New member accuracy experiment

[jmayton]

I'm new to this forum, but have had a Handi in .223 for several years now.  It has become my go-to gun over an AR, AK semi-auto, Savage 30-06, and Mosin Nagant...even for feral hogs.  It's always shot decent (2moa), but is better (1.25moa) once I got some decent handloads.  However, I'm trying to get it sub moa just for my own obsession with accuracy.  In the field, it shoots as well as any hunting rifle I've ever shot and much better than most.  So here's what I've done so far: sanded the forend in front of the barrel lug, and instead of an o-ring, I cut a small piece off of a bicycle inner tube, cut a small hole in it and placed it around the lug, reinstalled the forend, snugged up the screw...instant free-float!  Now what I'm wondering is what happens if I move the rubber back and forth behind the lug, instead of around it?  Would it help tune the barrel?  I get to try it out this afternoon with my handi and a .243 handi that my brother-in-law just bought.  Should be interesting.  I'll post the results as soon as I can.

[McLernon]

My own opinion, as a result of making allot of mods to my Handi's, is that it is not so much a matter of conventional barrel dynamics as it is the stiffness of the  action lock-up and avoiding movement of the fore-end. I am convinced that the fore-end should be bedded in front of and behind the lug and then the screw done up with the same torque every time it has been removed. The latch and lug mating surface should mate-up right across the lug width so that the force from the pressure is in the center of the lug. The rifle should shoot fine with the fore-end off and the rifle supported under the hinge pin. If it does then bedding should be done. If it doesn't other mods should be contemplated per the FAQ's.

Best of luck J with your Handi.

Mc

[jmayton]

Well, it seems as though the rubber shim had little effect.  I fired the rifle wit and without the fore-end with little or no change in group size or poi.  However after 5 groups of 1.25 - 1.75 moa I got one sub moa group.  I felt my handi was shooting a bit better than normal because the wind was whipping aroud pretty good.

As for my brother-in-law's .243, the action would open on about 75% of the shots we fired.  So this is something that most certainly needs to be taken care of.  Btw, it only shot about 2moa at the best.

[quickdtoo]

Read the FAQs and the Handi Basics 101, new Handi  pop opens are easily cured 99% of the time, usually caused by operator error and not reading the owner's manual,  if that doesn't work, send it in for repair. 

Tim

[just bill]

You really can not have "barrel tuning" and "free floating" at the same time.

You sanded and floated.  The washer is just a vibration isolator.  Tuning would be adding upward pressure, usually at the end of the forearm.  This can be foam inserts (upward & vibration combined), expoxy, a screw that lifts etc.  Accuracy is tested along the way hence "tuned" and when the ideal amount of upward pressure is reached it's noted.  The old quick test was to fold up business cards and stick them in the end.

I have done my Handi both ways and prefer floated/sanded with O ring.  It's more consistent through season humidity changes, first shot p.o.i. , off shooting sticks and while using the sling in the Hasty position for off hand.  While not a true complete free float its as good as it gets on break actions.  A pure bench paper shooter may well prefer tuned as he can adjust point of impact changes as needed more readily.

If you want to "tune" more accuracy still....................look into adjusting, epoxy bedding your lock up / forearm shoe to the action.........along with a trigger job if needed............maybe touch up the crown if needed.

[LaOtto222]

I have found the the base of the barrel lug bottoms out on the fore end. When the screw is tightened it captures the fore end between the screw and the base (the part welded to the frame) of the lug. I am not sure if this is by design or even if it is in all cases. With my barrels and laminated fore ends, it is the case. This puts all of the pressure at the barrel lug. By putting an O-ring on, it pulls the fore end away from the barrel lug as well as puts less pressure on this area. I have found that by pillar bedding the fore end, I have options as to how I want to set put the fore end. It can be fully floated with the exception of the pillar, you can apply up pressure at the end of the fore end. You can partially bed or fully bed the fore end too. I think it is important to have some pressure between the fore end and the frame, this makes the barrel open with a little resistance. A pillar helps maintain this pressure. Wood over time will compress causing the pressure points to change. Of course there is never the same result for two different situations. You still have to experiment to find what works best.

[jmayton]

So what I'm gathering from all of this is that each rifle is a bit different and thus there are different paths to the holy grail of accuracy.  Thanks for the input.  I'll keep tinkering.  I should be ecstatic that a rifle that has cost me $365 (rifle, scope, rings) will shoot just over 1moa all day long.  But, I still think I can squeeze a bit more out of it.

[McLernon]

Good stuff J

Mc