Synthetic stock bedding/contact

[usherj]

I've been getting groups with a consistent flyer to the left, opening the group to over 2 inches. This happens with both 210 (Fed) and 225 (Rem)gr factory loads. It isn't always the last shot, and it occurs even when allowing the barrel to cool five mintues between shots. I rest the forend at the same location each shot, and my fingers aren't touching the barrel. The dollar bill test has shown more more contact along the right side, ahead of the chamber and contact pads, than on the right. This condition remains after removing and replacing the action from the stock. Has anyone had this problem? If so, has anyone relieved the contact area and had improvement? I'm reluctant to modify the stock in case I have to send it back. 

[Power167]

I've been getting groups with a consistent flyer to the left, opening the group to over 2 inches. This happens with both 210 (Fed) and 225 (Rem)gr factory loads. It isn't always the last shot, and it occurs even when allowing the barrel to cool five mintues between shots. I rest the forend at the same location each shot, and my fingers aren't touching the barrel. The dollar bill test has shown more more contact along the right side, ahead of the chamber and contact pads, than on the right. This condition remains after removing and replacing the action from the stock. Has anyone had this problem? If so, has anyone relieved the contact area and had improvement? I'm reluctant to modify the stock in case I have to send it back. 

What caliber are you using?  Did you break in the barrel properly? Is it possible you've developed a flinch? 

[usherj]

It's in 338 Win Mag and I used the same break in procedure as I did with my Hunter in 6.5 x 55 (Cleaning every 10 shots). The groups were very consistent (flier precisely to left) and shooting it isn't painful, so I'm confident I'm not flinching. I since installed the barreled action into the wood stock from the Hunter (fully free floating) and the groups improved, so I removed the 2 contact pads ahead of the chamber and any tight spots ahead of that. It shot best with the 210s, so I will work on handloads for them. Hopefully, the problem is solved. Thanks

[usherj]

An update to my last post. I fully free floated the barrel and the problem is now gone. Before doing so, I was getting 1.5 to 2 inch groups from Rem 225 core lokts, now I can get .75 inch groups from them and handloads with the 210 partitions. I'm happy now. Don't know why the synthetic stocks have the contact points. Maybe they test fire the barreled action and then fit the stock?? Anyway, problem solved.

[Old English]

Thanks for taking the time to post your results. I for one hate these threads that start with a question and we never see the resolution. I am glad your rifle shoots well now. How bad does that sucker kick? I am thinking I may need a larger caliber in the future, thinking is an expensive pastime of course.

[usherj]

I hope my experience can help save someone some anxiety and the hassle of sending it back when there may be an easy fix. I'm on the small side (160#) and the recoil doesn't bother me, as long as I limit my range sessions to about 15 rounds. I did put on a limb saver pad. I had a Mossberg 695 that was far worse when shooting Remington Ultra Core Lokt Bonded (?) slugs. It made my bones and teeth ache after a few shots. I think the stock design of the Tikka helps alot. I have found that shooting with people firing on either side has helped me get mentally adjusted over time to avoid flinching. I also realized that getting used to this rifle has helped me shoot other ones much better. I think that's enough justification for getting one! 

[Minnesota1]

What did you do to free float the barrel?  Did you sand it down?  Dremmel it down? How did it look after you did that?  Did you actually notice any bumps in the synthetic stock that caused the touching?

Thanks,

Bob

[usherj]

With the gun assembled, I applied masking tape on the top edges of the stock along the barrel. Then I used a pencil to scribe along both sides of the barrel. When I took the barreled action out, I had a guide against which to hand sand with 150 grit sand paper, being sure to use the line as a reference to keep the gap even. When done I could slide a folded dollar bill the full length of the barrel. Doing it this way made the job neat and uniform. Keep the dremel away from this job, except to remove the two contact nodes. The gap along the chamber area is barely noticeable. When I first got it, it looked like the molding was a little off center, resulting in more contact and pressure along the right side of the barrel. When I first shot the gun after bore sighting, the shots were far left. That should have been a big clue for me.  It shoots fine now, like you would expect