Author Topic: My $65 DIY .357 Mag Handi (Read 9349 times)

MSP Ret · « **Reply #30 on:** March 20, 2009, 05:14:43 PM »

I have a .45 ACP Handi and it is GREAT!!! A real fun gun with many uses around camp and the home. It is professionally stubbed with a fine SS barrel and I like it very much. That said I would like to try my hand at a rebarrel like yours some day, and thanks for the info. If this country keeps going like it is lately this may be how we have to get our guns in the future, make them up from left over pieces and scrap. May heaven help and protect us all from those within and without that are trying to destroy the USA....<><....

maglvr44 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 20, 2009, 10:59:04 PM »

You are all most welcome indeed, i'm happy to see you found it an interesting read and I hope it may inspire some of you who may have thought it was something you could not do because you don't have a machine shop to play in. Amazing things can be done with a careful eye and the most basic of hand tools, look at the invention of the wheel for instance

Tommyt · « **Reply #32 on:** March 21, 2009, 04:22:48 AM »

I copied and Blew up your Ejector for those who asked
I hope you don't mind if so I will remove it
I really enjoyed your Post and thank you
I have a couple Handy Shot Guns collecting dust
I may now have found a New Light to shine them

Can you Send me or Post a Picture of the Joining where the Taper is ?
I'll try this again 6 inch's or so in from the Hammer that meeting of the 2 Barrels
For no other reason than I want to see the Taper to and From

Thanks
tommyt

edited to say
Oops I forgot the Picture

jlwilliams · « **Reply #33 on:** March 21, 2009, 09:37:05 AM »

Nice work! Way better than waiting around for the company to deliver one!

maglvr44 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 21, 2009, 02:23:37 PM »

Quote from: jlwilliams on March 21, 2009, 09:37:05 AM

Nice work! Way better than waiting around for the company to deliver one!

Thank you for the compliment!
And it EJECTS the empty, like a gun should, something 4 "American" gun companies have forgotten how to do, all to save a dime, Sad times we live in.

maglvr44 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 21, 2009, 02:40:01 PM »

Quote from: Tommyt on March 21, 2009, 04:22:48 AM

I copied and Blew up your Ejector for those who asked
I hope you don't mind if so I will remove it
I really enjoyed your Post and thank you
I have a couple Handy Shot Guns collecting dust
I may now have found a New Light to shine them
Can you Send me or Post a Picture of the Joining where the Taper is ?
I'll try this again 6 inch's or so in from the Hammer that meeting of the 2 Barrels
For no other reason than I want to see the Taper to and From

Thanks
tommyt

edited to say
Oops I forgot the Picture

No problem on the picture, The taper I spoke of is the step-down from the chamber to the bore of the 12ga.
after I had the 357 barrel solidly mounted in the 12ga. I carefully cut away the 12ga roughly 1" out in front of the step down, it might have been easier to cut it first but I was considering leaving the 12ga barrel full length and making a bull barrel just to be different, but once I felt the weight with both barrels it wasn't what I wanted. The ridge left between the 2 barrels was filled with epoxy putty and blended smooth before painting. Hope this helps.

Tommyt · « **Reply #36 on:** March 22, 2009, 11:29:59 AM »

Thanks
I took a better look at it
The Barrel Band by the Front Sight is that where the two Barrels would have been exposed

maglvr44 · « **Reply #37 on:** March 22, 2009, 03:13:20 PM »

Quote from: Tommyt on March 22, 2009, 11:29:59 AM

Thanks
I took a better look at it
The Barrel Band by the Front Sight is that where the two Barrels would have been exposed

For whatever reason, that 357 barrel was made with a "upstepped" section about 2" back from the muzzle, I had intended to use that as another mounting point if I had stuck with the bull barrel idea, but I liked the looks of it exposed so I left it in place, the added weight also helped the balance a bit.

brennemanj83 · « **Reply #38 on:** March 22, 2009, 03:26:14 PM »

For anyone that is interested here is a link to the barrel blank like he used for his stub barrel.

