Author Topic: Forend stud broke, what to do (Read 1699 times)

mitchell · « **on:** February 03, 2009, 10:52:12 AM »

i was out shooting my 30-06 ultra comp the other day , i shot it a few time and set it aside to let it cool. when i picked it back up to shoot again the front part of the stock came off in my hand. i looked in side it and the under lug was sitting inside it.

now i know the simplest way to fix this is just to send it back but this is mac's old 30-06 ultra comp and we all know how it shoots. i don't want to take a chance that they might just give me a new barrel. also i did a trigger job on that rifle and its way under what they call safe so i really dont want to send it back.

any ideas?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:04:27 AM »

You mean the forend stud came off, it's just resistance welded on....that's an easy fix, clean it good and stick it back on with JB Weld, I've repaired two that way, works fine as long as you clean and prepared the metal well.

Tim

AtlLaw · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:08:25 AM »

JB Weld... The Duct Tape of the firearms world!

Datil · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:55:22 AM »

Gotta use some Haywire too! Marv.

gendoc · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2009, 12:49:41 PM »

i can see where it would be okay to do that when your plug'n paper.......
but come face to face with a 300lb bore hawg

i would'nt trust it.
find you a custom welding shop that understands HEAT transfer!!!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** February 03, 2009, 12:53:35 PM »

Quote from: gendoc on February 03, 2009, 12:49:41 PM

i can see where it would be okay to do that when your plug'n paper.......
but come face to face with a 300lb bore hawg
i would'nt trust it.
find you a custom welding shop !!!

Then you'd better be prepared to spend some money the welder's shop cuz the factory spot welds are weaker than properly applied JB Weld!!

They've been know to pop off very easily. $:-\$

Tim

Airsporter · « **Reply #6 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:00:49 PM »

If your handi (pun intended) with files, you can dovetail it to the barrel.

trotterlg · « **Reply #7 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:03:15 PM »

Glue or paint have no place on a real rifle. Larry

gendoc · « **Reply #8 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:09:39 PM »

Quote from: trotterlg on February 03, 2009, 01:03:15 PM

Glue or paint have no place on a real rifle. Larry

AMEN...............

krod47nw · « **Reply #9 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:10:21 PM »

I got worried when you said "underlug"

quickdtoo · « **Reply #10 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:11:24 PM »

Yeah, me too!!

Tim

Jimbo47 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:20:38 PM »

Quote from: trotterlg on February 03, 2009, 01:03:15 PM

Glue or paint have no place on a real rifle. Larry

I remember not too many years ago I used to say that about plastic!

mitchell · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:33:53 PM »

give me a brake man ive been out of the handi world for a while i ment forend stud but for somee reason under lug came out

i'm not a big fan of jb weld but you got a point about a welding shop costing a lot might have to give it a try.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:41:44 PM »

You can always spend the money on the welding later if it doesn't work, but it's worked fine for me. JB has 1800psi adhesion strength. It's easy to use, just be sure to use a little sandpaper on the mounting surfaces to rough them up good and then degrease well.

Tim

http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

mitchell · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:43:51 PM »

will do thanks . and here i thought i lost one of the best handis in history

quickdtoo · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:47:11 PM »

That scared me too cuz I have Mac's 30-06 Ultracomp too!!

But it's the second one he bought, the one from another fella while the fella was trading it at his gun shop!!

Tim

mitchell · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:17:46 PM »

i've got two of em . the 30-06 everybody knows about, its the only handi i know of that can shoot in the .1's with factory ammo and a 270 i bought off of one of the guys here and its shooting in the .3's with my first reload and should get better , i don't see myself ever parting with either of them . with out a doubt the best gun NEF ever made.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:24:09 PM »

Mine is the one Mac shot the 2005 postal match with, the only thing I've shot in it is 200gr Nosler Partitions.

