Old style contender DIY trigger Job instructions???

[triehl27]

Ok I have been all over the t/c  Site that has been mentioned (Bel...) and can't find the DIY instructions.  Could someone PLEASE post them or link to the page that has um? 

[Who Me?]

Okay, here it is.  The article refers to a Bob Milek article, but that link no longer works.

http://www.bellmtcs.com/FAQ/conttrig.htm[url]]http://www.bellmtcs.com/FAQ/conttrig.htm


I don't know how to insert the link, so if it doesn't work... just copy & paste it.

Here's a link for G2 & Encore triggers:
http://specialtypistols.ottllc.com/sp4.html[url]]http://specialtypistols.ottllc.com/sp4.html

[Who Me?]

H'mm  no-go.

[Who Me?]

Sent you a PM instead.

[tmar04]

those links don't work on my computer. anyone find these instructions,let me know. My trigger is almost 4.0 lbs!! too much for me. thanks

[Who Me?]

The reason the first link doesn't work, is that one word in the link has been censored.   If you copy this:

www.****mtcs.com/FAQ/conttrig.htm

and then substitute bell for the 4 asterisks

and then paste it into your browser, it should work.  The second link is for G2 and Encore triggers.  Copy and paste this
in your browser:

http://specialtypistols.ottllc.com/sp4.html

If these don't work, then I guess I can't get past the censorship.

[Keith L]

"If these don't work, then I guess I can't get past the censorship"

Kinda bad taste to continue to try and get past site censorship.  I recommend you quit trying.

[Who Me?]

Duly noted.  Not sure why that word is censored, but I don't really need to know.  I'll refrain from doing that again.

[Bullseye]

For the old style Contender I just buy a Trapper Spring Kit from Natchez Shooters Supply and change the trigger spring only which is easily done by looking at the exploded view in the Owners Manual.  Then adjust the sear engagement with the screw on the gun.  This has always got me into the 2 1/2 lb range with a crisp pull for $15.

[Gavinator]

For the old style Contender I just buy a Trapper Spring Kit from Natchez Shooters Supply and change the trigger spring only which is easily done by looking at the exploded view in the Owners Manual.  Then adjust the sear engagement with the screw on the gun.  This has always got me into the 2 1/2 lb range with a crisp pull for $15.

 Bullseye is right on this, the pre G2 Contender trigger can be adjusted so there's no pre-travel, what this means is that after putting in a lighter trigger return spring, honing the trigger/sear has little effect on the pull weight. But $15 seems high for one spring, for $1 I can tell you where to get it local for under $3.

[Bullseye]

$15 is for the spring kit that has the other springs, I do not remember what they are since I never use them.

I have seen many times in here where people use a spring out of a BIC pen.  That would be free if you used someone elses pen .

[skarke]

There is a trigger return spring toward the front of the trigger that you can replace with a much lighter spring, or shorten the one that's in there.  That'll take it down a bunch.  You just need enough spring to keep the trigger forward when you set the sear.  You could even hold the trigger forward when you open the frame, and not use a spring at all.  If the sear doesn't engage, the hammer won't cock.

I'm not recommending that extreme, but replacing that little spring with one from a tire valve will make a dramatic difference.  I've done this with every Contender I've ever owned.

FWIW, have a nice day.

[skarke]

Sorry Bullseye, didn't mean to restate your post 

[Madmark]

I've tried ball point pen springs and tire valve stem springs, and they do not provide enough tension to prevent "bump off"

Get the flint spring from a genuine full size Bic lighter and cut it (squarely) .010 longer than the original trigger spring. This will put you in the 1 pound ballpark and will NOT bump off. This is too light for hunting, and is for target shooting only.
After modifying the spring, set the striker and adjust the screw on the trigger in until the striker releases. Then turn the screw back out 1/2 turn. Check for safe function by cocking the striker and whacking the butt of the gun on the palm of your free hand. If the striker doesn't bump off, set the trigger overtravel screw and you're done.
Use this info at your own risk.
Using the Bic lighter for lightening a trigger, or lighting a cigarette, can be hazardous to your health.

[skarke]

The TC easy open contender has a trigger mechanism that is in many ways, unique.  Madmark is absolutely correct in that if you plan on carrying a contender in the field, an extra light trigger pull would be dangerous.  It is exactly the same reason that one wouldn't use a 2 oz Jewell in a remington deer hunting rifle.  The weight of the trigger itself will cause the sear to release if the pistol is "bumped".

That said, that doesn't mean that the EO Contender cannot be safely handled with a very light trigger return spring.  One can get complete sear engagement with the lightest of springs, in fact no spring at all.  If a spring isn't present, all one need to is hold the trigger forward when opening the action, and the sear will be properly set.  Keep pressure on the trigger upon closing the action to prevent "bump off".  Remember that the hammer isn't yet cocked, so even if the sear does fall when the action is closed, it is of no consequence, just reset it an try again.  This enables a fabulously light, consistent bench pull for punching holes in paper, or other bench work.  My bench gun is right now at 6 oz, which is with a shortened lighter spring and some careful stonework paying special attention to squareness and flatness of the sear.  This is not appropriate for field use for obvious reasons.

IMHO, there isn't any reason to limit the outstanding trigger that is part of the EO frames by using anything more than the lightest of springs, providing that all you are using the pistol (or carbine) for is benchwork.

Thanks Madmark for reminding us of the importance of field safety.

[Steve P]

Here is a copy of what I posted on another site.  Normal caveats apply. 

"If you take your contender trigger assy out of the firearm (it's understood, gun unloaded, grip off, etc etc) you can play with it for just a coupe of minutes and see that is it a relatively simple design. You can cock the striker and engage the sear. You can pull the trigger and watch it release. da da da.....

Ok, notice the trigger itself is held in place with a single pin. There is a tang, below the sear engagement, that is holding a small metal cup and the trigger return spring in place. (Play with it, watch it work.) You can drive out that pin and let your punch or whatever you are using, hold the trigger in place. Now CAREFULLY, VERY CAREFULLY, withdraw your punch while holding the trigger in place with your fingers. You want to slowly slide that trigger toward the rear of the housing, but you want a couple of your fingers above that tang to hold that metal cup and spring to keep them from flying out. THEY WILL FLY and lose themselves in your carpet if you are not careful. If you are doing this in your reloading room like I do, likely that metal cup will fall into the plethora of spent primers littering your floor. Fun search now.

Ok, you have it apart. This little spring is the one you remove coils to lighten the trigger pull. Like Smokin' said, cut off about a 1/4 coil at a time. If you have one of the newer stiffer springs, maybe even an 1/8 of a coil.

Carefully put the spring and metal cap back in the housing and put your punch in the pin hole to retain the trigger. If you have the right size punch, it will work as a temporary pin so you can try the trigger a few times. So try it! How is it? Does it return properly? Maybe you need to disassemble and take off another 1/8 or 1/4 of a coil. Try again. And again if you must, until that trigger pull is getting to your liking. If you cut too much off, the trigger will not return and your sear will not engage.

Once you get the spring short enough to lighten the pull, but still long enough to return the trigger, reassmble by driving the trigger retaining pin back in with a brass hammer. Put the trigger assy back in the gun and try it again. You can adjust it a little more by using the sear engagement screw.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out. If you lose the spring and metal cup in the carpet or within the primers all over your floor, let us know. Someone is sure to have extra parts at home from having lost their own sometime in the past."

Give it a try.  Hope this helps. 

Steve