Author Topic: .22 Hornet shooters (Read 2821 times)

beavdha · « **on:** March 15, 2009, 02:10:23 PM »

First - thanks for all the previous posts on the .22 hornet. I've been contemplating getting one for a couple of years - picked up a barrel at the gun show this weekend. I'm searching for some .22 hornet rounds - ordered some from our rod and gun club on base here at Wright Patt (Winchester). I have been looking at Cabela's and was wondering if anyone has tried the HSM rounds from Cabela's and which ones have you tried? Which ones performed the best on ground hogs? I was looking at their 37 grain and 42 grain rounds. Your thoughts? (forgot the barrel is the 14" barrel).

Thanks

Don

VARMONTER · « **Reply #1 on:** March 15, 2009, 02:51:41 PM »

I shoot the hornet.But i reload.I never had much luck with factory rounds.
My first choice would be the 37 gr . As they will probably perform better than the heavier
bullet.

beavdha · « **Reply #2 on:** March 15, 2009, 03:20:36 PM »

Thanks Varmonter!

snowbelt45 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 15, 2009, 03:35:50 PM »

I have 2 Hornets and 1 K-Hornet in contenders. I find that most bullets in the 35 to 45 grain range will perform well. I have found my best performance with the 40 grain V-max and 40 grain nosler varmit bullets. I have also had sucess with 35 grain V-max. I recently purchased some Midway dogtown on 34 grain HP and still working on loads, but the seem to perform well. Also the Remington 45 grain HP is a standard bullet for me. Try giving Lil Gun a try. I am finding it to be quite accurate behind the 40 grain bullets. H-110 is another good powder in shorter barrels.

Of all the calibers I shoot, the Hornet is the most accurate and economical. I'm sure you will have the same results if you reload. I have never had much luck with factory ammo. but that's a good reason to start reloading if you don't already!

Good Luck and happy shooting!

Snowbelt45

Ladobe · « **Reply #4 on:** March 15, 2009, 03:42:28 PM »

I've always reloaded, so can't speak of factory loaded Hornet ammo. But can say the Winchester 46 gr. OPE, Sierra 45 gr. Hornet and Hornady 33 gr V-Max were easily the best shooting bullets in every 22 Hornet I've owned (and I've owned a bunch of them) FWIW. First choice is the 46 OPE's, but I'm getting low on them.

beavdha · « **Reply #5 on:** March 16, 2009, 01:01:29 AM »

What does OPE stand for?

Ladobe · « **Reply #6 on:** March 16, 2009, 05:38:00 AM »

Open Point Expanding

beavdha · « **Reply #7 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:36:10 AM »

Thanks Ladobe. I've always seen them listed as HP for hollow point.

Ladobe · « **Reply #8 on:** March 16, 2009, 10:44:09 AM »

I thought they stopped making them years ago. Had so many OPE's stockpiled that I never looked for a new supply of them (and because I switched to 17 Ackley Hornets a long time ago I retired & then sold most of the 22 Hornets). Not sure what, if anything is different between the 46 gr. OPE and 46 gr. HP other than the name Winchester puts on them. All that I've used for decades were bought long ago and marked OPE. Winchester probably just renamed them . Maybe they stopped making the 46 gr. OPE for a time and then brought it back as the HP? Regardless, never had a 22 Hornet that didn't shoot them well and the only 22H I still have left (my 60 year old BRNO ZKW 465) simply loves them.

hunterspistol · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2009, 10:12:02 PM »

The 22 Hornet is what I started reloading for, in silhouette shooting. I shot about 4 boxes of factory ammo, Winchester,Winchester Supreme, and Remington. I liked the Winchester Supreme the best but, at $45.00/50 rounds, no way I could shoot a lot of it.

The most accurate 22 Hornet I've ever shot was a 50 grain Hornady V-Max bullet that I reloaded for. The 22 Hornet is a good round to reload, brass is average price, Winchester brass, primers. Jacketed bullets will shoot 1&1/2" at 100 meters(That little Hornady will shoot half that size!). In the TC, stay with light bullets under 55 grains(35,45&50s).

beavdha · « **Reply #10 on:** March 19, 2009, 01:09:15 AM »

Thanks for all the replies. I need to order some brass soon and some bullets. I'm going to have my brother-in-law reload them for me. I will have to supply the dies and materials. He has the reloading equipment.

Do you fully resize your brass or do you just resize the neck?

Slowpoke Slim · « **Reply #11 on:** March 19, 2009, 03:44:23 PM »

I've been full length resizing mine because that's the die I have. If you're only shooting from a Contender (ie, singleshot), you're better served to neck size in my opinion. I've been meaning to get myself a neck sizer for mine.

