This may ba a stupid question.

[DalesCarpentry]

I want to buy a Mueller 8.5-25×44AO Tactical scope to put on my 243   24 inch bull barrel. Here is the question if I bought 2 sets of quick release rings would it be possible to move this scope from my 243 to my 204   24 inch fluted bull barrel and have it hold zero for both. They have similar trajectories so I got to thinking it might be possible to use one scope for both barrels. On one hand I think it might work but on the other I feel like it would not. Has anyone out there tried this? Thanks Dale

[quickdtoo]

It will work if you can remember the different settings of the scope on each rifle, they aren't gonna be the same, you'll have to sight in with it mounted on each barrel, then remember how many clicks you had to adjust it to sight in the for other barrel. The chances of them being the same are nil due to barrel/mount differences, not just chambering differences.

Tim

[cwlongshot]

I would say just swapping one to the other..no. It will not likely remain sighted in. Every barrel is different.

 I have had good luck with a collimator.

 Check both barrels (W/collimator)and record findings, swap scopes and reset adjustments to you findings for that barrel. Even this will not be dead on, but will definitely save ammo. You'll be on the paper easily.

 CW

[DalesCarpentry]

I kind of thought that. Would quick release rings be the thing to use? If so does anyone know of some inexpensive ones?

[quickdtoo]

Leupold QRWs are said to be very repeatable by those that have used them, to within ¼"-½" of the original zero after removing and reinstalling. That's not taking into consideration the scope being changed between swapping and how well the scope tracks and it's repeatability, although the Mueller Eraticator has a good reputation for that.

Tim

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0015449856

[DalesCarpentry]

I guess if I were to buy 2 sets of rings that would cost about $100.00 I would probably be better off buying 2 scopes instead.

[Mac11700]

I've done this but with different calibers...No...it isn't possible to hold the same zero with a totally different barrel/caliber...As Quick has already said...you just have to have the scope zeroed then what I do is to write down the changes so I can easily go back to the first setting..One thing to remember when moving the scope... move it completely forward in the base each time before tightening it down..you want it setting in the same place as what you had it zeroed in...You will have movement for & aft with the rings in the base...just slid the rings forward so they touch..then set your scope in them...If one base is a little snug...take a small flat file and very lightly enlarge the slot of the base on one side..It shouldn't take much if both bases are the same..These are cheaper and what I am using on my Elites..I bought the regular scope rings at first...now I am going to convert them..http://www.durasight.com/z2_alloy/quick_scope_rings.html they are a bit cheaper than the Leupolds and are pretty good...Warne makes a real good set of quick release rings as well...and they really guarantee they return to zero with removal...http://web.mac.com/warnemounts/iWeb/Warne%20Scope%20Mounts/Quick%20Detach.html..http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/productview?saleitemid=930489&t=11082005

For your case using 2 different calibers...it is a bit confusing to do what your wanting to do..and it is always easier to have 2 scopes already set up and ready to go...But...if money is tight and if your rifles are consistent and your scope repeatable..it is very doable...

Mac

[DalesCarpentry]

Thanks Quick and Mac. I may give this some thought.

[PHATINJUN]

If it were me I would put a cheap 3-9 tasco scope on one of them til I could afford a better scope as you are just asking for trouble now not only do you not have just one scope that may be lesser but you will probly have 2 guns that won't hit a lick when you need it most. Even reloading your own ammo is to expensive to have to sight in all the time thats if you even get the time to sight in when you could be huntin but if your just shootin paper at least it gives you some thing to do other than just make little bitty groups all the time. Kurt

[greg916]

Dale, count the clicks of adjustment your scope has, then center it, horizontally and vertically. Sight it in for the first barrel, record the settings, center the adjustments again, and do the same for the other barrel. Do not loosen the rings from the scope tube once you set them. When you switch between the different barrels, make sure to mount the scope in the same slots of the base every time you switch.

When you switch barrels and mount the scope, center the adjustment, then move the adjustments to the settings for that barrel. You will be sighted in.

I was taught this back in the mid 1970,s while training as a PMI at the University of Science, Music, and Culture ( USMC). They saw fit to issue us one scope and several rifles, go figure!!

[quickdtoo]

There's an easier method to mechanically center the reticle in a scope and it works very well with Mueller scopes.

