Ejector Issues 39A

[HuntAway]

I have a Marlin 39A .22 cal that is having ejector issues. Out of a box of 50, I'll get 5-8 that won't eject. Any thoughts on the issue.

[Fullchoke]

Well, I hesitate to ask,but is it ejection issues (spent shell won't clear the action) or extraction issues (spent shell won't withdraw from the chamber)?

Dave

[gunnut69]

The ejector in a 39a is fairly straightforward. If the hull is retained by the extractors until it impacts the ejector it usually works well. Bet you've got extractor issues, maybe a dinged chamber or a rough one.. Broken or dull hook or weak spring action can also impact the system.. Below is a link to a parts diagram.


http://stevespages.com/ipb-marlin-39a.html

[HuntAway]

Well, I hesitate to ask,but is it ejection issues (spent shell won't clear the action) or extraction issues (spent shell won't withdraw from the chamber)?

Dave

It's an extractor issue, where as the casing stays in the chamber. It doesn't happen all the time but enough to be a pain. The casings come out easy enough with a jelwers screwdriver. And they are usually half way out when levered.

[Fullchoke]

I bought a new Marlin about five years back that did the same thing. As gunnut69 points out, it could be a chamber problem. Or it could be the extractor. Not to bore you with details, but I'd check the extractor first.

It is spring steel, so be careful tweaking it. The edge of the extractor that grasps the cartridge needs to be sharp. You can sharpen it yourself, but it's tedious work as the extractor should be removed from the bolt. File a bit, reassemble, test, maybe file some more. You don't want to get carried away with your filing or bending. New extractors are fairly inexpensive. But a replacement would have to be tuned also. And shipping and the wait for a replacement is no fun.

Gunnut69 can probably explain this better; he is a trained gunsmith. I'm just a tinkerer

 

[HuntAway]

Thanks Fullchoke.

[gunnut69]

First check the ejector and be certain it moves OK and you can feel the spring. Its shown on the diagram.. They sometimes break the spring and work a bit but spotty.. It's been a while since the last was here but break down the gun. Unscrew the take down screw and separate the top/bottom. Opening the lever moves the bolt back and allows its removal. The ejector should have a definite spring action. Might need detail cleaning. The chamber should be inspected for a ding in the edge where the firing pin crushes the rim. If snapped with no round chambered some rim fires will strike the chamber edge with enough force peen a little bit of metal into the chamber. This will be surrounded by the brass of the case when it fires and create excessive drag on the ejection cycle. I do it this way to get the easy to fix problems first. If the ejector is nicely sprung and the chamber has no burr and there is no rust present in the chamber, check the extractor. slip an unfired round under the hook with the bolt out of the rifle. It should be held in place. If not is the extractor dull, chipped? The shank is a spring and can be bent some... be very careful.. Some just break. If there's too much clearance between the bolt face and the extractor hook something is wrong. It may have been worked on by someone who would have been better of keep their hands off. If simply dull they can sometimes be sharpened from the front and sometimes the inside face can be sharpened to enhance it's hooking power but these usually end up failures or at best partial successes. I usually order a new one as they are easily available and this is a really nice rifle that deserves the fix. I've one of my own that I have $15 in. It is a 1951 version and when I was having trouble seeing even with a telescope the receiver sight on it worked like a charm. To reiterate, check and clean the ejector paying attention to the spring that powers it. Check for chamber damage/rust/pits.. Check extractor function/clearances and tension. Fix or replace.. This is something the DIY'r can do and if problems occur parts are fairly easy to get..

[HuntAway]

Thanks for all that info Gunnut69. Much appreciated.

[HuntAway]

Gunnut69,

I have the bolt out and a shell on the bolt face. The extractor looks like it is high on the rim. Shouldn't be in the center of the shell rim? If the bolt face was a clock the extractor is at about the 10 o'clock position on the shell rim. Should it be at the nine o'clock position?

[gunnut69]

The positioning is not too relevant as long as the round is completely on the bolts face. I really don't remember where the extractor is on the face of the bolt. It should hold the rim fairly tightly but not such that any force is required to insert it. The extractor tension is less on a 22 than for instance the 1911 colt. No rimfire round should be subjected to a lot of pressure on the rim, just ain't healthy! On the bolt face at about 3 o'clock is the slot for the ejector to pass thru. Does the ejector Work OK and feel spring loaded?  The extractors main task is to pull the empty(or unfired) round from the chamber. It has to hold it against the bolt face long enough for the ejector to come through it's slot and impact the rear of the round pivoting it clear of the extractor and out of the port. I did have one come in the shop a long long time ago that had so much gunk and shavings jammed under the extractor that it no longer functioned correctly. Removal and cleaning solved the problem. If the extractor is still springy and the hook long enough and sharp enough all should be well. Be sure to check the ejectors function also.

[HuntAway]

Will do. Thanks again.