It's just that it shoots so darn good now, I hate to mess with a good thing.

Your brass will last longer with neck sizing, and you may get a bit more accuracy (I don't see how in my case, I'm already "one holing" the paper at 100 yds).

tc scout · « **Reply #12 on:** March 19, 2009, 04:41:22 PM »

Just got a neck sizer die. Going to give it a try on the next batch of reloads for my contender.

Trying to make the brass last as long as possible, maybe a little more accurate.

hunterspistol · « **Reply #13 on:** March 20, 2009, 09:32:38 PM »

Neck sizing makes the brass last longer and the accuracy comes from having cases that exactly fit your chamber. Sometimes you can feel the difference just by rolling them between your fingers. A new case will even feel smaller.
This means the powder charges will fire more consistently.

beavdha · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2009, 02:23:47 PM »

I'll order the neck sizing die then and the shell holders. My next question may be dumb (as I have never loaded brass shells before) Are the new unfired brass just ready to prime and load or do you have to size and trim them?

mbk · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2009, 03:43:33 PM »

If you are buying bulk brass, some of the case mouths will be dented - especially with the thin necked hornet brass. At minimum use a reversed bullet to to work the dent out. Sometimes it is easier just to neck size a whole batch if very many are dinged up. Still suggest working out any big dings before running the cases into the sizing die, the thin hornet brass is easy to fold the neck over on. You will also need to debur the outside of the neck and champher the inside for the bullet to go in easier. I also debur the inside of the flash holes but other will argue that point (I am picky). I would suggest waiting to trim the cases to length until after the first firing. It is not uncommon for the cases to shorten slightly on the first firing depending on the chamber dimensions. By the way I also have several Hornets, both 17's and 22's. I prefer the K's and Ackley improved for case life, but they are all fun and economical to shoot!

my 2 cents
Mike

beavdha · « **Reply #16 on:** March 22, 2009, 02:28:12 AM »

Thanks again for the replies. I really appreciate all your help.

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2009, 04:13:16 AM »

I'll second Mike on the bulk brass and reccomend the Lee Collet die for the neck sizing. Mine has made a big difference in case life and accuracy. I also like the Hornady bullet seater with sliding bushing to guide the bullet....saves a lot on those thin mouthed cases.
GOOD SHOOTIN', Walt

hunterspistol · « **Reply #18 on:** March 22, 2009, 08:44:01 AM »

I've had the pleasure of picking up a 100 round bag just to drop it on a concrete floor. Oh well, it' just a few dollars. You won't necessarily have to trim brass for several loadings, I managed to get a dial caliper-best reloading tool a man can own. You end up measuring everrything from bullet diameter, case length, Overall lengths, etc. It's my favorite device for one thousandths of an inch measurements.

Gerry N. · « **Reply #19 on:** March 27, 2009, 09:10:12 PM »

I've been shooting the Hornet for around twenty five years and have yet to pop a factory round. I got my first Hornet 'cause I wanted something to shoot cheap.

I have always run new bulk brass through a full length size die before I did anything else to it. Then I ream the flash holes. That's the last time any of my brass sees a full length size die.

Years ago MidwayUSA had a special on bulk fmj flat nose 40 gr Hornet bullets. I bought 2000 of 'em and wish I'd bout 20,000. I have no clue what they were made for, but in my 10" contender they do wonderfully with .3 cc of Unique and a CCI small pistol primer. That load is also a sweetheart in my Navy arms baby rolling block. Easy on me, the rifle and pistol and the brass. I neck size only in a Lee collet die. Some of my Hornet brass has been loaded fifteen times.

Gerry N.

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 28, 2009, 01:27:38 AM »

I have a 10" Contender. I have had good luck with Hornady 45 grain Hornet bullets and 9.5 grains of W296 with WSR primers and WW cases. I know they can put down a woodchuck with out a problem out to 100 yards. I never had a shot over that, but feel there should be no problems out to 150 yards or so. BTW I do not crimp, but you need to experiment to find what works best for you. Good Luck and Good Shooting

chucky52 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 15, 2009, 05:08:16 PM »

Wish I could find brass, bullets and primers for the Hornet barrel I just got.

securitysix · « **Reply #22 on:** April 20, 2009, 05:42:10 PM »

I've got a .22 K-Hornet barrel for my Contender. It's a carbine barrel and I use a Rynite buttstock and forend for it. The best groups I've gotten so far have been from fireforming factory .22 Hornet ammo, go figure that. I'm still experimenting with loads, hoping to find a 40 or 45 gr. SP or HP load that is sub-MOA and solid enough for coyotes.