How much effort to close bolt before FL sizing is needed?

[MZ5]

Normally I only neck-size my rifle brass, at least for the bolt guns.  My lever needs me to FL size each time.  I have a .243Win with which I feel extra resistance when closing the bolt on the brass.  To be clear, it'd definitely not the bullet jamming the lands.  This barrel has a pretty long throat, such that I can't even touch the lands with lightweight bullets (70 grains and down) at any half-reasonable seating depth I've ever tried.

My question is:  Is there a certain amount of resistance with respect to closing the bolt that is a sign I need to full-length size the brass?  Right now, it'll still close without too much effort, but I definitely notice the resistance.  Or, is there ever a time short of complete inability to close the bolt that I need to FL size?  Can I just go on until I can't physically close it?  Thanks for any input.

[John Traveler]

It depends on how serious the use is for your rifle.

Bolt action rifles have powerful bolt camming which allows closing on a slightly oversize cartridge case.  The real problem with forcing an oversized case into the chamber and firing is that you may have extraction failure.  Many rifle designs depend on spring tension to hold an extractor against the case groove, and a tight case may leave you with a jammed rifle.

For hunting or field use, I always full-length resize for reliability.

For varmint hunting and maximum accuracy, being able to close the bolt with your finger tips should be good enough.

For range use and sighting in, if you have to lean on the bolt handle with your palm, it's time to fl size again.

Note that the .243 Winchester as a short, thick, and strong case.  That large shoulder cone area is what is pushed back during chambering.  If takes full palm force to close the bolt, you know it is time to fl size.

[SHOOTALL]

when you fire a bolt action rifle the case is formed to the walls of the chamber and bolt face . extraction would be dependent on pressure at the time of the shot . I have had cases that for one reason or another required extream effort to close the bolt on yet extracted easy after the shot as they were fire formed to the gun .

[MZ5]

This is a Savage 110 that I put this heavy .243 barrel on.  It also has a bipod on it, and I just can't envision myself ever packing it around for 'regular' hunting.  I shoot paper, cans, varmints and the like with it.  I'm within the powder charge range listed by my book, and I have absolutely no excess pressure signs.  No extraction issues to date, and I can still easily close the bolt with my thumb or finger(s).  So, sounds like I'm not in 'need' of a FL resize at this point?  Meaning I can save the money a while?

How about this:  How many loadings do those of you who neck-size usually get on your .243 Win brass?  Both before you have to FL size it and until outright failure.  5 loads?  10?  20?

[reelhook]

Your problem is probably not FL sizeing but overall length-trim them

[bja105]

I had a similar Savage in 25-06 that I neck sized for with a Lee Collet die.  After a couple times, it would give me resistance.  I found that the cases that chambered with resistance hit a different spot than the ones that chambered easily.  Even if a batch was treated the same, some cases would chamber easier than others.
My solution was to full length size every time, and set the rifle's headspace to match the dies.  I keep a shell holder specific to the rifle, and set the die to touch the shell holder (with no case.)  Then set the rifles headspace with the sized case.
I think that particular action is now a 338 Win mag.  I have 3 actions, and barrels for 243, 270, 25-06, 7mm mag, 300 mag, and 458 Mag.


I doubt that your case length is too long if you are only neck sizing.
Does your fired, un sized case chamber easily?  What about a neck sized case, no bullet.  When you get resistance, trim.  That should prove or disprove case length.  seat a bullet, see if it changes.

[MZ5]

The issue is not trim length.  Trimming has no impact and cases are at min trim (short as or shorter than brand new brass which doesn't need the little extra effort).  I haven't seen any POI differences, but then I've just been working up some new loads (new powder, very light bullets vs. the heavies I normally shoot).  I'll keep an eye out for that and see if I need a FL sizer.  Thanks!