Author Topic: Using pins to hold handles / scales on full tangs.  (Read 770 times)

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Offline DC

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Using pins to hold handles / scales on full tangs.
« on: November 17, 2008, 08:12:41 AM »
 How do the pins we see on full tang knives hold the scales to the tang? Are they like rivets with the actual diameters less than what is visible?  How do you apply them?
I want to replace the handle scales on a WWII machette and need some advice.  I have a medical corpsmans bolo machette which with time has achieved REAL hardness.  I tried using a file to clean up the edge and it barely touched it.
 It is has a blade 11 inches long with a rolled edge and is very sharp.  I was going to buy a Trail Master but with this .25" thick blade and an incredible edge, this will be my camp knife / brush blade. While it is rusty and well pitted now, it will clean up well.  It is marked USMC and was given to me by my exfather in-law
Your help will be appreciated
Dana
Ruger M77 243, Browning B2000, Ruger 22's, Ruger Red Hawk, SBlackhawk, Savage 223 Target...about 20+rifles less than I used to have. :-(

Offline Joel

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Re: Using pins to hold handles / scales on full tangs.
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2008, 06:10:58 PM »
There are 3 types of rivet type fasteners. Cutlery Rivets, which I see on a lot of machetes.  They  consist of a solid male and hollow female bolt.  To fasten on a handle, you drill the proper sized hole for the bolt and then pound the male rivet into the female. They are soft, so the male spreads and locks inside the female to hold the scale on.  The next two are the corby fasteners and the loveless bolts.
The corby's also consist of a male/female section; but in this case the two are screwed together.  You need to drill a hole the size of the shafts, plus another counter sink hole for the fastener heads. The loveless bolts are similar to corby's but consist of a machine screw and two hollow nuts.  The machine screw goes through both nuts(one on each side of the handle and is tightened down.  It required a special step drill available from knife supply catalogs; in fact they carry step drills for both loveless and corbys.  Once the bolts are in place they are ground down flush with the handle.  Standard straight pins, i.e. 1/8"  1/4"  etc can be fastened two ways. One way is to cut the pin slightly larger than the handle thickness, place it through the pin hole so a little of the pins shows on each side and then peen the bit of pin showing down.  You have to be careful that you don't peen too much or that creates pressure on the handle material, which eventually crackes.  In the other method the the handle slabs are epoxed to the tang and then pins can be held in place by further epoxy through the pin hole or by doing the peening thing...or both.

Offline DC

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Re: Using pins to hold handles / scales on full tangs.
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2008, 06:23:03 AM »
 Thanks for your help.  I think my machette idea is a good one considering the natural temper the blade now has.  I even think that the character of the blade will be enhance after cleaning which will not remove all the staining.  In fact, I may cold blue it or "potatoe stain" it.  I am not sure what type of wood I will use for the hand and your suggestions would be helpful.  I have some slabs of Red Oak at home but am not sure if that is what I want.
Dana
Ruger M77 243, Browning B2000, Ruger 22's, Ruger Red Hawk, SBlackhawk, Savage 223 Target...about 20+rifles less than I used to have. :-(

Offline Joel

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Re: Using pins to hold handles / scales on full tangs.
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2008, 06:18:55 AM »
Red Oak is a nice strong wood.  I have some curing. Personally though, on a high impact tool like a machete, I prefer a synthetic.  Canvas or linen micarta make nice "grippy" handles and you can't hurt them.  Any of the knife supply catalogs carry them, with http://www.sheffieldsupply.com(pdf catalog) having a large variety of micarta, dymondwood, G-10 etc.

Offline HL

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Re: Using pins to hold handles / scales on full tangs.
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2008, 02:09:02 AM »
Other than going with stabilized wood or synthetic, if you want wood, I would go with persimmon or a fruit wood of any type. Persimmon and fruit woods are very dense and have been used in the old days for tool handles, ie: hammer, hand axe, etc. along with ash and hickory.

Although, my personal preference for knife handles is mesquite root.