yellowhead Highway is in great condition.
Another reason for doing the Cassiar on the way home. If it is late July or in Aug, or early Sept. Stop in Hyder, Alaska. There is a bear viewing platform there. You can see brown and black bear real close feeding on salmon.

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #14 on:** January 11, 2010, 04:19:32 PM »

I'll second what Chobbs said. I was planning to advise going up the Alcan and back down the Cassiar. I drove the Alcan in 1970 (from Fairbanks down in summer, then in winter back up to home, towing a horse trailer (with horse) with a 1966 Ford Falcon). In 1978 I drove from Fairbanks down to Prince Rupert via the Cassiar. They were just building it then. The contracts had been let for about twenty mile sections. Depending on the contractor, I would go from raw dirt to pavement to gravel. It was very interesting! I read somewhere that the Cassiar route was the route Slim Williams used when he mushed a team of dogs from Fairbanks to Washington, D.C. The Alcan was built further inland to reduce the chance of the Japanese bombing it.

-Winter Hawk-

Drilling Man · « **Reply #15 on:** January 11, 2010, 05:00:08 PM »

I've been down the Cassiar a few too, and it's one rough SOB compared to the ALCAN these days.

DM

cwop · « **Reply #16 on:** January 15, 2010, 07:17:21 AM »

4 or 5 years ago we bought plane tickets rented a car very reasonbly, took our tent and supplies and had a blast. flew into anchorage camped a couple of days there very reasonable and took off. we drove 2600 miles in 3 weeks and went clear to jeanaue on via feery very pricey by the way.

we had a wonderful time but saw very little wildlife all the touritst were complaining. it was a wonderful experience and we want to go again.

bob

Sourdough · « **Reply #17 on:** January 20, 2010, 12:26:39 PM »

I drove the Cassier highway to the Alcan, then on to Fairbanks two summers ago in a sports car. Good paved highway all the way, except the construction around Destruction bay. Saw lots of wild life. Dall Sheep, Stone Sheep, Black Bears, Wolves, Caribou, Moose, Coyotes, Foxes, and Wood Bison, all on the road. We took our time and stayed in hotels every night. The only fuel problem we had was after we got into Alaska, no one had Premium till we got to Delta.

But by all means, get a current Mile Post and look it over before starting.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #18 on:** January 21, 2010, 05:04:34 AM »

Quote from: Sourdough on January 20, 2010, 12:26:39 PM

I drove the Cassier highway to the Alcan, then on to Fairbanks two summers ago in a sports car. Good paved highway all the way, except the construction around Destruction bay. Saw lots of wild life. Dall Sheep, Stone Sheep, Black Bears, Wolves, Caribou, Moose, Coyotes, Foxes, and Wood Bison, all on the road. We took our time and stayed in hotels every night. The only fuel problem we had was after we got into Alaska, no one had Premium till we got to Delta.

But by all means, get a current Mile Post and look it over before starting.

In that case, it has been improved a lot in the last several years, cause the last time i was over it, it was very rough and reminded me of the OLD ALCAN! Pretty trip though...

DM

Sourdough · « **Reply #19 on:** January 22, 2010, 05:46:52 AM »

Drillingman: Yea I first drove it in 85 and it was mostly gravel then. Still narrow two lane but paved all the way. Stopped at a small town about 7 miles off the Cassaier and spent a couple of days there. Quaint little place, that was having a car show. They even let me enter my Mazda RX-8. I got the award for the most modern and latest inovations. Car was only two months out of the showroom.

What most people don't understand, Paved does not mean smooth road. Frost heaves wreak havoc on pavement. What was great last week might no be so good this week. Depending on the freeze thaw situation.

bulletstuffer · « **Reply #20 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:08:02 AM »

Teddyb12,

Take the trip!!! I have seen many people do the could of should of scenerio. Done it myself

The next thing you know whether it's finances, health issues, or Murphys law the dream is out of reach. I have been fortunate to go to Alaska twice. First time in 1985 and last time in 04. Just had to check the time stamp from pics for last date

First trip lasted over 5 months. Lived in my van, fished everyday

gas food and lodging was $3,000. That was every penny I had to my name. Drove from Indiana on the first trip through the national parks and up to Alaska . Fished in AK for 9 weeks. Took the ferry from Haines to Seatle and drove the coast to San Diego to find a job for the winter. Second trip was a fly in fishing trip. Flew into Whitehorse and drove to Alaska from there. 2 week trip cost more than than the first one

People always tell you reasons why you can't or shouldn't go. In 1985 I looked around at all the old people that were still working and figured I had plenty of time to work

Made a good guess on that one

Point is don't have to spend alot of money to have a great time and just go with what you got;) God Bless America!!!