They are $26.20 at Numrich

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=957250

maglvr44 · « **Reply #39 on:** March 22, 2009, 06:31:56 PM »

Quote from: brennemanj83 on March 22, 2009, 03:26:14 PM

For anyone that is interested here is a link to the barrel blank like he used for his stub barrel.

They are $26.20 at Numrich

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=957250

Wow! What a deal, I think i'll grab a couple more at that price! Thank you

jedman · « **Reply #40 on:** March 23, 2009, 03:57:28 AM »

maglvr-44, Numrich also has that blank in a 44 mag, pre chambered and is the exact barrel I used in making the 3 , 44 specials so far. The barrels have a very nice smooth bore about 1 in 20" twist and slug dia. about .430 they are really high quality for a good price. Jedman

maglvr44 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 23, 2009, 06:31:20 PM »

Quote from: jedman on March 23, 2009, 03:57:28 AM

maglvr-44, Numrich also has that blank in a 44 mag, pre chambered and is the exact barrel I used in making the 3 , 44 specials so far. The barrels have a very nice smooth bore about 1 in 20" twist and slug dia. about .430 they are really high quality for a good price. Jedman

COOL! great to know! Thank you very much! I gotta order a couple and get a spl in the works! Just so happens i have a box of 250gr hard cast and some brass

maglvr44 · « **Reply #42 on:** March 23, 2009, 07:26:07 PM »

Quote from: jedman on March 23, 2009, 03:57:28 AM

maglvr-44, Numrich also has that blank in a 44 mag, pre chambered and is the exact barrel I used in making the 3 , 44 specials so far. The barrels have a very nice smooth bore about 1 in 20" twist and slug dia. about .430 they are really high quality for a good price. Jedman

Jedman:
Would you have a link handy? I looked and couldn't locate it on the site.
Thanks!!

Dweezil · « **Reply #43 on:** April 09, 2009, 11:24:24 AM »

Couple questions: were there certain years that "small firing pin" Handi shotguns were made? Would it be dangerous to do this with a Large firing Pin Handi? Also, with the SB1 frame would it be excessive to ream this to 357 Maxi? Awesome job. I just ordered that barrel after viewing this post. Always wanted a .357 Handi...just didn't want to wait.

maglvr44 · « **Reply #44 on:** April 09, 2009, 09:49:31 PM »

Quote from: Dweezil on April 09, 2009, 11:24:24 AM

Couple questions: were there certain years that "small firing pin" Handi shotguns were made? Would it be dangerous to do this with a Large firing Pin Handi? Also, with the SB1 frame would it be excessive to ream this to 357 Maxi? Awesome job. I just ordered that barrel after viewing this post. Always wanted a .357 Handi...just didn't want to wait.

I have a 28ga "Handi" that has the most incredibly light trigger pull, It would cost a good sum of cash to have a trigger worked like that by a gunsmith, how it ever got out of the factory i'll never know, it is a large firing pin version, being the curious type I just had to find out what it would do with some heavy 200gr hard cast loads, what it did was nothing different that what the small firing pin one did, I might swap barrels around if I can convince myself a saddle ring 28ga is cool

jlwilliams · « **Reply #45 on:** April 10, 2009, 04:35:24 AM »

I'm really excited by this project of yours. I have an old 12g single and a barrel blank set aside to do one myself. Just need a little time.

troy5775 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 10, 2009, 06:37:37 AM »

Quote from: maglvr44 on March 23, 2009, 07:26:07 PM

Quote from: jedman on March 23, 2009, 03:57:28 AM
maglvr-44, Numrich also has that blank in a 44 mag, pre chambered and is the exact barrel I used in making the 3 , 44 specials so far. The barrels have a very nice smooth bore about 1 in 20" twist and slug dia. about .430 they are really high quality for a good price. Jedman
Jedman:
Would you have a link handy? I looked and couldn't locate it on the site.
Thanks!!

http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=585600&chrSuperSKU=&MC=

zoner · « **Reply #47 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:08:49 AM »

i don't think that 44 barrel will work for this project...the barrel maglvr used was .795 diameter at the breech..he only needed to take about .020 off it to make it fit in the chamber of the 12 barrel...so little that he was able to do it with a belt sander and keep the bore centered....that 44 barrel says it is 1 3/16 "diameter at the breech so without a lathe I doubt it is possible to remove that much metal and still keep the bore centered in what you have left