Tim

squirrellluck · « **Reply #18 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:25:46 PM »

Brownells bedding compound should hold it. Several years ago I put a set of double barrels back together with it as a experiment. I dismantled the vice and string setup after 100 rounds of high brass #4s Havent shot it from the shoulder but the barrels ring as they are supposed to if they are tight. No I dont advise putting barrels together this way but if holds up to it it or jb should hold the stud on forever

trotterlg · « **Reply #19 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:28:27 PM »

Bet that glue will de-tune the barrel and it will start shooting 6 inch groups. Larry

trotterlg · « **Reply #20 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:33:43 PM »

This is my 17 FB barrel, and it only works this way because it doesn't have any glue or paint on it. Larry

BC Steve · « **Reply #21 on:** February 03, 2009, 03:04:17 PM »

I know I guy that cut 10" off his BC barrel then changed his mind and JB welded it back on. He's been using it for 5 years and it's still shoots great.

Ten Ring · « **Reply #22 on:** February 03, 2009, 03:23:33 PM »

I think I'll take my shoes and socks off after that one. It's getting kinda deep in here.

PHATINJUN · « **Reply #23 on:** February 03, 2009, 03:35:30 PM »

I know a guy who cut 10" of his left leg and glued it back on...he walks with a limp now.

Now I'm gonna have to take a look at my ultra comp... maybe beef it up with some glue before it happens to me. Mitch just curious how hot was them loads or were they factory? Kurt

MSP Ret · « **Reply #24 on:** February 03, 2009, 04:03:38 PM »

After my hip replacement my left leg is about 1/4" shorter than my right one, do you think JB Weld will help? I use it quite a bit and recently bought some marine grade JB Weld. Going to try that out someday. Just last week I used some JB to make a breechplug wrench for my Huntsman and to repair an outdoor shower valve I left out a bit to late in the fall, it froze and split but is now all set for the spring. JB is great stuff, years ago I used it on the oil pan of a Triumph MC I had and it never failed or leaked...

Larry, good shooting, you almost hit that dime several times, better luck next time....<><....

mitchell · « **Reply #25 on:** February 03, 2009, 04:08:53 PM »

they where federal fusion 150grain, ive never found a better load and aint much point trying too either

briarpatch · « **Reply #26 on:** February 03, 2009, 07:10:39 PM »

BC Steve, Have you got a picture of this barrel and gun you could post.
Curious eyes would like to see it. That would sure be one for the sticky.

fortress49 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 04, 2009, 02:23:35 AM »

When I lost my first true love I tried JB weld to mend my broken heart. Alas, some things even JB weld can't fix...

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #28 on:** February 04, 2009, 03:48:53 AM »

lol @ fortress... for some reason i can visualize you crying and smearing JB on yourself

Mitch, I'd be leary about having any welds done to the bbl... not only costly, but could possibly change the dynamics of the bbl itself. I say that b/c there is a LOT of debate about fluting bbls after they've been forged. Research suggests that it screws w/ the harmonics of the metal. I would imagine that doing a weld on strong enough to hold could change the properities of the bbl metal.

I would think NEF would share the same concerns if they are tacking the forend stud on cool enough that it falls off later...

Just a thought to consider.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #29 on:** February 04, 2009, 05:38:37 AM »

Quote from: trotterlg on February 03, 2009, 02:33:43 PM

This is my 17 FB barrel, and it only works this way because it doesn't have any glue or paint on it. Larry

That's not entirely true Larry!!

Tim

Quote from: trotterlg on October 26, 2008, 06:30:54 AM

The breach nut is just a round nut threaded 20 tpi that screws onto the threaded end of the barrel to hold it against a sholder at the front of the stub, the rear of the stub is recessed about a half inch in the diameter of the nut. Most of the time I use a turned piece of the shotgun barrel to make the nut with. Most of the barrels use a barrel band for the forearm stud to attach to. On one project it worked out so that I turned the inside of the shotgun barrel with the stud attached to slide over the barrel and put a set screw through the forearm mount and locked it to the barrel that way. This project may have enough barrel diameter to drill and tap a stud directly into the barrel. Nothing secret here, I will tell you anything I know. I fill the .002 gap between the stub and the barrel with JB weld as a bedding agent, this leaves the entire stub with no voids in it, so it probably gains a little strength from the stub part of the barrel also. The pin is just an extra holding point, I drill it through the stub and barrel in front of the hinge point, you can see the end of the pin in the picture. Larry