Casting bullets for the Beginner (Me) What am I doing wrong?

[Roy Cobb]

I decided that I wanted to get into this cast bullet stuff (For the fun of it)
I bought two molds Both "Lee" I got the one to cast bullets for my C&B Revolvers, and the other one is for BPCR their new 459-500-3R
I got a Lee PRO4 pot, and a couple other casting toys, now for the questions, the first time I tried to cast anything I followed the instructions to the letter and everything that fell out of the mold for the C&BP were wrinkled and funny looking except two......

as for the Rifle Bullet well I tried a few and danged if they didn't do the same, tonight I turned the heat way up and stuck the rifle mold in the melt for a few minutes, I was able to cast a few blue ones but at least they weren't all wrinkled......
What am I doing wrong?

[Robert]

Once you get production going, if you dont stop inbetween pours, dump one out and pour again right away...this shouldnt be necessary.  Just as soon as you see the sprue set up, dump it out and immediately pour another.  If you stop for any reason, put it back on the hot plate.

[Robert]

Is your name really Roy, or is it Matthew?

[Roy Cobb]

Well it is really Ma.... Hey wait a minute you don't happen to be with the british government do you?

[HWooldridge]

Take some aerosol brake cleaner and spray the mold blocks until spotless, then light a wood match or something similar and smoke the cavities.  Start casting and work as fast as the puddle on the sprue will allow.  Sometimes it takes 20-30 bullets before the wrinkles go away.  Long rifle bullets are harder to cast.

[Cheyenne Ranger]

Any time I have a new mold it, too, has wrinkled bullets at first.  I use the Midway mold release (Drop Out?).  I "think" that oil gets impregnated in the metal and the mold release keeps it from ruining bullets.  After a time the mold release will wear off.  By then the oil is gone.  The mold release will wash off with alcohol if need be.
Don't know if this is true but works for me.  

And never spray the mold release on a warm mold--it will dry quick and give a rough finish to the bullets.  Better to spray a cold mold and let it dry for an hour or two.  

Check over on the casting forum for other tid-bits of info:
http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewforum.php?f=45

[Roy Cobb]

I would like to thank everyone who put in anything here but I have found that if I set the Pot on 8.5 or thereabouts and set the mold in the melt until the lead falls off it when I remove it from the pot I can cast like the dickens

I made up a bunch of little bullets for the C&B and about 25 of the bigguns for my sharps will try them out first chance I get

I reckon I will crisco the C&Bs and use my special lube concoction on the Sharps bullets......

[Pigeonroost Slim]

Roy Cob:

Like another Pard done said, some new molds are just wrinkely at first adn need some extra help.  I tend to really go nuts in scrubbing up a new mold.  I use detergent adn water rinse, coleman fuel, and such and I smoke the cavities or use the aerosol mold release.  I have smoked some molds several times to get them to drop.  Beyond that ya need to let the heat do the work.  I love frosty boolits and I know I'm getting my best foolits when the spru stays molten for several seconds before freezing.  That give time for the air to get out and ya can even gently tap a mold or vibrate it to help.  Your 4" pot frop may hnder your C&B pour as teh alloy is losing a lot of heat in that drop.  Use wood block under the pour spout to lessen the distance and also let the lead drop toward onside of the spru opening jest a bit.  Let the HEAT do teh work for ya!

[Roy Cobb]

Hey slim I hold the mold right up at the spout to pour, I can't imagine what would need all that space to pour, Cannon balls?

I don't think the pot holds enough lead for those  :wink:

Anyway I am getting really good bullets once the molds get hot enough

I am working up the nerve to go ahead and get one of those PRS specials

[Pigeonroost Slim]

If yer shoot'n .45 Colt, my boolit is likely the easiest one to cast you will ever see and do they ever cast up fast!  In .44, Mav's is jest as EZ.

That 4" clearance is fer casting fishing sinkers fer the deep sea.  For a 6 cavity mold you will need to use an elevated rest to slide the mold on; just too heavy to free style it.

Heat is the key, let the heat do the work!

I hope you can get a PRS mold and a set of handles.

Regards;

prs

[Roy Cobb]

I shoot 45 Colt and as yet I do not have a mold for that, Like I said I just started this stuff, I have been reloading for years but this bullet casting stuff is new. I will have to find a place to get more wheelweights!

[T W]

MAY I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you do not put the mould into the melt to heat it up. This is NOT A GOOD IDEA. Set the mould on the top of the pot while it heats the melt and it will heat the mould at the same time. You will still have to cast several bullets before you get good bullets out of the mould. If you do not want to do that, then I suggest you use a hotplate or such to heat the mould before you start to cast.
Wrinkled bullets tell you the mould is too COLD. Frosted bullets tell you the mould is TOO HOT.
The blue color is caused by the tin in the melt and the melt is too hot.