Dweezil · « **Reply #48 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:39:56 AM »

Quote from: maglvr44 on April 09, 2009, 09:49:31 PM

Quote from: Dweezil on April 09, 2009, 11:24:24 AM
Couple questions: were there certain years that "small firing pin" Handi shotguns were made? Would it be dangerous to do this with a Large firing Pin Handi? Also, with the SB1 frame would it be excessive to ream this to 357 Maxi? Awesome job. I just ordered that barrel after viewing this post. Always wanted a .357 Handi...just didn't want to wait.
I have a 28ga "Handi" that has the most incredibly light trigger pull, It would cost a good sum of cash to have a trigger worked like that by a gunsmith, how it ever got out of the factory i'll never know, it is a large firing pin version, being the curious type I just had to find out what it would do with some heavy 200gr hard cast loads, what it did was nothing different that what the small firing pin one did, I might swap barrels around if I can convince myself a saddle ring 28ga is cool

Cool. So just to clarify...you took the stubbed barrel you described to us, put it in this 28ga frame and shot it? How many rounds did you shoot? Did you have to do any shimming to make the barrel fit the receiver or did you get lucky and have it fit without mods?

maglvr44 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 11, 2009, 02:50:52 AM »

Quote from: Dweezil on April 10, 2009, 09:39:56 AM

Quote from: maglvr44 on April 09, 2009, 09:49:31 PM
Quote from: Dweezil on April 09, 2009, 11:24:24 AM
Couple questions: were there certain years that "small firing pin" Handi shotguns were made? Would it be dangerous to do this with a Large firing Pin Handi? Also, with the SB1 frame would it be excessive to ream this to 357 Maxi? Awesome job. I just ordered that barrel after viewing this post. Always wanted a .357 Handi...just didn't want to wait.
I have a 28ga "Handi" that has the most incredibly light trigger pull, It would cost a good sum of cash to have a trigger worked like that by a gunsmith, how it ever got out of the factory i'll never know, it is a large firing pin version, being the curious type I just had to find out what it would do with some heavy 200gr hard cast loads, what it did was nothing different that what the small firing pin one did, I might swap barrels around if I can convince myself a saddle ring 28ga is cool

Cool. So just to clarify...you took the stubbed barrel you described to us, put it in this 28ga frame and shot it? How many rounds did you shoot? Did you have to do any shimming to make the barrel fit the receiver or did you get lucky and have it fit without mods?

Yes, I shot a few rounds of hot 357 on the 28ga frame also, no cratered primers or any other problems at all, worked out just fine!
no barrel fitting of any kind was necessary, it was a perfect fit. Barrels interchange with no prob. between the two.
I just test fired a 44spl made on a Savage 94 action yesterday, it has a large firing pin hole also , no cratering in that either but I didn't expect any with pressures running only slightly hotter than a 3" .410 shell ( a 3" .410 has more pressure than a 12ga. does) and seeing the Savage was factory tested with proof loads there was little reason for concern.
I would NOT show a Savage a 357 or 44mag loading!

billy_56081 · « **Reply #50 on:** April 11, 2009, 03:06:27 AM »

Thank you for sharing, I just ordered a .357 barrel from gun parts corp. Now I'll have to find a stub.

mtbugle · « **Reply #51 on:** April 11, 2009, 01:28:12 PM »

I just ordered 2 as well. Think I may have to try the bull barrel idea with it extending a few inches past muzzel. I plan on subsonic loads for urban rockchucks. 22 subsonic range is little limited, like to snipe a little farther. small noise keeps neighbers happy and permission to shoot in this area.
thanks Don.

maglvr44 · « **Reply #52 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:43:55 PM »

Quote from: mtbugle on April 11, 2009, 01:28:12 PM

I just ordered 2 as well. Think I may have to try the bull barrel idea with it extending a few inches past muzzel. I plan on subsonic loads for urban rockchucks. 22 subsonic range is little limited, like to snipe a little farther. small noise keeps neighbers happy and permission to shoot in this area.
thanks Don.