Tim

http://www2.leupold.com/resources/MyInfo81/Answerbook/Answers/668.aspx

Centering of a scope's adjustment dials
The elevation and windage adjustments of a scope are easily centered. Place a small mirror against the objective end of the scope. That would be the end farthest from your eye as you look through the scope. Make certain that the mirror is large enough to cover the entire objective. It must also be flat against the objective. With the scope's power selector ring set at the lowest magnification, look through the eyepiece as you would while aiming at a target. If the scope's windage and elevation adjustments are off center, you will see two images of the reticle (cross-hair). To reach the center of the adjustment range, simply turn the elevation and windage dials until you see only one image of the reticle.

[greg916]

Quick, that sounds like a good idea, had never heard of it before. Definitely easier than counting a whole bunch of clicks!!

Dale, I was using weaver mounts and a Simmons shotgun scope switching between a slug gun and a 45/70.  You can buy large knobs for the weaver rings that you can tighten by hand, or I used a quarter.

What Mac said about repeatability.  Fire a group, move 4 clicks to the left, fire a group, move 4 clicks down, fire a group, move 4 clicks right, fire a group, move 4 clicks up and fire a group. the last group should overlap the first. If it doesn't, scope swapping will not work. You do not have to fire all five groups, just the first and last, but all five will tell you how accurate your scope adjustments are.

[bluebayou]

My question to you is:  why do you want 2 sets of rings?  You need one set of rings and 2 sets of bases.  The point of the Picatinny system of bases is that they are a standard set of dimensions.  There is not a Weaver standard.  The distance between two sets of bases on two rifles will be different.  If a Picatinny rail is used then you could swap no problems (except bolt handle maybe). 

Hmmm, maybe if you put 3 rings on the scope........the ring at the ocular end would be the consistent mount point and then the rings on the objective end could fit on different bases.....but then you have to compromise eye relief.

I thought about the same solution at one point because I don't have a lot of money.  I bought a used Simmons Whitetail Classic for $35 instead of swapping the Leupold between 2 rifles.  TANSTAAFL

[cwlongshot]

 All of these ideas will work, but why not take advantage of modern conveinces. A collimator is a VERY worth while item if your swapping scopes alot.

 T/C has had a swappable base & ring for years. I used them along with a collimator and had excellent, repeatable results.

 Oh and guys......, It to is WAY EASIER then counting all those clicks!!!

 EXCELLENT tip about pushing the scope all the way forward!! Consistancy is key!

CW

[DalesCarpentry]

There's an easier method to mechanically center the reticle in a scope and it works very well with Mueller scopes.

Tim

http://www2.leupold.com/resources/MyInfo81/Answerbook/Answers/668.aspx

Centering of a scope's adjustment dials
The elevation and windage adjustments of a scope are easily centered. Place a small mirror against the objective end of the scope. That would be the end farthest from your eye as you look through the scope. Make certain that the mirror is large enough to cover the entire objective. It must also be flat against the objective. With the scope's power selector ring set at the lowest magnification, look through the eyepiece as you would while aiming at a target. If the scope's windage and elevation adjustments are off center, you will see two images of the reticle (cross-hair). To reach the center of the adjustment range, simply turn the elevation and windage dials until you see only one image of the reticle.

Tim that really sounds like a great idea but if you were to put the mirror tight against the objective lens wouldn't that block all the light entering the scope and you would just see black? Just wondering.

[quickdtoo]

Take a look at different mirrors, you'll notice the glass is thicker on some, those work better, or you can place a piece of glass or clear plexi on the mirror to add thickness to allow more light to enter the objective lense. This trick doesn't work on all scopes, but I've used it on many since I learned about it 3yrs ago, works fine on most. You may have to experiment a little with light angles to get it just right.

Tim

[DalesCarpentry]

Tim I just thought of this since I posted last on this subject. If you use a mirror and hold it tight against the objective lens then the light that enters comes from the eye piece and reflects off the mirror.

[quickdtoo]

No, it comes thru the glass at the surface of the mirror between the reflective coating on the back of the mirror glass, that's why thicker mirrors work best.

Tim

[DalesCarpentry]

Well guys I don't think I will be switching scopes. I think it would be more trouble than it would be worth. I just traded my 450 Marlin barrel for a set of Ultra Varmint stocks and some money. I also have a buyer for the synthetic stocks I have on it now so between the deals I am about half way to the money I need for the Meuller 8.5x25x44 scope that I want to put on the 243 bull barrel. I will just have to live with the Bushnell banner 6x24x40 that is on my 204 fluted barre. Given time I will probably put the same one on it.