Bulletstuffer

teddy12b · « **Reply #21 on:** February 15, 2010, 08:47:19 AM »

I'm still working on getting my wife on board with this. The big problem is that we don't want to be there only a week, and we're not sure this is the best place or trip to take a baby and being away from the baby for more than a week wouldn't be fun. I think we'll take this trip. If not now, definately when I retire or have more time. As much as I want to go on this trip it worked out that I could go on a bear hunt this year which is higher up on the list so I don't feel too bad. Believe me, if I didn't have a wife, child & full time job I'd take a trip exactly like what you did. That kind of trip is going to have to wait for retirement for me, which is only about 30 years away

.

I've actually stumbled on a great resource for this trip and I'd like to share it with all of you who don't know about it. Google maps has a feature on it where you can see pictures & videos that people have taken from all over the world. Just zoom the map where you are thinking of traveling, click on the box that says "MORE", then check the boxes that say "Pictures" and "Video". It's gives a very good idea of what an area is like before ever going there. In populated areas you can use the street view feature, but in the middle of nowhere, the pictures and videos are the best bet.

Savage .250 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 16, 2010, 02:17:39 AM »

Never have but I`ll bet it`s one whale of a trip.

Sourdough · « **Reply #23 on:** February 17, 2010, 06:15:04 AM »

Back in 1978 Michelle and I drove the highway with a load of horses. We were in no hurry, and when she looked at a mountain and asked, "Wonder what is on the other side of that mountain", we unloaded the horses and went and found out. Road was mostly gravel back then, but we had a new truck and horse trailer. The only problem we had was the brakes went out on the trailer 80 miles out of Anchorage. No big deal since I was driving a one ton Dodge that had enough stopping power. We also had lots of time. It took us 14 days to drive from Pheonix to Anchorage, wonderful trip. Also did a lot of fishing along the way.

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2010, 04:35:12 PM »

Not trying to one-up you, but I went down to Oklahoma for farrier school in 1970. That didn't work out so we headed back home to the cabin in Fairbanks. We had got a horse in OK, and wanted to haul it home also. Bought a one horse trailer for $100, put a bumper hitch on the Ford Falcon and headed North. We made it but the car was worn out by the time we did! This was in the winter and we ended up in the ditch at one point when I had to choose it over hitting a grader. The operator pulled us out after calling me all sorts of stupid. About 100 miles from Whitehorse the rotor contact burned clear off. I stuffed some aluminum from a chicken pot pie tin into the top of the Bakelite and formed it over the end of the arm, then drove into Whitehorse where I got a new rotor. Man, what a trip!

-Winter Hawk

Dand · « **Reply #25 on:** February 17, 2010, 10:38:59 PM »

Teddy, if the bear trip is higher on the list go for it. But don't let the baby thing knock you out. Tho I can see a real small one might be a little tough. But it isn't like crossing the plains in a covered wagon. Actually a real small baby that sleeps a lot might be better than a 5 yr asking "are we there yet?" 500 times a day and having to pee every 30 miles. Those neighbor friends of ours took their 1 or 2 yr old down the road in the winter, possibly back up in spring too. I forget exactly, they bop around so much I lose track. But I would encourage you to budget some time to really see the place and enjoy it I met a guy at a rest stop once. He was from S. Cal and had driven up in 3 days, turned 'round in Anchorage and headed south again and was complaining the fishing was poor. Well yeah as all he did was flog the water under the highway bridges and didn't take time to explore at all. Couldn't get him to follow me downstream a half mile to see if there were any fish. He saw a lot of road and burned a lot of gas but never really saw Alaska. Folks like him - I'm happy to see 'em leave fast.