Ponduring an idea

[Robert lehman]

I was wondering would the frame crack if i was to drill and tap a hole on each side of it towards the the standing breech. this purpose would be to screw in set screws with spring loaded ball in the end and have a detent notch in the under lug to help with barrel lock up and torque on the barrel. Do you guys think it will work has anybody tried this before. each set screw would add 5lbs. of force at the ball end. Set screws are 10-32. The rifle is a .243 with a bull barrel.

[mitchell]

seams like a lot of work when a good barrel fitting job works just fine, but that is something to think about. hummmm

[Robert lehman]

 I have access to a full machine shop it would only take 45min to an hour to do this.

[Singleshotsam]

The question you have to ask yourself is what will the end result gain?

Does the rifle shoot MOA as it is?  If it shoots 1moa with factory ammo, leave it be.  If you want it to shoot sub moa then I suggest hand loading. 

Does your bbl lack proper lockup?  Or is this just an "out of curiosity" project.

I normally wouldn't recommend drilling any holes in the reciever. 

[Robert lehman]

As far as accuraccy goes with hand loads the best i have done so far is 2" at 100 yards.
The barrel locks up well the wear patttern on the latch is even i can put .0015 feeler gauge between the barrel and breech it locks up pretty tight on it.
The reason for all this would be my patterns tend to string horizantle which would be from barrel torque. And iam not very good with glue and fitting shims
thought about welding the inside of the reciever up and fitting it that still not sure about that idea probaly last resort or will not at all. Priced the steel bed
dont have $45.00 exta right now with work slow i have a little extra time might end up being a bad thing. I traded some old diesel parts for this gun only have fifty dollars invested in it and the guy never wiped the receiver down so his hand prints are rusted all through out the gun so the gun looks rough any ways. So ithought this would be a easy fix just was wonder if the frame would hold up or not? Iam sure not to many guys drill extra holes in the guns thought i might get lucky and find some one that drilled a fram before and would no if it would affect the integrity of it.

[Singleshotsam]

Here ya go chief...

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums//index.php/topic,88528.msg534874.html

7 bucks at the auto parts store and you'll be good to go.  Just remember to use a lot of release agent on your hinge pin and action..  I used strait JB and mink oil for a release agent on my .223 bbl fitting job and it turned out perfect.  It's really easy.  I had a lot of trouble w/ the shims as well and this meathod worked 100% for me.

Good Luck

As far as the rust problem goes, when you get a few bucks saved up, go buy some GunKote from Brownells or Midway, sand the bbl down and do the spray and bake route.  That's what I love about Handi's.  They are inexpensive to buy, and inexpensive to maintain

[quickdtoo]

If you want to bed the underlug, use SuperWeld, it's not expensive, is available locally in many stores, is metalized and has almost 3 times the compressive strength of Devcon, there's a link in the barrel fitting info.

Tim

[Robert lehman]

Thanks quickdtoo and Singleshotman i will try that first.

[Singleshotsam]

   No problem man, thats why were here.

My personal experience has taught me to seek the path of least expense and time before dropping too much time or cost into a project.