Smith and Wesson cylinder swap

[docmagnum357]

I recently made a boo boo reloading.  i double charged a 44 magnum with Unique, and I bulged the cylinder it fired in.  Now extrction is impossible in  that particular cylinder.  All the other cylinders are fine, and I have no problem with magnums or lighter loads.  Accuracy has not been affected.  Timing seems fine.  Everything is fine except very difficult extrction.  Make that impossible.  I have to use a dowel rod and hammer to get the cases out.

I ordered a cylinder from Midway, and it is on the way.  I am hoping for a simple drop in replacement, but i know Smith and Wessons require some hand fitting.  What should i be on the look out for?  Are there any other problems that I might have caused by a double charge (aproxamately 18.6 of Unique?).  As I say, it's like it didn't happen except the one chamber.

This is a really smooth actioned gun, it is actually a pre model 29, and I want to customize it a little, with the later model front sight that is interchangable, and a good reblue job ( it is nickel now).  First time I ever had a problem like this in twenty five years of reloading.  Be careful if you ever get a new progressive reloader, reguardless of the brand.  Double charges are easy to do if you are unsure of what you are doing and not paying attention to everything that is going on.

[Autorim]

I would send it back to S&W for repair.

Ken

[jro45]

I've changed barrels on my handgun and had to fit it in by fileing here and there. You may have to fit it in.

[S.B.]

Can you get an actual pre 29 cylinder from Midway? S&W only works on post 1957 and later guns, IIRC?
Steve

[paulj84003]

To strap up a cylinder in a S&W.  You will have to check the barrel to cylinder gap, over the years this dim has changed slightly, also cylinder to frame gap, which is headspace. you should use a range rod to check chamber barrel alignment.  Might be wise to use a yoke alignment tool to check and see if there is misalignment.  The rachet if new may need planeing. A thicker or thinner hand may be required. A new cyl stop also should be fitted.  Just a few tings to be aware of.

Paul

[S.B.]

Head spacing is check from the fired shell(while in cylinder) to the recoil shield, isn't it? Not the back of cylinder to recoil shield. To better understand this process, get a S&W shop manual from S&W armorer or take this gun to him and have him fit your new cylinder. It's not as easy as it sounds without some experience.
Steve

[paulj84003]

Unless they have changed procedures S&W use to check from back of cyl to recoil shield.  I still have all the gauges. Of course on counter bored cyls you have to hope the recess's are the correct depth. or measure them.  For end shake you gauge both front and back. For instance rear gage for a 38/357/41/44 is .060-.068, for counter bored cyl 38/357 is .012 - .018.  front gauge currently is .004-.010. This measurment is without cartridges in the chambers.

Paul J

[docmagnum357]

I finally got a cylinder from S& W that is supposed to work.  A locla gunsmith says he is pretty sure he can get it to work.  He is also cutting the gun for moon clips while it is in the shop. So I should have a real humdinger when it comes out.

[Hammerdown]

I finally got a cylinder from S& W that is supposed to work.  A locla gunsmith says he is pretty sure he can get it to work.  He is also cutting the gun for moon clips while it is in the shop. So I should have a real humdinger when it comes out.

Hello
If the replacement cylinder measure exact in Length to what the original one was, along with the gas ring being in the same location and measurment I would say just switching out the extractor should allow the replacement cylinder to work fine...You may need to install some cylinder shims to get the correct forcing cone clearance as well...Hammerdown

[StrawHat]

I finally got a cylinder from S& W that is supposed to work.  A locla gunsmith says he is pretty sure he can get it to work.  He is also cutting the gun for moon clips while it is in the shop. So I should have a real humdinger when it comes out.

I won't tell you what to do but he'd better be more than pretty sure to work on a pre 29.

Lots of gunsmiths out there that know what is needed.  If in doubt, go with someone else.

[shotgunner]

I once had a 1917 with that problem. I bought a cylinder\crane assembly, used of course. I put the new cylinder on the original crane. I have a very small amount of fitting to do, and it worked perfectly. It was properly timed, lock up was tight and it was at least as accurate as it was before. By the way, if you have trouble with ingition, or the gun tying up in double action, endshake bearings are simple to install. They are washers that are .002 thick. I have a 38-44 that had been re-barreled when I bought it, one endshake bearing and it is slick. Good luck with the repair. It is reasonable to try before sending the gun away.Shotgunner