Fun project and a really handy gun to have around! You guys will both love them!!!
best of luck on the new toys.

maglvr44 · « **Reply #53 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:54:34 PM »

Quote from: zoner on April 10, 2009, 09:08:49 AM

i don't think that 44 barrel will work for this project...the barrel maglvr used was .795 diameter at the breech..he only needed to take about .020 off it to make it fit in the chamber of the 12 barrel...so little that he was able to do it with a belt sander and keep the bore centered....that 44 barrel says it is 1 3/16 "diameter at the breech so without a lathe I doubt it is possible to remove that much metal and still keep the bore centered in what you have left

Also, the description of those H&R barrels does not say they are chambered, and they may well not be! best to call and ask before ordering if you don't have the reamer.

Dweezil · « **Reply #54 on:** April 13, 2009, 07:22:31 AM »

If it IS chambered and you need to reduce the barrel OD without a lathe, it CAN be done with a decent size drill press as long as the distance between the press chuck and the baseplate is at least an inch longer than your barrel. In about 2 hours and $15 in specialized tooling, you can turn most drill presses into a rudimentary vertical lathe. I've turned a couple shorter barrels this way. Of course, you can't thread but you can do basic turning.
Tool list: Drill press. Plumb bob with string. All thread with lock nuts. Electrical tape. 1 fired case. Assorted drill bits. Bearing/race with ID size of all thread. Decent calipers. Large metal file. Hacksaw. Imagination.

See if you can figure it out.

When I do my next one, I'll take photos if someone more experienced here knows how to post them.

troy5775 · « **Reply #55 on:** April 13, 2009, 07:50:45 AM »

Crazy idea but has anyone ever tried removing the lug from a donor barrel and welding it onto another? I was wondering about using a cut off wheel on a die-grinder or drimmel tool to cut off the lug and cutting a groove in the new barrel for the ejector.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #56 on:** April 13, 2009, 09:13:30 AM »

Quote from: Dweezil on April 13, 2009, 07:22:31 AM

When I do my next one, I'll take photos if someone more experienced here knows how to post them.

Pic posting help can be found in the FAQs, and also in any of the classified forums, if that doesn't work for ya, you can email them to me and I'll add them to your post.

Tim

Dweezil · « **Reply #57 on:** April 15, 2009, 05:56:02 AM »

Found a donor shotgun. It's a very lightly used NV prefix 12 guage with tight lockup. They're asking $100. Is this a reasonable price? I really only need the barrel but if the new barrel fits one of my current SB2 frames, I can sell the donor receiver. What's the going rate for SB1 receivers of this vintage? Payday is Friday.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #58 on:** April 15, 2009, 02:22:09 PM »

SB1 frames sell for $25-$50 or so, check the classifieds, we don't delete ads after they're sold, they're all still there to look at for selling prices.

Tim

Hammerspur · « **Reply #59 on:** April 15, 2009, 02:51:35 PM »

Quote from: Dweezil on April 13, 2009, 07:22:31 AM

If it IS chambered and you need to reduce the barrel OD without a lathe, it CAN be done with a decent size drill press as long as the distance between the press chuck and the baseplate is at least an inch longer than your barrel. In about 2 hours and $15 in specialized tooling, you can turn most drill presses into a rudimentary vertical lathe. I've turned a couple shorter barrels this way. Of course, you can't thread but you can do basic turning.
Tool list: Drill press. Plumb bob with string. All thread with lock nuts. Electrical tape. 1 fired case. Assorted drill bits. Bearing/race with ID size of all thread. Decent calipers. Large metal file. Hacksaw. Imagination.

See if you can figure it out.

When I do my next one, I'll take photos if someone more experienced here knows how to post them.

I've not yet done any barrel work but I've considered it.
Here's a pic for illustration of a method I've used on smaller stuff for having my drill press function as an improvised vertical lathe:

I'm all ears (and eyes) for your method!

PM sent.