Author Topic: And here's my Coehorn (Read 2433 times)

rusty barrels · « **on:** June 10, 2007, 09:05:24 AM »

I thought while I'm at it I would post a picture of my so called full scale Coehorn. I also want to thank everybody who helped me build it and your advice ( you know who are ). And to some of those fellas I just couldn't cover that pretty wood, maybe if it ever gets beat up I will.

Rickk · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2007, 09:33:23 AM »

I think it is time to light a fuse or two ?

Div Arty · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2007, 09:57:16 AM »

Nice Job!! Stick a piece of almn. foil on that pretty wood when you fire and you'll never have to paint it.

Div Arty

GAWI · « **Reply #3 on:** June 10, 2007, 10:56:54 AM »

I have a question that may sound dumb, but how do you sight. I mean a cannon has a elevation screw, what does a mortar use? Gary

jeeper1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 10, 2007, 11:02:01 AM »

S.W.A.G.s and practice, lots of practice.

intoodeep · « **Reply #5 on:** June 10, 2007, 11:14:46 AM »

Quote from: GAWI on June 10, 2007, 10:56:54 AM

I have a question that may sound dumb, but how do you sight. I mean a cannon has a elevation screw, what does a mortar use? Gary

GAWI,

Not a dumb question. Mortars were set at a 45 degree angle. The distance was adjusted by increasing or decreasing the powder charge.

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 10, 2007, 11:49:42 AM »

Real Nice work, Rusty B. Great looking piece of lumber what type is it?

rusty barrels · « **Reply #7 on:** June 10, 2007, 12:17:46 PM »

The wood is laminated 2" white oak, now to find a place to make smoke and noise.

intoodeep · « **Reply #8 on:** June 10, 2007, 12:28:32 PM »

rusty barrels,

When you get a chance could you post a side profile??

Rickk · « **Reply #9 on:** June 10, 2007, 01:00:18 PM »

Be aware when you search for a place to shoot that due to the lack of a subchamber you will have issues keeping the range under 100 yards.

A 200 yard or more range would be nice.

rusty barrels · « **Reply #10 on:** June 10, 2007, 02:17:28 PM »

Here's another view as requested

Rickk · « **Reply #11 on:** June 10, 2007, 02:46:44 PM »

How did you round then ends? Chisel and hammer, or some secret method that isn't so time consuming?

rusty barrels · « **Reply #12 on:** June 10, 2007, 04:49:35 PM »

Actually Rickk it was the secret method, no hammer or chisel at all. It required a skill saw, router, small disc sander,and a rasp file. First plot out the outline then cut 45 degrees outside the apex with the skill saw. Next rout the steps on top and the ends.With the small sander and file, finish the radius. It did turn out better than I hoped and it took about four hours.

radio2 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 10, 2007, 05:19:08 PM »

Nice mortar, you should be proud!

intoodeep · « **Reply #14 on:** June 11, 2007, 03:19:49 AM »

rusty barrels,

Thanks for the side profile. It looks real good.

rampa room artillery · « **Reply #15 on:** June 11, 2007, 01:19:50 PM »

Hello, I am having a 24 lb coehorn made right now i cant wait to get the pics out here on the site. 5.82 cal. i will be shooting in the NSSA with my team.

rick

lance · « **Reply #16 on:** June 11, 2007, 04:48:38 PM »

very nice mortar, like the wood too. not every base has to be painted. here's a little something i do to protect things. cut a piece of leather that covers from the back of the base,to mid way of the tube. cut a half circle same size as tube. protection, plus leather looks old timey, and can be rolled up.

Spuddy · « **Reply #17 on:** June 12, 2007, 07:24:56 AM »

Nice Mortar. I am still waiting for mine. I have been reading some posts regarding what to use for wads. It was suggested to me that I could use the green foam stuff that flower shops use to stick flowers into. What do you guys think?

Rickk · « **Reply #18 on:** June 12, 2007, 09:20:16 AM »

In Hern mortar, 3.6 ounces of 1F with a couple of 1/8 inch thick, baking soda imprgnated coorogated cardboard disks on top of the powder bag is all you need.

The cardboard doesn't weigh much but it does make a difference. Without it you will get quite a bit of variability from shot to shot. With it there will be a more consistantly loud boom.

The cardboard won't go far, you will find it about 10 feet in front of the gun.

Make sure you clearly mark the end of the powder bag that has the cardboard in iit. I use spraypaint myself.

Spuddy · « **Reply #19 on:** June 12, 2007, 09:44:25 AM »

OK here comes the newbee question. The cardboard disks go in the foil bag of powder? Mine is a golf ball mortar. What is the easiest way to cut the cardboard to the correct size?

Rickk · « **Reply #20 on:** June 12, 2007, 12:48:59 PM »

If you do not have a sub-chamber, put the powder into a plastic bag, then put the plastic bag into the foil and load the cardboard inside the foil on top of the powder.

If you have a sub-chamber, I am not 100% sure what you should do. I have thoughts, but no experience. I will therefore defer to those that have been there.

Spuddy · « **Reply #21 on:** June 12, 2007, 04:06:41 PM »

Thanks Rickk,
I have not received my mortar yet, so I do not know if it has a sub-chamber. It is the 1/2 scale Coehorn that Missouri cannon works sells.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #22 on:** June 12, 2007, 04:39:56 PM »

Quote from: Spuddy on June 12, 2007, 09:44:25 AM

....
Mine is a golf ball mortar. What is the easiest way to cut the cardboard to the correct size?

If it were me ... hmmmmm ... (I do have a bunch in golf ball caliber) ... I'd cut a piece of tubing to cut the cardboard as would a punch. Stay tuned.

Rickk · « **Reply #23 on:** June 12, 2007, 04:44:54 PM »

For cutting mine, I bought a 2 1/4 inch hole saw. I did not installl the pilot drill. I also sharpened the outside to a beveled edge coming to a point on the ID of the saw. If you try it without beveling the edge to sort of a knife edge it tears the cardboard.

Spuddy · « **Reply #24 on:** June 13, 2007, 02:25:29 AM »

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will try both.

Double D · « **Reply #25 on:** June 13, 2007, 04:21:02 AM »

Quote from: rusty barrels on June 10, 2007, 02:17:28 PM

Here's another view as requested

I am usually very quiet on this subject, but with certain guns I am not a big fan of of bases and carriages that are unpainted. It just seems so incomplete and unfinished when a fellow will go to a great deal of effort to duplicate bandings, moulding and hardware on a carriage or base then not complete that one last detail and paint the base in the appropriate color. But I also realize that its a personal choice and to each their own. Still to my eye wood finished carriages just look wrong.

This mortar is an an exception. I really like the way this one came out. The base is very attractive and looks good unpainted and I say "job well done!"

intoodeep · « **Reply #26 on:** June 13, 2007, 05:31:31 AM »

It seems that we may be converting DD to like our "furniture grade" artillery....

rusty barrels · « **Reply #27 on:** June 13, 2007, 05:57:56 AM »

Thank you DD, coming from you (ya gotta paint it guy) I consider that a big compliment. I don't look at it as furniture grade, I kinda look at it as art, like a engraved shotgun or pistol.

intoodeep · « **Reply #28 on:** June 13, 2007, 07:28:13 AM »

rusty barrels,

I call them/mine "furniture grade" because if they look nice and natural then the wife allows me to put them in the living room...

So, take no offense in my term.

rusty barrels · « **Reply #29 on:** June 13, 2007, 07:34:26 AM »

I didn't Intoodeep, your right though, it's the only way I can get them in the house too. I keep thinking about building that addition on top of my naval gun like one guy did on the forum and calling it a coffee table.